On the early vans, the highest rated euro / torpedo fuse in the fuse box was 16 amps.
On the later blade fuse vans it is 20amp...
The wire rating needs to exceed the fuse rating.
So possibly 21 amp wires - dependent upon load.
I would check the rating of the load (heater, split charger or any other gadget).
Ensure that the fuse is a few amps above that.
And then the wire a few extra amps again.
As you may know, the purpose of the fuse is to protect the wiring - not the load.
A wire going fizz within the loom could do a lot more damage than one failed component at the end of the wire.
There are plenty of wire vendors out there.
If you are keen to match wire colours and stripes, then you could try - vehicle wiring products.
https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/
But I am sure there are many others you could use.
Just a thought - if you are fitting something like a fridge, it is often a good idea to fit a much thicker wire due to voltage losses over longer cable runs.
Despite only a 15amp fuse, I had to fit 4mm cable for the fridge to work.
All food for thought.
Fuse box multi block
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Re: Fuse box multi block
1983 Tin Top with a poorly DF and 4 speed DT box.
1987 Electrics and a DJ engine.
Maybe one day I might get it finished
1987 Electrics and a DJ engine.
Maybe one day I might get it finished
Re: Fuse box multi block
Thanks for the advice.Being a multivan it doesn’t have a built in fridge.I have a 3 way coolbox/fridge which I mainly run off gas outside the van.
I’ll up the amps on the wires as you mentioned to approx 25amps
I’ll up the amps on the wires as you mentioned to approx 25amps