The Lankavagon

[lloydy]

***** off
Lol

[Plasticman]

well top of the slider track has nice swelling now the silicone has been removed

ive gently pried it a bit here, but the separation is common where rust within a seam does what it does and expands

so
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[mrhutch]

[boatbuilder]

Come on, just do the arches and stop messin around would ya?
*runs away*

[Plasticman]

well i got certain luxuries so drill a few spots out

and pry the edge up

this is the rust that was causing the 2 panels to separate
i cut a long story short and whip the gas axe out to leave this

tea calls so first things first
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[Plasticman]

better
5" disc dont reach so

grot

the bulk hacked out the way

could always mount a though the floor hi lift jack here


again just the rough chop of the obvious rubbish

a lot of the inner sill is ok and whilst i have some genuine inners i dont feel its need here as i can make good this
area

this rot is the edge of the main floor that is sandwiched between the step cover plate and the inner sill

so drilling again

prior to removing the edge.
so looking much nicer now after a quick wire brush

so i wont take any more off till the new channel arrives on tuesday,

but theres a few bits other than this to attend to
got to give credit to the spot bit as its a make ive not used before but cuts well
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[Plasticman]

Well new lump arrived today, very happy

the following i hope shows how it fits/secures to the C post if you fancny chopping into this



this from the rear side that is inside the inner sill

underside of front part

this is the front part clamped to a new genuine inner sill to show how they sit in relatuion to each other

these are close ups of the inner construction of the parts of it


this is the rear coupled together

i read here recently that someone was/had ?fitted the repro inners and i think the sales blurb stated 1.2mm same as oe ??? nah

this is oe and it really does matter.
my post on general for a digi pen was so i can draw write on pickies such as this, im on a laptop running vesta so i think it would need a pad of some sort and a pen ????
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[boatbuilder]

Flippin eck where did you find that? Wish I'd known you can get the entire thing like that! I pieced mine together from a JK repair panel.

[Plasticman]

Well lots going on but back to the task in hand, its been played with here and there and some parts have to be removed in a more aggressive manner than i would prefer but result is the same...
seems they got carried away with the spotting

so

i did unpick the 4 spots here, been as easy to chop it off and remake but a line to be drawn someplace

ive opened the rear arm area up , its not terminal but needs the usual,

straight edge to cut the crappy bit out

in fact quite a bit cut out


no point leaving this sort of stuff here as its never going to be easier to do now


first part made to fit here,in the same gauge as OE.

likewise with a new load bed edge to form the closure


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[Plasticman]

well a quick weld of the bed edge

all the way along

next the inner sill part is held in position

small gap left to allow expansion while welding


seam welded


very quick light sand over

underside


trial fit of runner

needs a little more work here but its a good guide for building the inner B post

same rear though this needs loads of work to make as it should be......happy days

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[volks_womble]

What brand of spot weld drill are you using mike? I struggle to get them to last...

Cheers
Mark

[Plasticman]

i use 2, i will have a look tomoz, secret is NOT to let them spin up, you have to keep pressure on at a low-ish speed so they cut rather than try to wear their way through
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[volks_womble]

Are these the carbide bits that are ground flat with a small central point, or the miniature holesaw type?
Cheers
Mark

[Plasticman]

well.....
lower lip was iffy so off with it and a new one added

done


now the front part was a mess of rot and crap so easiest way is remove it

to leave a clean space....

it may seem dramatic but it really does make life easier as you now have clean solid steel to work from without compromise rather than trying to patch in silly bits to the rust,i could remove the whole outrigger but its a lot of work that isnt needed and i do like to keep the chassis number unmolested...

these lips will weld to part of the outrigger as will become apparent later its also why these are a pig to unpick and dismantle if you only want to do a small local repair

and these lips will weld to the inside of the lower inner B post

this area is also sad

so start cutting back


this is not the final cut

but little and often and consider why you are removing metal and also how you are going to replace it there is a method to it and i will try convey this as it goes along
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[Plasticman]

oh sorry forgot about the spot drill
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WURTH-COBALT- ... 4844edcc6e" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
not bought from them but price is about right and importantly it tells you about speeds, hence i use a geared makita 0- 550 rpm it then eats spots
stay away from screwfix /draper/anything under 5-6 quid as they are crap imho
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