Club 80-90 Forums

Should the mains cable (240v) even have an earth to the body of the van is my question...? An internal fault in a socket could cause the van body to become a live....reach out of live van and touch grounded object and become the conductor..?

I'm no expert...but it just crossed my mind..

Even the PAS rack has grease on the rack and its guide bushes....put back the gaiters and and apply as needed...also the inner tierods won't mind a blob ...

Concentric offset= eccentric

Looks worthy...

I rather miss our old Combicool. Used to put it on 240v overnight to pull it down, fill with cold stuff and only put it on gas when parked up. Never failed. Dirty great CF-110 is twitchy and finnicky by comparison, always drops into error mode on 12v despite fat cables and a DIN plug. I suspect tha...

Good luck...maybe the bracket came off a scrap car...scrapyards tend to remove engines with excavators these days so bent parts are not unknown...hopefully your sorted now.

Here you go..don't worry about the first bit about the tensioner...also ensure the block and bracket are clean on the mounts...no paint build up, rust, etc.. http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/119Technical-1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I'm assuming this...

I have had this issue in the past...it s the bracket for the pump, solution is remove the pump, loosen the brackets 3 bolts to the block,push up on the rear of the bracket ( turn it anti-clockwise on the block) and re tighten...I know it barely even moves...but it works...I will try and find a link ...

Have you looked at the connectors on the relay plate back itself?

About those bolts...the clutch cover bolts on most of the newer stuff is M7...with a 9mm head...very high grade bolts...worth a look?

If you have a oil sucker or a vacuum pump of some sort the most effective method is to attach it to the pump return fitting and apply suction untill a pint or so of fuel is pulled ...crank the engine at same time if possible..works for me..

Dubholstery...Warrington I think...

Only time the double comes in is if a pipe join is made...but that's best avoided anyway and if done use a female-female joiner...and male pipe nuts with a din "bubble".

Turns out I have gunzl hose...via brickwerks...everybody is puzzled by this at the moment it seems...looks like a load of silicone sealer is going on with the pipe to fill in the pointless screw thread...the pipe is actually threaded LH and the tank RH..not that it really matters as the hose is smoo...

Actually 3/16 is not correct...and neither is SAE...the vans are German...metric...and the pipes are 4.75 mm...the flares are DIN spec which is very similar to look at but has a flat back...rather than a bubble...SAE will work...but technically incorrect and coupled with a cheapo nasty flare tool ma...