DJ2.1 Rebuild
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DJ2.1 Rebuild
After blowing (waterpump failure) the engine in December 2021, it has sat collecting dust in my garage.
Earlier this year l pulled out the knackered DJ and replaced it with an early DG1.9 l had available as a temporary spare engine, so l could at least keep my daily driver on the road. It's been okay. And we've covered about 4k this year. So it is a sound engine but drips a little oil.
However driving an auto and towing a lightweight caravan with the 1900 is underwhelming to say the least! I need the DJ back. POWER!
Now is the time to split the DJ's cases and have a look at the damage. I will dismantle the engine. Yet the majority of the work will be passed to professionals to work their magic. And l will assemble afterwards. This should save a considerable amount of money. And if, like me, you have the ability to wave a few spanners about, then this may well be your 'another' option instead of buying a recon engine.
I took the heads off a few weeks ago. No dramas. As this has been covered many, many times before, l didnt bother recording the event. All l will add for removal of cylinders heads is use gentle heat and don't use an impact driver.
Removal of pistons. Get yourself a set of . external and internal circlip pliers. Cylinder 4 and 2 came out with ease using a homemade puller and by wedging a piece of plywood between casing and pistons to prevent lateral stress on the conrods.
Cylinders 1and 3 didn't want to play ball. Both piston pins came out part way then refused to budge. I could have resorted heat to get them going at this stage. Instead l used a socket and wobble bar to reach behind the pistons and release the conrod nuts. However, this now means l will need to replace the stretch bolts on the conrods as the are not reuseable, unlike those fitted to the early DG1.9.
Four pistons and sleeves marked up sitting on the workbench. Two pistons still connected to conrods are not running smoothly. Closest is almost jammed in upright position. Will need investigating.
Out with the oil pump using a specific puller. They are cheap to buy, though. Or you can borrow mine.
Down to basic block and transferring engine from stand to worktop.
Removal of crankseal using an old motorcycle tyre lever. Out in 30 seconds. Honest. No scoring up the inner wall from me. Unlike previous person.
Silly scratches ...
Removed the oil thrower shim, three end float shims and locking tab.
The flexplate (instead of a flywheel. It's an auto gearbox) five bolts were tough. My Milwaukee gun couldn't succeed here. Yet copes easily with wheel nuts. So l strapped down the block and witha combo impact allen socket/breaker bar loosened all in no time. I locked the plate with a simple bit of threaded rods with some washers and nuts through the hole in the casing and lined up a hole in the plate.
Reason why my Milwalkwee Fuel failed. Lots of thread lock.
Still the best investment in years. And ideal for removing case bolt.
More tomorrow....
Earlier this year l pulled out the knackered DJ and replaced it with an early DG1.9 l had available as a temporary spare engine, so l could at least keep my daily driver on the road. It's been okay. And we've covered about 4k this year. So it is a sound engine but drips a little oil.
However driving an auto and towing a lightweight caravan with the 1900 is underwhelming to say the least! I need the DJ back. POWER!
Now is the time to split the DJ's cases and have a look at the damage. I will dismantle the engine. Yet the majority of the work will be passed to professionals to work their magic. And l will assemble afterwards. This should save a considerable amount of money. And if, like me, you have the ability to wave a few spanners about, then this may well be your 'another' option instead of buying a recon engine.
I took the heads off a few weeks ago. No dramas. As this has been covered many, many times before, l didnt bother recording the event. All l will add for removal of cylinders heads is use gentle heat and don't use an impact driver.
Removal of pistons. Get yourself a set of . external and internal circlip pliers. Cylinder 4 and 2 came out with ease using a homemade puller and by wedging a piece of plywood between casing and pistons to prevent lateral stress on the conrods.
Cylinders 1and 3 didn't want to play ball. Both piston pins came out part way then refused to budge. I could have resorted heat to get them going at this stage. Instead l used a socket and wobble bar to reach behind the pistons and release the conrod nuts. However, this now means l will need to replace the stretch bolts on the conrods as the are not reuseable, unlike those fitted to the early DG1.9.
Four pistons and sleeves marked up sitting on the workbench. Two pistons still connected to conrods are not running smoothly. Closest is almost jammed in upright position. Will need investigating.
Out with the oil pump using a specific puller. They are cheap to buy, though. Or you can borrow mine.
Down to basic block and transferring engine from stand to worktop.
Removal of crankseal using an old motorcycle tyre lever. Out in 30 seconds. Honest. No scoring up the inner wall from me. Unlike previous person.
Silly scratches ...
Removed the oil thrower shim, three end float shims and locking tab.
