Bostig Conversion, Ford 1.8 Zetec

[MickeTJ]

I´ve been contemplating different engineswaps because my MV engine is not that well.
leaks oil, leaks coolant, ECU preforms the "Vanagon syndrome" quite often to my delight

I have looked at the Subaru EJ22, TDI and Volvo conversion witch is quite common here in Sweden.
But every engine conversion has its pros and cons.
For it to be legal in Sweden I cant go more than 20 % increase in HP and 10 % in TQ. With the family riding in it I don´t want any hassle from the insurance company if something happens.

TDI,
Supernice but pricey if you dont have the diesel engine in the first place.

Subaru,
Nice but pricey, and is to much power.

Volvo
This conversion is legal in Sweden with a certificate, but for my bus I dont want the engine sticking up in my bed

I then found the Bostig conversion, http://www.bostig.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; witch uses a ford Zetec 2.0 L engine.
the conversion looks simple and the kit comes complete so I can do it myself without a garage. (Im a open-sky mechanic )
The problem is that the 2.0 L engine is to powerful. But I then found that the Zetec was made in a 1.8 L engine here in Europe with 105 HP.

Now to my question, has anyone here made the Bostig conversion? Do you have any other solutions to my problem?

[toomanytoys]

Hi.. you in sweden??
Instead of that ford engine... why not install the golf gti 2L engine.. using diesel parts.. easier.. readily available and more torque than the bostig... oh.. and no hassle with import duty....

[MickeTJ]

Hello Toomanytoys,

Yes Im Swedish

Is the Golf Git engine the same as 2E, AGG or the ADY?
power and torquewise it looks good.
I´ve tried to find a kit for that conversion but I cant find it.
Is there any good parts list for doing the swap?

The good thing about the Bostig Conversion is that it is complete, just follow the direction step by step and when you get to the last step its done.
Im not a professional mechanic and the most complex thing I´ve done is to change the gearbox on my Jeep Wrangler...

The thing Im most afraid of is start the project and never finish it, due to
- not have all the parts from the begging.
- Trying different, wrong parts because I don´t actually know what the part is doing.

Ive got a qoute for a shop to do the Swap and it was around 6000 Euros + the donor car.

The Bostig would be around the same shipped to Sweden 6000 E for the kit and then 500 E for a good Zetec engine.

[marlinowner]

This might be useful-

http://www.t25direct.com/115bhp-engine- ... -709-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Titus A Duxass]

You can do a 2e /AGG /ADY conversion for a lot less than 6000!

You need a copy of GaryD's conversion bible for a start (pm me your email address and I'll send you a copy).

Then you need to read this - http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Al ... e_Golf_GTI" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and the sub-forum on brickyard - http://brick-yard.co.uk/forum/t3-petrol ... rum22.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Particularly this thread - http://brick-yard.co.uk/forum/agg-wirin ... 85096.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There is loads to read.

These conversions go through the German TüV system without any need for brake upgrades, etc.

[toomanytoys]

Sorry.. hadn't been on here for a bit..

As per Titus a Duxass says..

GTi uses all the diesel install parts so much easier to come by...

Could always bring the van over here for the conversion.. have a holiday.. then go back in it when its complete....

[MickeTJ]

I have now searched and searched.
This is what I´ve come up with so far.
The AGG engine is not that hard to get, the diesel syncro parts however..
Can be sorted but goes for around 1100 euros on german ebay. But the hardest part to source is the Syncro diesel tank.
- Is there someone making these new?

Is there an adaptorplate for the petrol gearbox 2 inline 4/ diesel engines?

That would save a fortune, not having to get the tank, bellhouse and clutch.

Anyone got drawings on such a adaptor?

[toomanytoys]

Mario (MV Engineering) should have the adapter plates in stock shortly.. best quality too... allows I4 engines to be bolted to the wbx bellhousing. IIRC it may allow the engine to sit at the 15 degrees it does in the golf.. so no need for T3 sump, but you will need to make the engine mount....

Alternative might be to speak to Jason in Denmark as he may be able to offer a better deal on the Syncro TD hardware needed...

[syncroandy]

^WHS.

Plus, a 2.0l Subaru might be within your power budget ? But then you'd need all the pricey Subaru fitting stuff. I'd be interesting to see how that compares with a full set of Syncro TD fitting stuff at current prices. If you can get tank, bell, sump, bars for 1100 euro that might be a good buy. I still think a WBX sits in there better than an I4..

[AdrianC]

I'd be wary of incompatibilities between the North American Zetec and the European Zetec. They're all the same basic engine, but there's a lot of fairly fundamental detail differences, and the Bostig kit is SO plug-and-play that it's likely to trip over them.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Zeta_engine" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[HarryMann]

Good point Adrian... detail knowledge is key.

[MickeTJ]

Good point about the differences between the US and Euro Zetec. !
The thing I liked about the Bostig was that it was easy to do yourself.

I scraped the idea about the Ford engine, and have now decided to do the 2.0 AGG.

I have tried to get the dieselparts needed, but the tank is the tricky one.
A friend of mine is a CNC /CAD engineer, and I have asked him if he could help me draw a adaptorplate between the 2.0 and petrol WBX housing.
and some motor mounts for a 50* install of the AGG (since the spacing wont be the same as the diesel bellhousning ? .)

But I have some questions:

1. Do you see a problem using an adaptorplate rather than the Diesel Bellhouse?
2. Is the Diesel bellhouse longer than the petrol? If so I may use the correct thickness for the adaptorplate and use the diesel mountings.
3. Which input shaft should I use? the T3 Diesel, T3 Petrol or the AGG?

4. Do you have any other thoughts about this, If I can get this right it might be usefull for someone els!

This project need to get going soon as I started the bus today and it started to pee petrol from the hose that goes back the tank (the only one I havent changed so far.)