Club 80-90 Forums

I think you're right, but they're the shift points for a 4-speed manual

So it does - thanks! Never thought of looking there

30mph for 1st, 56mph in 2nd, in case anyone else is intereted

I have a 2.0 CU with the 3-speed automatic. I'd like to know what the maximum speed I can go in 1st and 2nd is without over revving the engine. The speedo has the gear change dots on it but there are four sets of them so assume they're for a manual gearbox...?

My van seems to be idling on 3 cylinders - pulling the HT lead to cylinder 2 whilst idling makes no difference to the engine speed or tone. Pulling any of the others nearly kills it. Through the rev range it is fine (van's driving great), but trying to rev it whilst the lead is still disconnected an...

CFM Engineering in Reading. I only took it there to get the carbs set up on their rolling road... It was the first type 4 engine they'd done (should have run a mile after hearing that), but they do look after a fleet of bay windows for a local company so thought they'd be competent enough. I doubt t...

So, the van is finally back on the road and happy again. It was indeed the followers, see if you can tell what's wrong in this picture:

Well, the garage have finally got the engine apart and have found an incredible amount of wear on the followers - 5mm! The camshaft has worn a little too so I'm going to get that replaced. There was a layer of metal filings 3mm deep in the sump! The garage suspect the followers were re-ground, thus ...

Tread carefully before shelling out a load of money - I'm not sure dHla will fit - the standard upgrade is a pair of dRla dells (which are definitely recommended!)

Would be worth a spot of research because if they're comparable to drlas then that's a good price for an as-new pair!

Cheers,
Dickie

Kev - yes they were noisy. The last adjustment (a couple of months ago) required the locknuts to be fitted on the other side of the rocker to get enough thread out to seat the rocker properly. The garage were rightly very keen to stress that this was a temporary solution only and the root cause need...

Ta for the swift replies. It's run with 15W-40 oil, changed every 6 months. No oil pressure issues. Or perhaps I should say the dash light always stays off after starting. I thought it was the cam too - a worn cam was behind the rebuild two years ago (though looked like that was built into the previ...

I've run out of adjustment on my rockers and the garage (VW Centre in Farnborough) have discovered the hydraulic followers are heavily worn - so much that only two could be retrieved, the others appear to be burred to the point that a magnet won't pull them out, and the case is going to have to be s...

A single vacuum 'dual' advance one should be fine - if I understand correctly the vacuum retard function is to help emissions when idling so not that necessary.

I've had a cheap chinese eBay one fitted for years and it's been fine. Just be sure to avoid getting an 009!

So my 2.0 CU auto camper has developed a fun new quirk... If I start it and it only runs for a few seconds before stopping the engine, occasionally it will then refuse to start. This has happened with the engine hot and cold. The dash lights come on, the fuel pump whirs away but the final twist of t...

It does sounds like there's something wrong - my CU used to crack 70 on the flat (I only ever saw 80 down long, long hills...) on its original engine with a totally standard setup. Westfalia camper full of heavy furniture too. A few years ago I had to have the engine replaced and got a Vege one fitt...

Have wanted to sort out my droopy, hairy, bits-fall-off-and-get-sucked-into-the-oil-cooler original insulation since I got the van and never really found anything that seemed suitable. Until I followed your link - bought a sheet and fitted it today. Cheap, quieter than before and looks brilliant! Bl...