Clutch judder

[porthyt]

Morning,

Last year the Clevis pin thing that holds my clutch cable to my pedal snapped. I replaced it and the cable at the same time. For the past few months I have been getting a terrible clutch judder when I pull away from standing but only after 15mins or so of driving. It makes it pretty difficult to pull away and has jiddered so my much that it snapped a bit of my heat exchanger.

I have a 2.0cu cable operated clutch and understand that the angle of the Bowden tube/conduit is super important. Does anybody have a picture of there's so I can copy the angle as Google can't help. Also I have a small crank seal leak so it could be oil on the clutch plate but that it is a big job to rectify. Any other ideas?

Thanks a lot
Josh

[bigherb]

[porthyt]

Thanks. Any idea what size washer it needs? Went to the tool shop and they only went upto m12 which was too small.

Thanks
Josh

[bigherb]

M16

[porthyt]

Ideal thanks

[dave friday]

Also check the end of the " Bowden " cable that is welded to the torsion bar tube ( mine had snapped )
Check the engine and gearbox mounts !

[CovKid]

Check your engine mounts and gearbox mount too.

[California Dreamin]

Dito ^^^^^ mounts....however, oil on the clutch is indicative of clutch judder.

Martin

[porthyt]

Dave Friday: not sure which bit is welded on? Mine is just a cable that runs through a bracket to the clutch arm thing.

[porthyt]

How do I check mounts? They're there - is it a case of replacing anyways?

[dave friday]

If you can get the bend in the inner and outer cable your ok.
If you can't make the bend look at how the outer is fixed at the opposite end to the gearbox!

[CovKid]

Difficult to check engine mounts as they tend to part company and you can only really see it if you put a jack under the engine and lift it slightly. Its generally much worse in reverse up a slight incline if they're expired mounts. Also between gear changes when you touch the accelerator. The flexing is noteable. Similar with gearbox mount as it doesn't really show itself until its removed and you exert some twist on it yourself. Well, put it this way, this is the second time I've replaced engine mounts in five years. New set is Meyle brand and got all four for £21 from ebay.

Stick with the clutch stuff for now. The other thing that causes clutch judder, other than that already mentioned, is one of the bolts between engine and gearbox loose or adrift. When operating the clutch It pushes the gearbox and engine apart slightly in that area, meaning the clutch doesn't make contact squarely = judder. Thats easily checked with a couple of spanners.

[porthyt]

Thanks covkid. Will check that stuff this week.

[CovKid]

You can rule out those four bolts easy enough. They're all 17mm heads - two at the back of the engine bay, and two underneath. If they're all nipped up tight, it won't be that. If you have to investigate clutch itself (seems a daunting task), PM me and I'll talk you through it. Done hundreds in 30 years on Beetles, bays and wedges. The Haynes wasn't written by a VW nut and is completely wrong in some places. Replaced my clutch entirely a week or so ago - 36 minutes - on my own. With the Haynes, anything up to two hours or even six. Mind you, if flywheel seal is crappola and theres oil in there, Haynes is the only route.