Club 80-90 Forums

pugvan wrote: ↑18 Dec 2022, 03:55

BigBlueVan wrote: ↑01 Dec 2022, 19:57

shepster wrote: ↑29 Nov 2022, 14:38 Good choice deleting the rear windows.Can i ask what the deal is with the phosphoric acid  how is it used where do you get it and does it need to be washed off cheers.
I take it you're doing away with the rear windows?

Yes I am deleting the rear side windows.
It only ever had 1 side window,, it was either have both sides or none, I choose to remove t

Thanks for the reply but you didn't answer the bit about the phosphoric acid treatment. how is it used does it need washing off where do you get it.
By the way that roof corner is impressive.
 

Almost all rust treatment products contain phosphoric acid. Bilt Hamber, Kurust.. etc.
Some have a coating too - such as Vactan.

You normally brush it on - wear gloves, because it is acid.
I have tended to leave the acid on to do it's work.
You know it is working when any rust converts to a black compound.

Any localised excess acid will dry as fine flakes, which I rub off to leave a smooth surface.

pugvan wrote: ↑20 Dec 2022, 03:43

pugvan wrote: ↑18 Dec 2022, 03:55

BigBlueVan wrote: ↑01 Dec 2022, 19:57

Yes I am deleting the rear side windows.
It only ever had 1 side window,, it was either have both sides or none, I choose to remove t

Thanks for the reply but you didn't answer the bit about the phosphoric acid treatment. how is it used does it need washing off where do you get it.
By the way that roof corner is impressive.
 

I use "Phoskleen B" which is available from Rustbusters in Lincolnshire.
This leaves a phosphated surface, so any small amounts of rust are neutralized and sealed from oxygen/moisture.
It is cleaned with a product also from Rustbusters, chlor-x I believe.
A quick de-nib which a scotch Brite pad before painting is all it needs after cleaning.
(I hate the term rust converter,,, you can only neutralize rust it's cannot be "converted".. any rust which has been "converted" knock the coating off and you will find rust)

Rustbusters also offer "Phoskleen A" which is a really strong mix of phosphoric and hydrochloric acids,, truly nasty stuff but incredible at shifting tough rust on small parts,, although have to be careful not to leave them too long as it will also attack clean metal given enough time.

Personally I have never had good results using kurust and other products of this type, so for me the Phoskleen is my go to.

As always though the best cure for rust is to chop it out where you can.

Thanks for that 

Rear Door Repairs

I have neglected to update this for a long time, i will splits the updates into the relevant sections.. the actual works were undertaken in the usual organised chaotic fashion.

As always first task was to strip the door and find the rust to repair.



A couple of bits on the lower window edge needed chopping out and repairing.




The bottom edge was the worst part, lots of chopping out and repairing here.





Onto the sliding door...

Sliding Door Repairs

So same process, strip the door, find the rust, chop out the rust, repair and replace as required.

Front Door Repairs

Same again! Strip, inspect, chop out and repair/replace.
The front doors were actually in very good condition, just a few minor repairs needed.. Made for a welcome change on the project.




 

Bodyfiller and then some more Bodyfiller!

Did i say i hate bodyfiller? took a while but it is getting the point where i am happy it is flat enough. not going for concours finish.
very happy with the roof corners given they were built from nothing.

Seam sealing, stone chip and final paint of the underside.

The van was mounted onto the rotisserie for what was the last time as it has since been sold. (the rotisserie was sold not the van!)
managed to get all the seam sealing done.



Then after this a good coat of UPOL Gravitex stonechip was applied, included a good dollop of brushable seam sealer in the wheel arches.
Following this the underside received 2 coats of "Rustbuster" Epoxy 121 mixed to the RAL5012 Blue colour i am going with for the project.

Door Epoxy Priming, final bodyfiller touchup and High build primer.

I made the most of the recent good weather to get the van outside to give me space to do the doors.
The doors were setup in the garage and received a coat of epoxy primer.


After this the final bits of bodyfiller and touchup were done to the doors.



Then 3 coats of high build primer, 2 coats wet on wet application, a 240grit DA sand down then a heavy wet 3rd coat to provide a smooth off the gun finish for the final paint in the future.

Epoxy Priming the Shell!!!

The time finally came to get the shell primed after all the bodyfiller, so a nice clean coat of epoxy primer was applied so i can see what last bits of filling need doing.
The photos seem to show lots of dents on the panels, this is either where the epoxy is sunk into the underlying bodyfiller or it is reflections from things on the walls of the garage.

Well done, i just clicked back to the first page to remind me of how bad it was, dont forget to install the window rubbers with non setting sealant.

Hight build primer

After some time prepping the shell after the epoxy primer it was finally time to get the first coat of high build primer onto the whole shell.

High Build Primer

Priming is now completed,
Lots of rubbing done and degreasing to do

UPOL Raptor in the rear area

Made a start with the raptor,, using a gravity fed spray gun, set at 2 bar. Made a nice fine textured finish rather than the usual blobby mess from the standard shutz style guns.