Club 80-90 Forums

Thanks Cobra, but Chris did all the hard work and kindly sent me his image file which I just tweaked to suit my needs.

And here it is fitted.
If I was going to do it again i'd print the transparency in mirror image so the print toner is on the inside next to the paper.

Backlight off-


Backlight on-
Camera doesn't do it justice.
Looks better in real life.




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That's worked out really nicely - a logical symbol, and a good dense print.

bigbadbob76 wrote:And here it is fitted.
If I was going to do it again i'd print the transparency in mirror image so the print toner is on the inside next to the paper.

Wouldn't there be a danger that the front face would show reflections if the toner is on the reverse? I quite like the idea of having the paper at the front and the transparency behind, as the toner on the paper has a nice matt finish.

Yes, I suppose it might.
The toner side of the transparency has a matt finish where the toner is, so either way would do but the paper print has a less dense black than the plastic so I prefer it this way.
Plenty of scope for differences of preference though.

CJH wrote:

nickelo wrote:
Hello Chris, have you thought about adding an acoustic/low coolant level temperature alarm integrated?

And to sell the kit on ebay?

Very good work.

Hi Nickelo

Interesting idea - you mean a buzzer that comes on whenever the temperature gauge LED comes on?

I'd considered putting the kit on ebay, but I prefer to keep it as our little secret - where the demand is manageable!

Yes, If it would be ideal to get it, the Gowesty kit (Very Expensive ...) only sounds on high temperature, not when low level of coolant. I do not know how the VDO meter does this, to this internal led flashing in this case.

http://www.gowesty.com/product/electric ... -alarm-kit" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I would have bought one but it took too long to validate my forum account and I have mounted this one, tomorrow I'll connect it, I hope it works, otherwise I'll buy you one.



As it is said in Spain "Work of Chinese", but good solution.

Tomorrow I'll connect to van, I hope it works , otherwise I'll buy you one.

mike_gee32 wrote: If you pm or email me the image you used when you printed it out I'm happy to have a play in the evenings and see if I can make something work.
Mike

Hi Mike - that would be great, thank you. I'll PM you.

nickelo wrote:
I would have bought one but it took too long to validate my forum account and I have mounted this one, tomorrow I'll connect it, I hope it works, otherwise I'll buy you one.

Hi Nickelo - there's no reason at all why that won't work - that's exactly where this thread started. Good luck!

I installed the circuit in the van, everything perfect, but I have a problem with the led indicator of the turn signals.

-Warnng lights button, no contact, led OK. Start engine or start position, led no work on warning lights button, on turn indicator etc...

I tested change the led circuit to connect to heart, no ignition, all works , Turn key, but buzzer sounds and always and led turned on idle position of turn indicators and warning light.

My van is a 1985 model and have analogic clock, no rpm counter. Any suggestion?

Thanks.

CJH wrote:

nickelo wrote:
I would have bought one but it took too long to validate my forum account and I have mounted this one, tomorrow I'll connect it, I hope it works, otherwise I'll buy you one.

Hi Nickelo - there's no reason at all why that won't work - that's exactly where this thread started. Good luck!

Thanks! almost working

nickelo wrote:

CJH wrote:

nickelo wrote:
I would have bought one but it took too long to validate my forum account and I have mounted this one, tomorrow I'll connect it, I hope it works, otherwise I'll buy you one.

Hi Nickelo - there's no reason at all why that won't work - that's exactly where this thread started. Good luck!

Thanks! almost working

Solved!! led inverted

One advance to have the blue led pilot.

I've built a few of these boards to order in the last week or so, and I realised I needed a convenient way to test that the LEDs work as intended and that the wires between the dash PCB and the 'fingers' multiplug connector are all in the right places.

So I built a test panel - just some momentary push buttons to check that the corresponding LEDs light when earthed or connected to ignition as appropriate. The jumper towards the bottom of the board allows me to test the 6th LED and the glow plugs LED as either switched +ve or switched -ve.

I used the remains of the Golf multiplug to make a 'late' connector. I'll pick up another multiplug at Busfest and make an 'early' connector to attach to the same terminals.

I must say that this is an amazing piece of kit, that far exceeds it actual cost. The 3D printer parts are a joy to use. The manual is a little confusing at first but if you take eveything slowly and a step at a time, its straightfoward to work through it...

That said I had a terrible time ... my own stupidy Firstly I put the main connector on the wrong side, I could have worked with it but decided to remove and put on the right way round. I maged to get it in, tested a few things and then bang LOTS of sparks and then all the magic smoke got out. I have a clock on my Dash whos light comes from the dimmer control. there was some exposed wire and boom. I blew most of the lights. i got some replacements. Everything works apart from one thing!

How do I test the oil warning light? Is it surposed to light up when fisrt turn on the ignition. (a bit light the battery light). I have plenty of oil, but the light does not come on at any time?

I would recommend the kit to anyone, just dont get me to do it for you

Sorry to hear you let the magic smoke out.
You can test the oil light by connecting a wire between the "low oil pres" terminal and ground (brown wire terminal) on Chris's board.
Just poke the wire onto the terminal screws.

Yes, as Bob, says, you just need to earth the 'Low Oil Pres' terminal. It would be different if you had the DOPS board in your speedo, but your early van won't have that. If you have a meter, you could also check the resistance of R3 in case that's where the smoke came from and it's now open circuit - 3k9 Ohms is the supplied value.

Double check that the LED is in the right way round - the flat should be aligned with the footprint on the LED side of the board. But also check the board for burnt out tracks. If you created a dead short between battery +ve and earth somehow, the PCB tracks won't take the resulting current. It's conceivable that the magic smoke came from a PCB track burning out - I did that with one of the boards when experimenting with different resistor values by just pushing them into the holes. A burnt track would be obvious on the PCB though.

Wonderful , thats just the information I required, I can test later. thanks