Club 80-90 Forums

I just changed the one that's half way on the master cylinder and my lights work fine now. I still can't find conclusive answers about the switch at the front, but when I get five minutes I'm going to change it for the same type. For now I've cleaned up its terminals, just because that's the kind of...

If you haven't already done it, you probably need to consider replacing the other switch as well - it sounds like they were both knackered. Well done. Thanks! And yes, I was wondering about the other switch. It took me a while to make up my mind which I needed to change because neither Haynes or Be...

Bridged the terminals with a bit of wire and lights came on, so I changed the switch and all is good now. It was possible to do without draining the system, and I only lost about 2 tablespoons of fluid in the brief seconds between switch changes. Caught most of the fluid in an aerosol cap stuffed wi...

I see on the wiring diagram that it's in the same circuit as the horn, so I traced and cleaned that earth (I happened to also have a non working horn) and everything is good there now. As I said, I gave the engine bay earths a clean, but suspect a couple may benefit from new connections. Being a Swe...

i have had quite a few electrical probs with brake lights etc, but a lot of them were fixed when cleaning up, replacing where needed the earth connector on the side of the body under dash behind fuse box. many terminations there... I've given them a good going over. I guess it wouldn't hurt to repl...

Bridge the spades to the switches with a bit of wire? If the brake lights come on then you know it's the switches. (This is presuming the switches make contact and not break contact when brake pedal pressed) I'll try that in the morning. All is pointing at the switch being fubared. I just hope chan...

I'm flummoxed. I did the volt reading at the cylinder switch again. With connectors on I get 12.25 Volts regardless of where the pedal is. Without the connectors I get nothing. But then again I don't know what I'm doing and the job needs 3 hands and eyes that see round bends. It got dark, but having...

I think I'm doing this right. I've set the meter to 20 on the side with a V with a straight line under it. I've earthed the black wire on a spare earth crown point and put the red wire on the terminals of the switch closest to the front of the van, with their wires connected still and depressed the ...

Set it to measure DC Volts. With the brake pedal pressed you should see 12V between each of the switch contacts and earth, on both sides of the switch. OK, that makes perfect sense so I'll have a look. I managed to make sense of the wiring diagram too, and it runs through a junction in the engine b...

Bulbs are fine yes. I have a multimeter but it's one of those tools I don't know how to use. Can You run me through it?

Hi all, I tried searching, tried Haynes and Bentley reading but I can't find a reason why my brake lights don't work. It's a 1991 LHD syncro doka with a 2.1 Mv engine. I've cleaned all the earths, checked all the fuses and cleaned the connections on the 2 sensors on the master cylinder. Still nothin...

regarding the mechanical bit it's well worth talking to Andrew at the Campershack in Grantham. Well worth the extra travel requirements. He steers well clear of bodywork though.

Well, camper has gone off for a new engine. I guess I could continue to mindlessly burn about as it's quite a quick little DG, but I'm in a good financial position for now so best get it done. I'm hoping to get a 2.1 in there, probably a rebuilt DJ running on a carb but waiting for guidance and dire...

Cif and a scourer. And then if you're fussy (or don't want frost to blow out any cracks)

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I think the black mirrors tie it all together better than if they were body matched. Proper smart looking van