So, my van has a shot sliding door sill panel.
Not just the seal channel (I wish) but the entire section around it. Quarry lime has done for it not doubt.
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hph ... 4766_n.jpg
I've got a repair panel to replace it properly.
Now I am wondering how to approach removal and refitting. Access isn't great so I am considering slitting across the lower sill and removing the upper section of floor in the slider. Has anyone else done this repair and how did you approach it?
Replacing the sliding door outer sill panel.
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Replacing the sliding door outer sill panel.
'90 Syncro Hightop. Ex-BUPA/Rowan ambulance with 2.0L GTI power and some curious windows.
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Re: Replacing the sliding door outer sill panel.
I'm almost finished doing mine... have a look at the last few pages of my rest thread.
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... &start=255" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... &start=255" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Last edited by boatbuilder on 30 Jul 2014, 13:23, edited 1 time in total.
1984 1.9D (AEF Code) T25 tintop
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Re: Replacing the sliding door outer sill panel.
You need to remove the heavy top plate first by drilling out the spot welds on the top etc. Make sure to take measurements of the position of the old slider channel as it's pretty crucial to get it at the same height when you put it back on.
1984 1.9D (AEF Code) T25 tintop
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Re: Replacing the sliding door outer sill panel.
The new panel you show in the photo there isn't the best fit in so far as the lower lip could do with being about 1/2 an inch longer but it doesn't really matter, still goes on ok.
1984 1.9D (AEF Code) T25 tintop
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Re: Replacing the sliding door outer sill panel.
Next is to tackle this... the bottom of the C post where the lower sliding door track meets it... took a few measurements before I started cutting...
Will make up new pieces in the morning...
First bit of C post repair...
Second bit...
Next to tackle the bottom slider rail and outer sill...
First job was to remove the seal channel from the new outer sill.
I laid out the old and new parts side by side, took note of lots of measurements before I started cutting.
Note the bend in the panel along where the black line is. Will have to try to recreate that bend in the new part.
Note the surface that the vert. roller rides on has a slope outwards...
I cut the rusty worn bit out and used it as a template to mark the new outer sill.
Thanks Wookster, that clears things up for me.
I trial fitted the semi-repaired sliding door track today.
I just tack welded the repair and held the whole thing in place with three sets of vice grips.
I was pleasantly surprised to find that when I put the door on, it lined up pretty well. I reckon there will be enough adjustment in the roller arms to make it dead on.
I came across a few problems....
The lip on the new outer sill isn't long enough to cover the inner sill lip properly. Its about 5mm or so too short.
I don't feel like welding a tiny thin strip the whole way along, so it will do the way it is. There's enough of an overlap to make decent enough spot welds and I can always weld along the edge in a few places. By the time its seam sealed etc, no one will notice.
Apart from that, I've had a problem with twisting the whole thing correctly to fit and for the rollers to run smoothly. Because the new panel was flat and didn't have the bend in it (the bend I talked about before with a black line in one of the photos), when I did put a bend in it, the whole thing took a twist and has been hard to get straight again.
It'll be a matter of brute force to bend it into shape while finally welding it in place.
Welded a bit more of the bottom sliding door track....
Started to weld in the repaired sliding door track today....
Then attached the new channel for the door seal...
Attached the sliding door to check the fit....
Ran out of upwards adjustment on the front edge of the door and I think it could do with going up another bit so am considering elongating the slots in the arm a bit more.
Will make up new pieces in the morning...
First bit of C post repair...
Second bit...
Next to tackle the bottom slider rail and outer sill...
First job was to remove the seal channel from the new outer sill.
I laid out the old and new parts side by side, took note of lots of measurements before I started cutting.
Note the bend in the panel along where the black line is. Will have to try to recreate that bend in the new part.
Note the surface that the vert. roller rides on has a slope outwards...
I cut the rusty worn bit out and used it as a template to mark the new outer sill.
Thanks Wookster, that clears things up for me.
I trial fitted the semi-repaired sliding door track today.
I just tack welded the repair and held the whole thing in place with three sets of vice grips.
I was pleasantly surprised to find that when I put the door on, it lined up pretty well. I reckon there will be enough adjustment in the roller arms to make it dead on.
I came across a few problems....
The lip on the new outer sill isn't long enough to cover the inner sill lip properly. Its about 5mm or so too short.
I don't feel like welding a tiny thin strip the whole way along, so it will do the way it is. There's enough of an overlap to make decent enough spot welds and I can always weld along the edge in a few places. By the time its seam sealed etc, no one will notice.
Apart from that, I've had a problem with twisting the whole thing correctly to fit and for the rollers to run smoothly. Because the new panel was flat and didn't have the bend in it (the bend I talked about before with a black line in one of the photos), when I did put a bend in it, the whole thing took a twist and has been hard to get straight again.
It'll be a matter of brute force to bend it into shape while finally welding it in place.
Welded a bit more of the bottom sliding door track....
Started to weld in the repaired sliding door track today....
Then attached the new channel for the door seal...
Attached the sliding door to check the fit....
Ran out of upwards adjustment on the front edge of the door and I think it could do with going up another bit so am considering elongating the slots in the arm a bit more.
1984 1.9D (AEF Code) T25 tintop