T25 1.9 petrol oil pressure problems

[Ginojasper]

So is it two blue I need?

[kevtherev]

Please read the information given

[Ginojasper]

Thank you ordered!
The van going in on Friday for pressure check firstly new switches correct oil and a filter.
See how we go from there

[kevtherev]

Post up the results on here
We love stuff like that.

Must have a cold tickover value
Must have a Hot tick over & must have a hot high rpm value.
Would be nice to get the actual rpm please.

[ajsimmo]

Had a read through, and spotted a few "anomalies" in the info given!
The main figure you need to know is the hot oil pressure (as specified by VW) should be a minimum of 2 bar @ 2000rpm. (Please bear in mind that many WBX engines don't quite achieve this, maybe making 1.5 bar, but continue to give good service for years.) At hot idle, you'll barely see enough pressure to move the gauge, certainly not 1 bar!
The tappet setting of 2 turns in is still the official setting, but experience and sound mechanical theorising suggests 1.5 turns gives better results on worn engines. (It is not carved in stone and some mechanics have other opinions... I've heard some use 1 turn, 0.5 turn or even "just touching"!) I use 1.5 turns.

When your new oil pump was fitted, what gasket was used under the plate? Some pumps come with a gasket that's far too thick, which causes a drop in pressure when the oil gets hot (explained elsewhere). The gasket must not be thicker than 0.1mm.

Also, thanks for the plug, Kev, but we don't currently have reconditioned engines on the shelf. We are currently building to order, on a bespoke basis, mainly due to many engine cases being out of spec or needing repair work. We have 3 builds ongoing at the moment, so will not be building for stock until well into the new year.

[kevtherev]

Had a read through, and spotted a few "anomalies" in the info given!
The main figure you need to know is the hot oil pressure (as specified by VW) should be a minimum of 2 bar @ 2000rpm. (Please bear in mind that many WBX engines don't quite achieve this, maybe making 1.5 bar, but continue to give good service for years.) At hot idle, you'll barely see enough pressure to move the gauge, certainly not 1 bar!
The tappet setting of 2 turns in is still the official setting, but experience and sound mechanical theorising suggests 1.5 turns gives better results on worn engines. (It is not carved in stone and some mechanics have other opinions... I've heard some use 1 turn, 0.5 turn or even "just touching"!) I use 1.5 turns.

When your new oil pump was fitted, what gasket was used under the plate? Some pumps come with a gasket that's far too thick, which causes a drop in pressure when the oil gets hot (explained elsewhere). The gasket must not be thicker than 0.1mm.

Also, thanks for the plug, Kev, but we don't currently have reconditioned engines on the shelf. We are currently building to order, on a bespoke basis, mainly due to many engine cases being out of spec or needing repair work. We have 3 builds ongoing at the moment, so will not be building for stock until well into the new year.

yes I use 1.5 turns from zero lash, but as you say some swear by 1, I prefer the R. Atwell approach to used lifters.
Regarding the hot oil pressure, I use 20w/50 mineral, and my wet gauge indicates 1 bar+ @ hot idle, instantly goes to 2 bar on the throttle.
The figures I used were taken from one of Ians posts... is he bragging again
Sorry for the mis information on your engines

[Ginojasper]

Had the camper in the garage, for some reason they've not checked the oil pressure for me. Said they'd no tester so they put new oil in. One of the guys at the garage has a t25 and recommended the oil he uses. Halfords own 20w50 classic oil in a green tin. New filter and the lower switch changed. The one what was in was black the wrong one. He was saying top one was blanked off???
Now the engine is quiet slight tappets noise when warm.
The oil light stayed off for 20 mins or so and flickers slightly when tick over but as soon as touch throttle goes off for half a minute or so then flickers slightly again.
I know I've not had the pressure tested which has really annoyed me but there is nothing I can do about this at the min!
As the engine now sounds really quiet when first started and only slight tap when warm and the oil light seems to be struggling to show, seems that I'm getting somewhere.
Any other suggestions that could take the oil light off totally?
Gasket on pump was mentioned, could this cause the flicker
Any other suggestions would help please
Also with the top switch blanked off, does this make sense or cause problems?
I know I needed pressure test but once again I've failed and most will say you need it doing.
I'm no mechanic but with the change of quietness and only slight oil light on at tick over I'm thinking something can be done to solve this?

