3 new engines and still overheating
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3 new engines and still overheating
Hi All
About 6 months ago my partner and i bought a LHD 1.9i Westfalia Joker. The engine was tired and needed new hydrolic tappets. As it was a high millager decided to by a recon engine. We had a VEGE 2.1 (DJ) put in by an experienced T25 mechanic. This had a crack in the head so was replaced. The same with the next engine. After much wrangling managed to get yet another engine fitted along with all cooling ancilaries. Now this engine runs cold when running above 40mph (prob. t.stat) and when bellow 40 starts to overheat (at which point i switch of to prevent another cracked head). VW didnt bring out the 2.1i until >7/85 and our van is <7/85. When the 2.1i was lunched the waterpipe layout was changed, poss to comp. for larger heat load. It has been suggested that i put a Corrado VR6 in-line electric waterpump that i can control from the dash. Anyone else had sim. prob. or got any ideas. Cheers, Paul
About 6 months ago my partner and i bought a LHD 1.9i Westfalia Joker. The engine was tired and needed new hydrolic tappets. As it was a high millager decided to by a recon engine. We had a VEGE 2.1 (DJ) put in by an experienced T25 mechanic. This had a crack in the head so was replaced. The same with the next engine. After much wrangling managed to get yet another engine fitted along with all cooling ancilaries. Now this engine runs cold when running above 40mph (prob. t.stat) and when bellow 40 starts to overheat (at which point i switch of to prevent another cracked head). VW didnt bring out the 2.1i until >7/85 and our van is <7/85. When the 2.1i was lunched the waterpipe layout was changed, poss to comp. for larger heat load. It has been suggested that i put a Corrado VR6 in-line electric waterpump that i can control from the dash. Anyone else had sim. prob. or got any ideas. Cheers, Paul
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new tstat fitted every time ? They don't seem to like being boiled and become erratic in their behaviour - I just had to replace the one in the Mustard Pot which failed after 11 months, during which the recon had three waterjacket seal failures (the bad batch of gaskets from e. europe - thanks GSF for that ) and full sytem flush and check would be my suggestion - as far as I know the only difference with the 2.1 is the oil cooler in the system to help acheive the necessary cooling.
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Yep new t.stat each time. All my hardwear came from GSF aswell. you could be right about the oil cooler...perhaps that is a better route to take than trying to marry up a carrado w.pump to pipes that are hard to get hold of and may well be v.diff diameter. i cant remeber why the mechanic said it wouldnt be necessary to add one when fitting. do you know how easy it would be to install as it was not standard on the 1.9? Where i might get all the bits cheap.
My biggest bugbear is i want to get on with tarting her up and cant justify it while there are mech probs
Thanks for the reply
Paul
My biggest bugbear is i want to get on with tarting her up and cant justify it while there are mech probs
Thanks for the reply
Paul
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i may have a watercooling jacket for the oil filter housin (fits inbetween oil filter and original fixing to block) and i could tel you how and where it fits on a 2.1dj but im not goin back 2 unit until tomorow morning where my pile off bits and broke bus is!!
everytime you masterbate god kills a kitten! member 1289 does this still mean owt?
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Hi Rowsly
Thanks for taking the time to look for the bits. i spoke to my mechanic yesturday and he said the reason that he did'nt instal a oil cooler is that; firstly my van is <8/85 i.e. before the 2.1i and oil cooler set up, therefore all of the cooling pipes are different. also the t.stat housing and w.pump are diff. inorder to allow water flow throught to the cooler. I'm just about to get a in-line water pump a VR6 that i'm going to hotwire to the dash and see if the increased water flow in traffic etc helps. If that doesnt work i may well be on the hunt for the later level hoses, w.pump and t.stat housing...oh and oil cooler of course.
Thanks for listening all...this has to be sorted soon...its affecting the love affair with the van
Paul
Thanks for taking the time to look for the bits. i spoke to my mechanic yesturday and he said the reason that he did'nt instal a oil cooler is that; firstly my van is <8/85 i.e. before the 2.1i and oil cooler set up, therefore all of the cooling pipes are different. also the t.stat housing and w.pump are diff. inorder to allow water flow throught to the cooler. I'm just about to get a in-line water pump a VR6 that i'm going to hotwire to the dash and see if the increased water flow in traffic etc helps. If that doesnt work i may well be on the hunt for the later level hoses, w.pump and t.stat housing...oh and oil cooler of course.
Thanks for listening all...this has to be sorted soon...its affecting the love affair with the van
Paul
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To be honest i'm not sure what coolant is in there. All i can tell you is that the mechanic doing the work has worked on T25s for since their release, has run a vdub garage for 32 years and has 2 t25s of his own.
I'm a bit gutted at the mo. cuz i thought this elect. in-line w.pump from a VR6 would answer my problems but the diameter of the inlets and outlets was only 1 - 1.5cm and would therefore restrict the waterflow too much. GRRR still i'm not giving up!
I'm a bit gutted at the mo. cuz i thought this elect. in-line w.pump from a VR6 would answer my problems but the diameter of the inlets and outlets was only 1 - 1.5cm and would therefore restrict the waterflow too much. GRRR still i'm not giving up!
2268
The thermostats which you have been fitting... are they GSF or VW?
The original should have a small bypass hole in it to allow better circulation at low rpm and some circulation below the thermostat opening temp.
When I fitted a GTi engine to my panel van, I tried a new thermostat without the hole, and found that at tickover it would get hot.. but if I picked up the revs to say 1500rpm, it ran cooler.
Next time you are out and about, try picking up the revs for a couple of mins and see if the temp guage goes down rather than up...sounds crazy I know.
As the engine cooling system is adequate when on the move, I would suggest its either a blockage in the system or inadequte water pressure from the water pump.
MG
The original should have a small bypass hole in it to allow better circulation at low rpm and some circulation below the thermostat opening temp.
When I fitted a GTi engine to my panel van, I tried a new thermostat without the hole, and found that at tickover it would get hot.. but if I picked up the revs to say 1500rpm, it ran cooler.
Next time you are out and about, try picking up the revs for a couple of mins and see if the temp guage goes down rather than up...sounds crazy I know.
As the engine cooling system is adequate when on the move, I would suggest its either a blockage in the system or inadequte water pressure from the water pump.
MG
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Yeh i have considered that myself but i dont know if i have the balls to pop another engine. As i've had so many engines and fittings and only paid for the first, now nobody is willing to go any further. Not VEGE not the supplier, not the fitter. This does vex me badly as non of its my fault but the buck should stop at VEGE but they're slipper buggers and say they need the old engine to test it and once they've stripped it and so on who knows whether they're fibbing or not!
Its looking like going to have to find oilcooler and see if that helps
Cheers anymore thoughts more than welcome
Paul
Its looking like going to have to find oilcooler and see if that helps
Cheers anymore thoughts more than welcome
Paul
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