The flexplate (instead of a flywheel. It's an auto gearbox) five bolts were tough. My Milwaukee gun couldn't succeed here. Yet copes easily with wheel nuts. So l strapped down the block and witha combo impact allen socket/breaker bar loosened all in no time. I locked the plate with a simple bit of threaded rods with some washers and nuts through the hole in the casing and lined up a hole in the plate.
Reason why my Milwalkwee Fuel failed. Lots of thread lock.
Still the best investment in years. And ideal for removing case bolt.
More tomorrow....
Last edited by maxstu on 01 Oct 2022, 09:48, edited 1 time in total.
MaxStu
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
I was waiting for this!!
Quick question - were stretch bolts used on all DJ engines, and non-stretch on 1.9's?
Quick question - were stretch bolts used on all DJ engines, and non-stretch on 1.9's?
'89 1.9 DG
“It's Easier to Fool People Than It Is to Convince Them That They Have Been Fooled.” ~ Mark Twain.
“It's Easier to Fool People Than It Is to Convince Them That They Have Been Fooled.” ~ Mark Twain.
Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
Hi Steve,
That's my understand. Don't reuse DJ conrod bolts. DG can be reused.
The DJ bolts can be pressed out and new ones put in place simply using a large vice.
That's my understand. Don't reuse DJ conrod bolts. DG can be reused.
The DJ bolts can be pressed out and new ones put in place simply using a large vice.
MaxStu
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
- ajsimmo
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Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
Smiffo wrote: Quick question - were stretch bolts used on all DJ engines, and non-stretch on 1.9's?
No, stretch used on late 1.9s too.
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The Campershack - (website paused)
WBX Rebuilds & Upgrades from the beautiful Isle of Arran
WBX Rebuilds & Upgrades from the beautiful Isle of Arran
Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
Thanks AJ.
'89 1.9 DG
“It's Easier to Fool People Than It Is to Convince Them That They Have Been Fooled.” ~ Mark Twain.
“It's Easier to Fool People Than It Is to Convince Them That They Have Been Fooled.” ~ Mark Twain.
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- Registered user
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Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
New bolts are just about as expensive as new rods from what I remember with my build
1985 LeisureDrive 2.1DJ 5 Speed syncro conversion project.
1979 LT 2.0CH Westy project
1979 LT 2.0CH Westy project
Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
Thank you for the correction.
Early case single oil switch engines use non stretch bolts? Is it that simple?
MaxStu
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
Did you have to use stretch, or is it that you could opt to change them for non-stretch?
i.e. is there an issue they were overcoming by moving to stretch bolts?
'89 1.9 DG
“It's Easier to Fool People Than It Is to Convince Them That They Have Been Fooled.” ~ Mark Twain.
“It's Easier to Fool People Than It Is to Convince Them That They Have Been Fooled.” ~ Mark Twain.
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 1937
- Joined: 10 Aug 2019, 23:30
- 80-90 Mem No: 17004
- Location: Coventry
Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
As I bought new rods they came with new stretch bolts, so I used them.
I suppose I could have bought non stretch bolts and swapped them but from what I recall that was about £100 of bolts from the US.
I suppose I could have bought non stretch bolts and swapped them but from what I recall that was about £100 of bolts from the US.
1985 LeisureDrive 2.1DJ 5 Speed syncro conversion project.
1979 LT 2.0CH Westy project
1979 LT 2.0CH Westy project
Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
200 quid for new conrods.
In for a penny etc
Apparently a 2.1 gives the rods much more of a workout than the 1.9. Causing the conrod big ends to go oval. Yet use the same rods. So l guess same bolts for late DJ and DG as corrected by AJ.
I have a set of early rods in the workshop. I wonder if they can be used (providing they measure up to within spec)?
In for a penny etc
Apparently a 2.1 gives the rods much more of a workout than the 1.9. Causing the conrod big ends to go oval. Yet use the same rods. So l guess same bolts for late DJ and DG as corrected by AJ.
I have a set of early rods in the workshop. I wonder if they can be used (providing they measure up to within spec)?
MaxStu
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 1937
- Joined: 10 Aug 2019, 23:30
- 80-90 Mem No: 17004
- Location: Coventry
Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
I guess they aren't NOS but dont see why you couldn't use them if they are in spec.
1985 LeisureDrive 2.1DJ 5 Speed syncro conversion project.
1979 LT 2.0CH Westy project
1979 LT 2.0CH Westy project
- Robsey
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Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
Thank goodness -
An engine rebuild thread.
Proper nuts and bolts stuff.
Time to sit back with a brew and a piece of cake whilst I watch the 'games' unfold.
