anyone know a good mechanic?

[vdubT25newbie]

Afternoon Gents and ladies
First post on this forum so please be gentle I have an 1983 1.9 t25 autohomes which I have been doing up lot of replaced panels as you can imagine
things only done 50k from new so isn't too bad a bus really from a Saab nut that's a compliment trust me!
Thing is I need a mechanic now to help me get her ready for the mot and back on road as I have met my mechanical match
I am looking for someone to set up my brake system and help me out with setting up the 1.9 watercooled as it doesnt run too well at mo as well as advise anything else that need doing for not
I am willing to pay for the assistance

Suit an enthusiastic experienced amateur or pro
Please pm me for my details
Van is in the PO postcode near Fareham
Cheers
Ray

By the way brilliant site mods well played

[Plasticman]

hi,
got some picks you can post up
mm

[kevtherev]

The brakes are probably the simplest things on the van.
fixing them is well covered in the Haynes manual... what's wrong with your brakes?

As for not running well.. again you can eliminate the simple things, by just giving the van a service.
plugs, leads, distributor cap, rotor arm, oil.
change the air filter, oil filter and fuel filter.

VW intentionally made your van easy to maintain, so what's stopping you saving some money, and having the confidence that these simple things are done?

[vdubT25newbie]

Hi. Kev
I need to completely overhaul the braking system and although I am an enthusiastic diyer with my Saab's I don't like brake or steering
as to what the symptoms are I think I had the van sat for 6 months and then lost all the fluid topped up and its been fine since needs a bleed ? But I want someone to go over her for me to tell me exactly what else I need to do to get her through the mot as well
I also need someone to just go over the engine with me I bought her as a runner from a guy who bought the van in Sunderland and drove it down here and she was driven onto drive fine but as I say she's been sat for a bit and now is just in need of a tune but I've not worked with a push rod engine
They may have made it simple to work on but this van has been a right sod so far

[kevtherev]

I bought her as a runner from a guy who bought the van in Sunderland and drove it down here and she was driven onto drive fine

So let's be clear then, with respect to the above comment.
The brakes.. what's not working?
You lost ALL the fluid? if so did you see any evidence (puddles of fluid)
The clutch uses the same reservoir, has there been any leakage from that?

Bleeding brakes is quite simply the simplest thing that's more simple than a simpleton


Secondly why do you think it needs a tune?

[vdubT25newbie]

Hi Kev
Firstly didn't see any evidence and that's what puzzled me
only realized I had a problem when I moved her a couple of feet on the drive and found I had no brake peddle
if they use the same reservoir then that would also explain the clutch feeling heavy at the same time although she went into gear fine both 1st and reverse
the reason I am saying needs a complete overhaul on brakes is that I cant see the problem so am guessing what I have is a very small hole or perish in a pipe somewhere plus all the media could do with renewing pads and shoes etc..

regarding the engine
starts fine revs fine but wont idle (mixture?)
new plugs new leads, haven't done dizzy but looked ok haven't done air or oil filter or oil as yet is on my lists although to be fair the oil does look pretty good and the filter reasonably new was thinking that maybe this may be to do with pick up from the tank or fuel decay last time this thing ran in anger was 2012 so she has stood a fair bit and tank is low so fuel filter was on the list of to do items

but what I do also want is a mechanics advice on the bushes etc ... and the other points on the MOT I am going to need

[vdubT25newbie]

hi,
got some picks you can post up
mm

I have a few here I will try to upload them very definitely Work in progress but the beige beast is here

[URL=http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[URL=http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[url][/url]

[kevtherev]

Hi Kev
Firstly didn't see any evidence and that's what puzzled me
only realized I had a problem when I moved her a couple of feet on the drive and found I had no brake peddle
if they use the same reservoir then that would also explain the clutch feeling heavy at the same time although she went into gear fine both 1st and reverse
the reason I am saying needs a complete overhaul on brakes is that I cant see the problem so am guessing what I have is a very small hole or perish in a pipe somewhere plus all the media could do with renewing pads and shoes etc..

So did you check the fluid level in the reservoir?
have you checked the pad/shoe wear?
Let me briefly explain brakes.
Your foot presses a pedal, this energy is transferred to the pad/shoe because liquids do not compress and the liquid has nowhere to go, so it squeezes the callipers together.
Air however does compress, and that is why your pedal travels to the floor.
Simply removing the air allows the brakes to work.

If I may say, you seem keen to let other people sort this out, I'm guessing you can afford to do this, every time the van has a hiccup.
Not every little problem is a major drama.
It might just get tedious enough for you to try and sort things out for your self eventually, that's when the real love starts

regarding the engine
starts fine revs fine but wont idle (mixture?)
new plugs new leads, haven't done dizzy but looked ok haven't done air or oil filter or oil as yet is on my lists although to be fair the oil does look pretty good and the filter reasonably new was thinking that maybe this may be to do with pick up from the tank or fuel decay last time this thing ran in anger was 2012 so she has stood a fair bit and tank is low so fuel filter was on the list of to do items

Mechanics who know carburettors are few and far between these days
But a few simple checks will allow a better diagnosis.
If you have a Haynes manual there are some step by step checks to do this
If the engine starts and will run from cold then the good news is the mixture is ok at that point.
If it does not idle but responds to the accelerator, then the fault needs to be isolated.
That's where your input helps us to help you narrow it down.
By depressing the accelerator once fully BEFORE turning the key the fast idle mechanism is engaged, once the engine starts it should then idle quite fast until the acc. pedal is touched, do you start the van like this?
There is an idle speed valve on the carb, it has a black wire attached to it, when the ignition is turned on the valve should make an audible 'click'
This is the valve opening to allow the engine to idle (commonly called an anti dieseling valve ...google it)
If the cold start method does not work and the valve clicks then mr carburettor will need to be taken off and cleaned, perhaps that is when you involve the garage (any garage will clean a carb)
Anything you do to help the fuel get to the engine is a good thing...and less for the garage to do!

but what I do also want is a mechanics advice on the bushes etc ... and the other points on the MOT I am going to need

Yes, suspension checks are best made by an MOT tester
Again the haynes manual tells you all about things the MOT will test, and what visual checks you can do.

That's a fine Autohomes camper you have there, it just happens to be in my most favourite VW colour Timor Beige...like mine.

PS My apologies if this post appears blunt.

[jamesc76]

Regards the rinning problem, sounds like the fuel has gone off, get some fresh in it!