[Ginojasper]

Just a quick update been for a 20 mile or so drive no oil light not even on tick over
I'm sure this is enough time for low pressure to show. Maybe oil has had chance to circulate. All I've got now is a slight tappet noise when upto temperature this presumably could
be solved by adjusting

[kevtherev]

The 20w/50 oil is thicker at higher engine temps.
the light goes out because the pressure is slightly higher due to viscosity.
This ideal in hotter climates.
I personally use 15w/40 in the colder months and 20w/50 in the warmer months

VW have said in manuals that the light will flicker at low rpm working temp. (15w/40 mineral)
More so if the idle speed is not set at 900 rpm.

It is often discovered that noisy tappets and oil light flicker is just the engine informing you that an oil change is required ( 6 months or 3500 miles)
The tappet gallery needs good positive oil pressure to keep the hydraulic lifters full.
They will drain down if the engine is idle for over two weeks or used for short trips of less than 20mins
They will fill quicker when the oil is thinner.
Adjustment, although not recommended by VW should be considered if the noise becomes excessive, tappet noise comes from underneath the engine near the center
A persistent noisy lifter suggests a weak/broken return spring inside it (by noisy it really is very noisy

You were at the mercy of people who can spend your money easily because of the trust you give.
Did the oil pump really needed changing? I doubt it did,

Very disappointing that you still have no idea how healthy the engine is.

[Ginojasper]

I've just been on my first journey in the camper around Wales. 300 miles done.Before setting off I had tappets set and oil change. The oil used was halfords own classic car oil. I had no problems with the oil light and engine run smoothly.
Can't wait for the next trip

[Boneyt25]

Had a read through, and spotted a few "anomalies" in the info given!
The main figure you need to know is the hot oil pressure (as specified by VW) should be a minimum of 2 bar @ 2000rpm. (Please bear in mind that many WBX engines don't quite achieve this, maybe making 1.5 bar, but continue to give good service for years.) At hot idle, you'll barely see enough pressure to move the gauge, certainly not 1 bar!
The tappet setting of 2 turns in is still the official setting, but experience and sound mechanical theorising suggests 1.5 turns gives better results on worn engines. (It is not carved in stone and some mechanics have other opinions... I've heard some use 1 turn, 0.5 turn or even "just touching"!) I use 1.5 turns.

When your new oil pump was fitted, what gasket was used under the plate? Some pumps come with a gasket that's far too thick, which causes a drop in pressure when the oil gets hot (explained elsewhere). The gasket must not be thicker than 0.1mm.

Also, thanks for the plug, Kev, but we don't currently have reconditioned engines on the shelf. We are currently building to order, on a bespoke basis, mainly due to many engine cases being out of spec or needing repair work. We have 3 builds ongoing at the moment, so will not be building for stock until well into the new year.

yes I use 1.5 turns from zero lash, but as you say some swear by 1, I prefer the R. Atwell approach to used lifters.
Regarding the hot oil pressure, I use 20w/50 mineral, and my wet gauge indicates 1 bar+ @ hot idle, instantly goes to 2 bar on the throttle.
The figures I used were taken from one of Ians posts... is he bragging again
Sorry for the mis information on your engines

Haha! Hope this is accurate
When hot I get about 0.5bar at idle !

This is from a vdo gauge measuring from the pressure sensor , top of engine , passenger side.

When hot at high rpm I achieve 3bar from the same guage , god knows what rpm tho. Probably 5k ha

[Stesaw]

You should get about 3 bar at 3k when warm.. at least I do anyway with 15/40w oil

[Boneyt25]

I'll have to check my oil grade.
It's the halfords vintage stuff. Green tin.

Prob do a service end of summer.
Attempt tappets
Inspect/change plugs etc.

[R0B]

Halfords classic oil is 20w50.