No pressure, the 8090 world is now watching your every move with eager anticipation.
An engine rebuild thread.
Proper nuts and bolts stuff.
Time to sit back with a brew and a piece of cake whilst I watch the 'games' unfold.
No pressure, the 8090 world is now watching your every move with eager anticipation.
1983 Tin Top with a poorly DF and 4 speed DT box.
1987 Electrics and a DJ engine.
Maybe one day I might get it finished
1987 Electrics and a DJ engine.
Maybe one day I might get it finished
Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
Thanks, Robsey!
MaxStu
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
Pulled apart the cases earlier today. That is once l had found the last nut hiding under caked road dirt and oil. Little blighter! Just below larger one in picture. I use a hoof pick to clean up all fixings. Then a quick squirt of K2 Vulcan penetrating oil does the trick. And using the Milwaukee gun of course. Instance removal of low to mid torque fittings thanks to it's multiple settings and hammer action.
A few light taps with a rubber mallet and away come the casings.
Cases split apart and camshaft removed. Then out comes the crank and on to the workbench.
From what l can see it is a blue marked crank. The colour is pretty vague due to aged deposits. But as the other colour is red l guess there no mistake here.
The colour refers to nominal measurements of the four crank main bearings beyond standard, and
found in your workshop manual. More on this shortly.
Time to measure bearings. I did a very quick hand-sketched diagram of the crank to pistons to flywheel to pulley relationship.
Then cleaned all bearing surfaces as best as possible and added a light coating of engine oil.
Using my newly purchased Clarke
shock-proof and accurate to .02mm dial caliper l measured each of the four main bearing surfaces multiple times and at different orientations, recording my finding on the hand written chart. As each bearing was measured between three and five times, l took an average measurement for each one. This is the nominal diameter.
This is where l came unstuck. And am relying on this forums' engine rebuilding guru's to sort me out, please. See schoolboy diagrams. How can bearings 4 and 1 be larger than nominal size?
Bearing 4
Bearings 3 & 2
Bearing 1
And according to manual.....note red and blue crank nominal differences.
To my mind my measurements are all over the place. And working out nominal measurements left me a little in doubt l knew not what l was doing. The Haynes manual correlates with Bentley (according to MY Bentley). So over to you, if you care to help me and have a look at the figures on the three diagrams photos above and give me you views?
Regards
Stuart
A few light taps with a rubber mallet and away come the casings.
Cases split apart and camshaft removed. Then out comes the crank and on to the workbench.
From what l can see it is a blue marked crank. The colour is pretty vague due to aged deposits. But as the other colour is red l guess there no mistake here.
The colour refers to nominal measurements of the four crank main bearings beyond standard, and
found in your workshop manual. More on this shortly.
Time to measure bearings. I did a very quick hand-sketched diagram of the crank to pistons to flywheel to pulley relationship.
Then cleaned all bearing surfaces as best as possible and added a light coating of engine oil.
Using my newly purchased Clarke
shock-proof and accurate to .02mm dial caliper l measured each of the four main bearing surfaces multiple times and at different orientations, recording my finding on the hand written chart. As each bearing was measured between three and five times, l took an average measurement for each one. This is the nominal diameter.
This is where l came unstuck. And am relying on this forums' engine rebuilding guru's to sort me out, please. See schoolboy diagrams. How can bearings 4 and 1 be larger than nominal size?
Bearing 4
Bearings 3 & 2
Bearing 1
And according to manual.....note red and blue crank nominal differences.
To my mind my measurements are all over the place. And working out nominal measurements left me a little in doubt l knew not what l was doing. The Haynes manual correlates with Bentley (according to MY Bentley). So over to you, if you care to help me and have a look at the figures on the three diagrams photos above and give me you views?
Regards
Stuart
MaxStu
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 1937
- Joined: 10 Aug 2019, 23:30
- 80-90 Mem No: 17004
- Location: Coventry
Re: DJ2.1 Rebuild
I forget with my measurements Stu, not sure I documented it that well on my build thread.
But the 40mm 55mm and 60mm sound familiar as they should be standard bearing sizes, I think (hazy) Andrew said a few thou or something out either way isn't bad unless you're getting into mm's out, then you got issues. (I'm sure he can correct me if he sees this)
But the 40mm 55mm and 60mm sound familiar as they should be standard bearing sizes, I think (hazy) Andrew said a few thou or something out either way isn't bad unless you're getting into mm's out, then you got issues. (I'm sure he can correct me if he sees this)
1985 LeisureDrive 2.1DJ 5 Speed syncro conversion project.
1979 LT 2.0CH Westy project
1979 LT 2.0CH Westy project