I have just put on a new brake disc and bearings and now I am putting on the brake pad carraige.
Before I put on the carraige the disc moves freely and smoothly but now I have on the carraige I can see the disc is rubbing off a corner of the carraige. Also when I tighten up the carraige it effects movement of the disc in that I have to give it a good push to get it to move. I'm guessing this isn't right.
I gave the carraige a good wire brushing to remove any rust and a thin coat of rustoleum anti rust paint if that makes a difference.
Any ideas how to stop this or am I worrying over nothing? You can see the mark on the new disc after a quick turn in the image below.
I have taken off the disc to check the inner bearings and to me it looks seated and the seal ring looks flat.
Should the disc sit all the way back so you can't see the spacer ring on the knuckle or should I still be able to see small bit of the spacer ring with the disc ?
I have it all back ok now and it's not rubbing. I have backed off the peen nut so that the washer can be just about moved by my fingers. How tight should the wheel be to spin? As in, should I be able to spin it easily and it will do a full rotation with very little pushing effort or should only turn about a quarter of a rotation with a bit of effort?
you should be able to just move the washer with the head of a screwdriver without massive force, so slightly tighter than being able to move the washer between thumb and finger, ish...
Sorry ive skim read this so if its been mentioned ignore me! When you fit the discs tighten the peen nut while spinning the disc, then keep going til you feel the disc bind a bit. Then back off the nut til the disc spins freely and the washer just moves. That way the disc should be sitting correctly on the spindle and the bearings will be seated.
Hey Stesaw, cheers for that. Ya when i initially did it i just tightened the peen nut like a normal nut. After i stopped crying and rewatched this champs video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6FROo1ko58 i did it as you described and it was much better. I took it for a spin just up and down the road and i couldn't hear any rubbing or grinding noises and the wheel didn't fall off so hopefully thats that sorted.
Maxstu, you have no idea like. Heading to France in June but need to get through the cvrt (MOT) before i can renew insurance so i feel under serious pressure now. Realised that i will probably (i.e definitely) have to change the radius rod bushes and drop link bushes as well as they are shot.
Well, if you need sorting radius rod bushes for CVRT then l suggest you get stuck in straightaway. They are often nasty, and welding where bushes go through chassis is necessary to set rods in correct position.
What comments are mentioned by CVRT inspector?
MaxStu
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
They didn't mention anything about them in fairness, but I can see the bush on the outside is all cracked and worn. They didn't say anything about it in the last test but that doesn't mean they won't in the one I must book for next month. I'm half thinking of just not going near them unless they comment on them and then if they don't I will sort them later in the year when not under pressure.
Anything that might involve welding is a no go for me anyway like. I'm gonna eventuay do some training in it to tackle small jobs. I will def be leaving the radius rods so
, I'm guessing that's take everything off again so and check.
