WBX clutch question..... twin locker tin top?

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WBX clutch question..... twin locker tin top?

Postby spanishfly » 07 Sep 2019, 20:00

This might sound daft but it has been a little while since I asked one so here goes. Need help trying to prioritise the way ahead...!

Finally have my Syncro on the road after quite a few months of detective work and tinkering. The last job has been replacing the clutch slave cylinder which did seem to be leaking very slightly ( turned out to be a pain compared to 2WD!). I wasn't a hundred percent sure it needed changing but after a couple of unsuccessful bleeding sessions the biting point still seemed near the end of its travel and as I had a spare from a 2WD seemed worth a try. The original FAG has a banjo and a couple of copper washers in a machined recess so a bit different to the 2WD fittings I've seen before. I sanded the surface of the replacement 2WD slave cylinder with fine paper until shiny and fitted over size copper washers. Doesn't seem to leak but biting point still seems quite near the end of travel.

So despite having had T25's/T3's for 15 years and travelling over a 100,000 km I've never actually worn out a clutch so a bit unsure of the life or symptoms, obviously I know that in the end you wouldn't be able to get in to gear but before that presumably the biting point approaches the floor? Does this happen with an increasing dead space in the travel with little resistance until the final bit? Or am I maybe sucking in air or still have air pockets somewhere? The bleeder is a bit rubbish which doesn't help.

Obviously the life of a clutch depends on the driver, this being 2 owners from new before me and the 2nd of them being a gentlemen who contributed very little to the 78000 miles on the clock and the originality and condition of other components suggests it probably is the original? The seller, a relative of the PO (no longer with us) did tell me the PO had removed the propshaft because the VC was 'dragging the clutch'. I'm wondering what the 'dragging the clutch comment meant' , or how it would manifest itself? I've resisted the urge to refit the prop shaft yet as I haven't racked up any miles and want to get to know the van a bit first. Also want to avoid any chance of damaging the drive train? The twin diff locks do both now work but as I don't have the wherwithall to throw money at everything I'm thinking it better not getting the VC reconditioned or look for a replacement just yet. Besides, before I do that 4 new tyres should probably come first then it will make sense to fit the prop and do the WIKI test to try and work out if the VC is working and the clutch on its way out or possibly the reverse or just air in the system...??


Any
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1987 Dehler Profi 2+2
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Re: WBX clutch question..... twin locker tin top?

Postby silverbullet » 08 Sep 2019, 06:12

I would reckon that you have two things going on here.
1. Air in the clutch line (it will be spongy and the release point will be low)
There needs to be sufficient rate of flow to get all the air out, vacuum bleeders are supposed to be very good but I have always got by with an old Gunson's pressure kit @ 20psi
2. the VC has gone tight. It won't make the clutch drag, but it will put strain on the drivetrain due to lack of slip between the axles when turning a corner (which it is supposed to do)

A decent clutch bleeder will fix no1, I can sort no2 for you ;)

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Re: WBX clutch question..... twin locker tin top?

Postby spanishfly » 10 Sep 2019, 18:31

Thanks, that was daft, just air in the line!

Will definitely be seeking your help with the VC in a little while if that's ok?

In the meantime.......

Just posted a rambling update to my BOD issues 'Fast forward a couple of months, my syncro is finally on the road and completed its first trip to a nearby beach. New oil, new pressure spring, new filter, reassuring oil pressure gauge in the dash and my best guess at AFM and mixture settings seemed really happy pulled well, no squeaks or clonking a joy like on rails and 60 at 3200rpm or their abouts and plenty to spare... sun shining, happy kids sitting on the roof rack, reading (once we'd got there obviously) Life is good?

Until on the way home, in convoy with a friend in an Aircooled gave it some beans up a long hill, not racing just stretching its legs a bit. At the top a familiar flashing closely followed by the BOD. Pressure below 1 at 2000 rpm buzzer went out if revs blipped to 3000 but I guess this confirms the original worn bottom end prognosis...?

I realise this has been done to death but given the newish (2000 mile) shiny AMC heads and relatively low mileage 78k I want to make a plan that will enable me to make the engine as good (reliable) as it can be and do justice to the almost rust free body with a view to eventually in a couple of years taking it on a long heroic trip so I'm assuming rebuilding sooner rather than later will be a better investment in its longevity?

Is it still worth trying to plot wet gauge pressures on the road, presumably a compression test would be useful?

Is it possible a Marco oil pump would be all that's required or should I look for somewhere dry to store it, remove the engine and start saving for bits and machining/ measuring work. Those are the things I can't or atleast don't have the tools or expertise to tackle.

I'm happy to take the engine out and heads and ancillaries off with help from the build threads on here but haven't found a knowledgeable machine shop engine builder in the southwest? They don't have to be in the southwest.

There is a company down the road who build pinto race engines but they don't want to touch a DJ. I've seen ads for companies in the Netherlands that look good but seem very expensive and am not really interested in a recon exchange. I'm hoping to build on the work I and the PO have already done.

Would the newish AMC heads mean a rebuild now would be cheaper than running it until something more serious happens...? Or am I being soft?
There does seem to be some conflicting advice from people who seem to have ploughed on for years with the BOD going off, maybe I misunderstood?
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1988 AFN Mosaik...maybe?
1987 Dehler Profi 2+2
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Joined: 09 May 2013, 14:43
Location: Launceston, Cornwall
80-90 Mem No: 12044

Re: WBX clutch question..... twin locker tin top?

Postby silverbullet » 11 Sep 2019, 07:28

No problem on the VC.
I would investigate for bad earths (instrument pack/cab end, battery etc) and fitting an oil pressure gauge to establish what you have got, or not got.
I have been known to play with a wbx too, both standard 2.1 and 2.5 capacity ;)
A couple of recent customer builds, banking in tight formation as they leave the engine room:
Image

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Re: WBX clutch question..... twin locker tin top?

Postby spanishfly » 12 Sep 2019, 07:16

Nice! Thanks.

Will wet gauge and check oil pump first to get a clearer idea of what is going on before winging my way down your way....!
!987 Westy Joker 1.6TD
1988 AFN Mosaik...maybe?
1987 Dehler Profi 2+2
spanishfly
 
Posts: 156
Joined: 09 May 2013, 14:43
Location: Launceston, Cornwall
80-90 Mem No: 12044


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