Club 80-90 Forums

Posted: **11 May 2018, 15:40**

last clean up needed to fit heads, I like to use a nylon wheel to really get the aluminium oxide off, I think this is what causes seal failure.

P1100290 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

quick check of the gallery plug that I forgot to do before...looks fine

P1100298 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Got some brake cleaner as suggested by 937carerra, thanks.

cleaned seal surfaces

P1100303 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1100303a by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

cleaned nuts not happy with this one

P1100300 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

lucky I have some spares

then I noticed I can't count

P1100301 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1100302 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

this is where a bottle of the stuff is easier

P1100304 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

dry moly on studs

P1100305 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

green orings on

P1100306 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

sealant in gasket, this is where VR is easier than Dirko because you get a nozzle

P1100307 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1100308 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I'm using AF again, paintbrush gets a very thin even layer, this is a coarse bristle brush, fine can shed hairs you can't see

P1100310 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1100311 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

rings in and do the other side

P1100312 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

sealant on other side of water jacket seal

P1100314 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1100316 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

25Nm with dry nuts and leave for 30 mins to allow the Hymolar AF to creep out of the joint, just enough time to post this.....

P1100317 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

tencentlife wrote:
I recommend using Hylomar on the fire rings, it is a non-hardening elastomer specifically designed for this type of high-temperature sealing requirement with differential rates of expansion between elements (Rolls Royce developed it for their large jet engines). It must be used according to instructions, applying it to one part, smearing that part against its mate to create a film on both parts, then the parts separated and the volatile vehicle allowed to gas off for a few minutes. Then the parts are assembled and brought to 1/2 to 3/4 of full torque, then wait 20-30 minutes for the elastomer to "creep" under pressure, and finally bringing the fasteners to full torque. This means both sides of the fire rings must be coated and smeared to the heads and cylinder tops. The head capnuts can be first assembled dry, then after all have been brought to final torque, taken off one by one and retorqued with sealant. Hylomar can also be used under the capnuts, which will allow retorquing if ever necessary without the need to drain coolant, remove the nuts and apply new sealant, since the Hylomar never hardens. There are several variants of Hylomar, get the Advanced Formula ("Hylomar AF") for its superior workability, or the Universal Blue spray if you are willing to mask your parts carefully . There is a special solvent available as well, "184", which makes clean-up easy, although I believe acetone can also be used. Hylomar products are easily found on eBay or Amazon.

Posted: **11 May 2018, 16:03**

30 mins have passed so took nuts off one at a time and added yellow sealant and retorquesd each one to 25Nm

Marco Mansi Uses Dirko and Tencentlife suggests Hymolar but I have no real reason to try anything different.

P1100318 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

then finished the torque to 40 then 50Nm
always makes me nervous going to 50Nm
other side will have to wait until tomorrow

P1100319 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Posted: **11 May 2018, 18:02**

Looking good Paul - what that block needs now is some blue paint

Posted: **11 May 2018, 18:31**

300CE wrote:Looking good Paul - what that block needs now is some blue paint

yeh but apparently it's in short supply, some bloke in Kent bought the lot

Posted: **12 May 2018, 16:15**

Other head on today

P1100320 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1100321 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1100322 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

oil seal hammered in

P1100323 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

oil pressure relief valve in with new spring

P1100324 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

tighened with a pieve of sheel metal and a spanner, I wish there was a tool for this.

P1100325 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

late exhaust support brackets on

P1100327 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

stainless drain screws fitted with new copper washers, these didn't come with the VR kit which is disapointing, no oil filler pipe gasket either. Luckily I had some from an old elring kit.

P1100328 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I have assembled and fitted the push rod tubes with rocker covers just to keep dirt out, they will need to come off again when tappets go in.

P1100329 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Posted: **12 May 2018, 16:31**

itchyfeet wrote: oil pressure relief valve in with new spring

P1100324 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

tighened with a pieve of sheel metal and a spanner, I wish there was a tool for this.

P1100325 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Something very therapeutic reading this thread...................

..................... Try searching for a drag link socket. I picked one up a while back to nip mine up a little as was weeping.

Posted: **12 May 2018, 16:43**

ash1293 wrote:
itchyfeet wrote:
tighened with a pieve of sheel metal and a spanner, I wish there was a tool for this.

P1100325 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Try searching for a drag link socket. I picked one up a while back to nip mine up a little as was weeping.

ohhh thanks, I can find flat but not curved ones? I suppose I can grind a curve

can't see any in UK , maybe has a different name here

Posted: **12 May 2018, 16:51**

found this

https://www.tooled-up.com/elora-3-8-dri ... od/114042/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Posted: **12 May 2018, 17:50**

Mine was a bit of a random find on ebay, can't remember the exact search terms I used. About £4-5 delivered.

Posted: **17 May 2018, 17:30**

Got this on ebay, perfect, even has the rounded end

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ASL-SWINBOUR ... Sw5FJa-xFK" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

P1100338 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1100337 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I think he/she has loads becuse they have been on ebay for a while ( I found a link on a forum from years ago), don't all bid for the same item more will come I'm sure, as soon as mine was won another popped up.

Posted: **18 May 2018, 16:06**

itchyfeet wrote:Got this on ebay, perfect, even has the rounded end

That looks a better fit than the one I picked up - Its a nice feeling having a tool for the job, even if it is only used once in a blue moon.

Posted: **09 Jul 2018, 19:16**

Just found the 2.1DJ graph and scaled it next to the 1.9 DG
it shows the the reason I want this 2.1 DJ in my tintop
just got to find the time

DGvsDJ BHP torque scale by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Posted: **26 Oct 2018, 09:56**

WBX mayo has been under the bench in the shed all summer because I has another engine to fettle to go in my Lupo, that's going in today so the WBX is back on the bench and a little closer to going in.
As I keep injuring myself lifting heavy objects I devised a method of moving them from the hydraulic table to a wheeled trolley outside using scaffolding and the strap winch, worked great moved three engines in and out in no time with no effort.

20181026_103507 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Posted: **28 Oct 2018, 21:37**

That's a bit more elegant than my 'crane'.

Club 80-90 Forums

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