Help required pleeaasse

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Help required pleeaasse

Postby sump » 07 Apr 2020, 19:36

Hi all, I have an 88 E reg with a 1.9 DG in it. Prob is the 2 hoses that run around the back of the engine bay the big ones. One has a 10mm pipe off it that connects to a metal pipe with a junction joint that includes an electrical connection. The other one also has 10mm take off pipe with broken bleed valve of some type on the end of it. I need to bleed the system but the valve don't turn. None of this looks anything like what's in ta book!
Any body know? :oops:
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Re: Help required pleeaasse

Postby ajsimmo » 07 Apr 2020, 20:55

That's weird. It appears you've got a late van with an early cooling system. Pics might help us get to the bottom of the conundrum.

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Re: Help required pleeaasse

Postby Mocki » 07 Apr 2020, 23:11

Yes sounds like the muppettry has been here before you, and you have a late van with early cooling system .... if that’s the case ,
Relax, for that bleed valve will be fine not opening , many early system vans now don’t even have that valve, just straight joiner to the metal crossover pipe and a bung in the other one , or a "Y" joining all .
You will be able to bleed fine as it is as long as it’s not stuck open.
Just raise the revs to about 2000 , top the header tank up to the brim , and open the rad bleed bolt , and keep pouring water in the header tank so it’s level is always full to overflowing .

You do need the heater on hot from the start til the end , and when you are long longer getting air from the rad, close the bleed bolt , top the header tank up to the brim put the cap on, then reduce the revs to idle . Give it 2 mins and switch off , go make and drink a brew . Come back in ten mins and open the rad bleed valve slowly and if coolant comes out but not air it’s pretty much bled .
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Help required pleeaasse

Postby sump » 08 Apr 2020, 17:31

Mocki wrote:Yes sounds like the muppettry has been here before you, and you have a late van with early cooling system .... if that’s the case ,
Relax, for that bleed valve will be fine not opening , many early system vans now don’t even have that valve, just straight joiner to the metal crossover pipe and a bung in the other one , or a "Y" joining all .
You will be able to bleed fine as it is as long as it’s not stuck open.
Just raise the revs to about 2000 , top the header tank up to the brim , and open the rad bleed bolt , and keep pouring water in the header tank so it’s level is always full to overflowing .

You do need the heater on hot from the start til the end , and when you are long longer getting air from the rad, close the bleed bolt , top the header tank up to the brim put the cap on, then reduce the revs to idle . Give it 2 mins and switch off , go make and drink a brew . Come back in ten mins and open the rad bleed valve slowly and if coolant comes out but not air it’s pretty much bled .


Thanks Steve, Sounds likely as the previous owner was a bit of lets say cheapskate being polite :roll:
Image

Image

Image

Image


Now found another problem the metal pipe along the top is leaking where the mounting bracket is attached to it. Thing is I can't see one on any of the parts drawings on JK BWerks or VW H????
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Re: Help required pleeaasse

Postby Mocki » 08 Apr 2020, 17:54

You won’t get that crossover pipe new, it’s obsolete
Mick at NWVW May be able to help , or McGill maybe .

Make sure you get the correct one for your carb, there is a difference between DG and DF on that pipe


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Re: Help required pleeaasse

Postby sump » 08 Apr 2020, 20:13

So do we have any numbers for these guys?

I was thinking maybe cut through the pipe where the hole is and sleeve it with a section of rubber hose. Any thoughts any one?
I know the rest doesn't look wonderful!
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Re: Help required pleeaasse

Postby Mocki » 08 Apr 2020, 21:00

Mick , NWVW number is 07968 367046

You might be able to cut and sleeve it , depending on if you have enough good unpitted straight metal to get a good tight fit on each end .
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Re: Help required pleeaasse

Postby sump » 09 Apr 2020, 08:14

Thanks Steve.

By the way how should all those pipes join together then on latter ones?

Also Steve
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Re: Help required pleeaasse

Postby Mocki » 09 Apr 2020, 10:37

The early cooling system is completely different to the late
This is what you have
Image
This is the late system

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Re: Help required pleeaasse

Postby Sir Brixalot » 09 Apr 2020, 11:42

I always thought that on the late system the big pipe behind the thermostat took coolant to the rad. On this it appears the flow is coming from the rad to the thermostat?
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Re: Help required pleeaasse

Postby Mocki » 09 Apr 2020, 12:20

yes, the thermostat is on the other end of the head , and the coolant that has been cooled comes from the rad back
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Re: Help required pleeaasse

Postby sump » 09 Apr 2020, 12:37

Either way they both look very complicated!

Just going to go and see if I can remove the top cross over pipe to inspect it. I'll report back later.
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Re: Help required pleeaasse

Postby sump » 09 Apr 2020, 19:05

Well got it off this afternoon. It don't look that good so I gave Mick a ring and he says to ring him Saturday Morning and he'll have a look but he knows he has some. So thanks a bunch Steve looks like you've saved another camper! Wife is threatening to list it on the bay site! :oops:
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Re: Help required pleeaasse

Postby Mocki » 09 Apr 2020, 19:37

Good, pleased to have been some help...
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Re: Help required pleeaasse

Postby Sir Brixalot » 09 Apr 2020, 21:35

Mocki wrote:yes, the thermostat is on the other end of the head , and the coolant that has been cooled comes from the rad back

That's interesting. When the head gasket failed, I noticed that pipe didn't get hot and thought it was the thermostat. Looking at the diagram it must have been a blockage in the rad. I'll need to have another look
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