Club 80-90 Forums

Actually, I think I’d suggest looking for an old Paulchen bicycle rack - it’s a modular system so they’re much more easily re-configured than a Fiamma rack would be.

Isn’t it supposed to be ‘thinner’ than water, so that it gets drawn further into cracks than water?

Before you go buying any parts it would be worth giving the earth crowns, and associated connections, a clean - a poor connection here can often prevent the headlights switching into main beam.

The mechanical issues don’t seem too extensive. More worrying are the possible corrosion issues - these vans should be bought in the basis of body condition first, and visible corrosion can often be an indicator of bigger issues behind. If you’ve got any clear pictures of the van and more specifical...

I’ve not done job this personally as we have a high top, but I know there’s a PDF copy of the German repair manual for the Westfalia camping conversion on the WestfaliaT3 website here: https://www.westfaliat3.info/March_1989_VW_T3_Camping_Equipment_Repair_ManualWM.pdf l’d head to google translate to...

From another thread: Body tinware 1-1.2mm not much difference to work with but the 1.2 is better to weld and work with gives good support when butt welding /letting in. 1.5mm for steps,lip and edge repairs,inner arch repairs (around seat belt anchorages)inside of B posts down to JP. 2mm reinforcemen...

You can either order a Certificate Of Confirmity from VW in Germany here, or you can try emailing the VW vehicle compliance department in the UK at type.approval@vwg.co.uk, who should be able to provide you with a letter confirming the date of manufacture of your van.

Our van also currently has a 1988 registration, but the birth certificate from VW actually shows that it was produced at the end of 1987. That means we'll be able to get it registered as a historical vehicle in 2028 instead of 2029, so it's definitely worth checking if you haven't done so already.

If you’re looking for something to chuck into every vehicle as part of a kit, then I’d agree that the best thing would be a high-extension bottle jack. They’re simple to use, easily stored without taking up lots of space, and relatively cost effective. If you’re out in the sticks you just need to ha...

The problem will be with the proliferation of ULEZ zones - before long they’ll join up in the middle.

The most active forum thread on this issue at the moment is this one: https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=177711 The consensus view in that appears to be that, with the exception of electric conversions, changing the engine will not allow a T25 to meet ULEZ requirements. TfL have stated tha...

The best people to speak to are probably AW Engineering in Darwen - they understand the different variations of 1.6TD so I’d expect them to be able to help you.

Some Audi, Golf and Passat cars, generally slightly earlier models, also had the RA code 1.6TD engine. Apparently it had a similar block to the SA but with a similar head to the JX, i.e., solid tappets.

Is it a 1.6 TD (Turbo Diesel) JX, or a 1.6 NA (Normally Aspirated) CA? With the 1.6TD a good start would be to ensure it's properly serviced so that its running properly. Then I'd suggest adding an oil cooler before you try things like an intercooler, or add a bit of extra boost, but be aware that's...

The only thing I can think of is that you swap the buckle / receiver for one with a longer stalk. That way there would be no difference in the method of attachment, and the receiver would still be a one piece fully tested item. You would however need to ensure that it doesn't clash with the child se...