OIL LIGHT>>T25 1.9 watercooled

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KOMET CREW
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OIL LIGHT>>T25 1.9 watercooled

Post by KOMET CREW »

Hello again all,,, fixed the water leak with all your help,, now got a new problem,, van was parked up for 2 days,, drove off,, 100 yds down the road and oil light started flashing and a warning beeping sound came from dash area,, this only lasted for 5 seconds max but worried the hell out of me,,,,,oil level was checked and all ok before i left,, then drove 90 miles,, 1 mile from home same thing happened but only for approx 2 seconds,,,engine is running ok,,started ok when i got home,, any suggestions much appreciated,,, Chris..... :?: :?: :?: :?: :?:

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Re: OIL LIGHT>>T25 1.9 watercooled

Post by danmetallic »

First off check wiring to the two oil pressure switches up back. Then I would also do an oil and filter change. And also get the pressure checked.


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Re: OIL LIGHT>>T25 1.9 watercooled

Post by kevtherev »

Yes, this will be a simple process of elimination.
Oil and filter first
Oil pressure switch connectors cleaned, there's two in the engine bay.
On the switch and the double connector, with two brown wires to it.
The randomness suggests a failing switch or connection, nothing more.
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Re: OIL LIGHT>>T25 1.9 watercooled

Post by Mocki »

first off, NEVER assume its an electrical fault.....
it may be working correctly .......pressure check!

however, as has been said, dirty connections, in particular, the twin white connector near the thermostat housing, cause false alarms
also look for exterior damage to the actual wires from the senders and the connectors.
if none of these show, then the senders
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KOMET CREW
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Re: OIL LIGHT>>T25 1.9 watercooled

Post by KOMET CREW »

Thanks for replies.. will check out the connection and clean etc... one other little twist to this is the fact that the temp gauge hasn't worked for a while.. a local mechanic advised when engine was up to temp bang on the dash hard.. if temp gauge comes on it proves a bad connection.. I did this.. but temp gauge didn't work.. but I'm thinking I may have disturbed a connection to the oil pressure warning light..just a thought.......I've had a new temp sensor fitted but gauge still won't work..

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Re: OIL LIGHT>>T25 1.9 watercooled

Post by kevtherev »

Well I certainly would not be listening to any more stupid advice from that person.
The gauge is easily tested.
take the connectors off the sender on the thermostat housing and join them together, or ground the red/yellow wire, the gauge should go fully off to the hot.
If it does then replace the sender, takes 20 mins.
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Re: OIL LIGHT>>T25 1.9 watercooled

Post by dbz864 »

id stick your hand up the back of the dash and LIGHTLY twiddle with the multiplug connector (when the buzzer is going off), 99% of the time its that (the connecter contacts get dodgy), rarely is it oil pressure problem, if the tappets are quite and your engine dosnt sound like a bag of "pooh" itl be an electrical fault. But as said to make you feel better get the pressure checked then you know for sure.
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Re: OIL LIGHT>>T25 1.9 watercooled

Post by KOMET CREW »

Thanks for all your help......will carry out all your recommendations..cheers Chris.....

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Re: OIL LIGHT>>T25 1.9 watercooled

Post by mbcamper »

I've recently been through the same issue with the buzzer going off!

Having being led up the garden path my a faulty mechanical gauge I purchased from eBay I finally established that my engine was fine and the high pressure oil pressure switch was faulty. I proved this by testing with a multimeter. So having replaced the switch all was fine for a couple of days and then the buzzer went off again!

I traced the wiring back to the multi plug edge connector to the instrument cluster and found that was a little tarnished. I cleaned this up very carefully with some 600 grid paper and all of a sudden the LEDs are much brighter and the buzzer of doom no longer sounds! The flexible PCB connectors on the instrument panel are however quite delicate to take care!

My issue was caused by a faulty sensor and dodgy connectors to the instrument panel, so it's worth you checking both.

When checking the oil pressure switches, you'll see that the low pressure switch is NC (normally connected when the engine is off, but open circuit once you start up the engine) and the high pressure switch is NO (normally open, but grounds when you have 0.9bar oil pressure if you have a grey switch).

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