Broken Handle

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Sliding doorhandle broke off in my hand this morning

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Its a right hand drive, and so I need a left hand door handle.
BrickWerks are out of stock, where is the next best place to get one from?
And would I be able to use my lock in the handle?

[slowcoach]

Can it be welded in the meantime? I know id have a go. Got a feeling those are quite expensive? Mines the same type, and a bit goosed... But not snapped in two !

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I have never seen something like that welded, anyone know?
Some on VW Heritage if they are the right ones (left ones!)
You are right they are quite expensive, but quality maybe.

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Good instructions from Aidan on recent:
"Locks barrel removal" thread, good man!

[Aidan]

genuine left side ones in stock at Schofields, or were last time I looked

[ash1293]

IIRC you can fit a right handed one upside down - its just you will turn the key the otherway.

Pretty sure thats what I did when fitting mine, I used a 'cheap' brickwerks handle and it only required slight fettling to work perfectly.
9 times out of 10 it worked, occasionally it didnt seem to throw the lever quite far enough - added a small amount of material to the lever and been fine ever since, this makes far more sensewhen you have the bits in front of you.

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Ordered from Schofields thanks Aidan,
£65 free delivery too,
cheapest by far and genuine they say.

[Stesaw]

Ordered from Schofields thanks Aidan,
£65 free delivery too,
cheapest by far and genuine they say.

That's not bad, mines really shoddy so I need to pick up a new one, although I ordered one from Germany but I was over zealous with the order I think, I checked the part number and the info they had on ebay said it fitted 1985 1.9dg's, so rather than double checking the part number I ordered one.
Got it about a week later and it's the long handle version... sigh.
I'll just keep it and sell / exchange maybe if anyone ends up needing one.

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So I got it, next day delivery,
what a great service I have to say.
First purchase from Schofields and I shall be looking there again.

Thought to change the lock so the old key fitted,
however I did get into a bit of a mess..
The spring at the end kept jumping off,
and everytime I thought I had got it assembled,
the lock wouldnt work.
Worked fine in the old handle..

So it went back together with the new lock,
and I will have to suffer the extra key until I can get it sorted.
Do please offer any further tips.

Or maybe someone does offer a service to tumble the new lock?

Lots more pressing things to do here.

[Aidan]

iirc it's a case of placing the spring in the handle with a little bit of grease and using a screw driver to get it in the correct position and gently introduce the barrel with a key in it and gently manipulating it till it slips fully home so the slot for the grub screw lines up, it's been over a year since I last did this job when I swapped in my old barrel into a good used handle I bought on here which didn't have a barrel in it
I have the tumblers to retumble the lock, but you should be able to fit your old barrel into the new handle and then retumble the new barrel at your leisure

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Exactly so,
it would be great to get the new barrel re-tumbled.
I will try the old barrel back in the old handle..
but it just didnt seem to work any more.
the move to the new handle seemed to upset it somehow.
So sweet when the locks are working well.

Imagine somewhere one can buy a new lock barrel,
and have it tumbled to a particular key?

[Stesaw]

I've recently done my cab door locks as I got new handles ( mine were borked, snapped lever and springs and the handles themselves were corroded. ) the re-tumbling wasn't too bad, I made it more difficult for myself as I didn't check the wafer numbers from the lock I was trying to match to, so I spent a while trying differnt wafers in various combos ( got there in the end was a strangely therapeutic job to do... for a change! ). The springs were fiddily gits but a bit of grease seemed to keep them in place. I also found when putting the wafers in it is best to do it horizontally rather than vertically because then you get one of the other wafers/springs on the opposite side drop out.
Also when testing the key fit to slowly remove it and dont yank it out the barrel.. I only did that once, got wafers / springs everywhere.

Getting the barrel back in wasn't bad, the end spring was akward but I found putting the barrel in almost fully you can line the spring up through the side and pop it in with a flat head.. just don't push it too far in otherwise it borks the lock and you cannot fit it. Also make sure that the uh... sliding metal bar thing on the lock that moves as you turn the key is set right. ( not the best at descriptions )

The only problem I have with my locks now is as they are repros they ignition key wont fit the locks, ( something to do with the key type) so I have a key for the doors and a key for the locks.. which I don't really mind to be fair.
My old barrels look like I could clean them up and reuse them so I could have the same key for those as the ignition.. but right now it's no real biggie for me.

Imagine somewhere one can buy a new lock barrel,
and have it tumbled to a particular key?

Don't Brickwerks do that? like you send a copy of your key to them (pay a fee) and they do it for you?

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I shall send a sweet message to Michael at BW and ask.