Spraying Rustoleum

[CovKid]

http://www.volkszone.co.uk/VZi/showthre ... 35&page=18" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Might interest someone

[Hudson1984]

Hi all read your wiki and thought i'd come say hi.

i have a dreaded transit van (sorry i know unclean UNCLEAN!!)

just after some further advice on rustoleum:

I'm going to go with matt black. Unfortunately i live in a terrace and think the neighbours would kill me if i sprayed it so i'm there with the roller plans.

my question is what extra challenges (if any) does matt finish present?

I want to do the best job I can but due to parking (I can use my garage but cannot get the van inside and can only park outside it for the day as others need to get past everynow and then) i'd be doing a panel at a time i.e 1 panel per week per coat slow but this is what needs to be done.

will i still achieve a good colour match (it's the only reason i'm using matt as i feel it would be easier to match with painting at different times.

any help would be great

[CovKid]

Hi buddy. Firstly you need to hook yourself into the roller thread.
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=18751" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

With matt, you need to stir a lot more than usual and if it were me, I'd find myself a piece of laminated chipboard and practice on that first. Painting at different times will be no different with matt OR gloss to be honest. Rustoleum doesn't fade easily either. The DVD will help you gain confidence in the entire job and avoid obvious mistakes.

[Hudson1984]

ahh ok - i've read your wiki but will trot over to the thread too

ahh DVD good idea

[New Kentish Campers]

How do you get ripples completely out of panels?
Like if you discover a ripple after the primer is on, what is the process to fix it? Can you apply filler on top of vactan?

If you mean ripples as in old filler-like repairs that have not been done properly, than all you can do is to re-flat the panel until its correct again, whether painted or not. Its often the case that if filler is applied over paint, then you can never get a true flat finish because you are 'chasing' the edge all the time.

You might well find that there's too much filler thats been applied over paint so it might be more time saving to to sand a few inches around the repair into the original metal and then apply the filler over the damage. When you begin to rub it all down, you are rubbing into metal, and not paint so that the finish will be and flat, and ready for primer.

Once you are happy that the panel is flat again, its not a bad idea to apply a light 'guide coat' of paint - like plain black cellulose for instance - over the primer area so that you can flat the panel down and then reveal the actual primer underneath. In other words, as the black paint dissapears from the flatting, then then panel is nice and flat and ready for the top coat.

Hope that helps...

Doug.

[robber_roo]

OK reading this has inspired me. I've ordered the DVD and will crack on after my Cornwall trip

[collins_sh]

Any tips on spraying with Rustoleum,

do you use any type of paint thinners or the Rustoleum 7301 stuff or does this matter.

is the paint very slow to cure?

any advice would be appreciated, just ready to start works.

[CovKid]

The recommended thinner is 'mineral spirits- (ie white spirit) although perhaps if I was using a clear Rustoleum I'd use their own. Can't advise beyond that as its a new thread. Try and see basically. As always, practice on scrap material.

[boatbuilder]

I saw on an American forum where people were recommending the use of "reducer" to speed up the drying time when spraying Rustoleum? Anyone know what reducer is?

[CovKid]

i think we call it an accelerant. There may be something in that although theres also a school of thought that the paint tends to level out better due to its slower flash point resulting in a smoother finish.

I have to say, we did experiment with spraying Rustoleum and the difference between rollering and spraying (providing mix was right) was hard to spot and certainly close to many low-end production cars. You have to spend a lot for a new car with a glass finish these days.

As I've mentioned a few times, I highly recommend getting up close to a few new vehicles and looking at the variations in finish between car makes rather than assume that the finish is flawless - it generally isn't.. You'd be surprised at just what is deemed acceptable compared to say 20 years ago. Finish in this instance is down to detailed prep and careful adjustments of the thinner ratio. Personally I find I can make changes quite easily by adding a splash of thinners directly to a roller tray if its going on like toffee. Spraying is less forgiving but I think I'd be inclined to add a couple of ball bearings to paint cup to aid agitation if you find paint is a little too thick and more thinners are needed.

To be honest, if I was going to all the trouble to spray, I'd opt for two-pack.

[KittyCamper84]

Before the bad weather started back end of last year I started spraying my van.Now waiting for better weather to spray the top half. My compressor is just a 1.5hp cheapo job and I used the equally cheapo gravity fed gun that came with one of those accessory kits for about £20.I had never sprayed anything before apart from using rattlecans.I put a water trap on the compressor set the pressure to about 45-50 psi played with the gun till I got a fan shape as mentioned in all the books.The paint was mixed 80/20 paint to white spirit and off I went.The results while not being perfect were certainly acceptable.The only problems I got were due to my inexperience, the main one being trying to fling too much on at one go resulting in a few runs With a bit of care and patience a good finish is very achievable.
Pics below are after 2-3 coats with a flatting off between coats 2 and 3 all painting was done were you see it on the front yard

hi loving the colour can you confirm is this ral7322 ?

Does anyone have the answer to this? we are looking to do ours this colour and would be great for some confirmation!

Thanks!

[shanco73]

I have been planning on painting my van with rustoleum for a couple of years now (pronounced four) I have bought the rustoleum, I just have not got round to erm....... finishing the van yet, but am starting again now, anyway back to the point....

I have researched spraying rustoleum I have also researched appying it with the eralex hvlp system, I just think its a good machine, the 5500 seems to be a good one, around 200 notes though,

There are some posts on mig-welding.co.uk regarding painting tips and some specific posts relating to rustoleum, (also some links to club8090 from the mig-welding forum) and some specific to painting with hvlp systems.

The photos of the van on this thread do look very good, i hope i can get my van welded and painted this year....

[moz]

hi having a bit of a problem with my rustoleum red ral 3020 its more of a bright orange so went out and got a small tin of ral 3000 which is more of a deep orange i am after a bright red like a rosso or ducati red ive seen rawlins do a carmine red ral 2002 but is this another shade of bright orange? or do i go down the route of getting some mixed up i have sent rustoleum an email asking for some advice on the reds they stock / produce but know joy as yet

[bigherb]

Are you sure you mixed the paint properly. The pigment that makes red darker is heavy and sinks to the bottom. Tip the paint out and make sure it's not stuck to the bottom of the can.

[moz]

Are you sure you mixed the paint properly. The pigment that makes red darker is heavy and sinks to the bottom. Tip the paint out and make sure it's not stuck to the bottom of the can.

hi bigherb yes i mixed the paint the night before and again the morning before i started i also used the full 2.5 inside and out all the color was even.It was only when i got the van out into natural light you could see that it was a very bright orange.And even the sample tin of ral 3000 mixed and painted on a test patch was an even deeper orange