Rear jacking points shot?

[Bryce]

The springs look mighty crusty and the shocks are pretty bad as well.
The other side seems to have faired better strangely but still some worrying signs

In general it looks OK from a distance but I when I have gone digging in the past I've found a lot of filler

[lefty67]

And I thought my mot man was lenient!

[multisi]

As already mentioned, your trailing arms could be repaired. https://brickwerks.co.uk/blog/vw-t3-tra ... rm-repair/ that would save a load of dosh. What is wrong with the spring's and shocks?

The arms are rusted badly at the bush ends, they need replacing.

[T3luestar]

Blimey that's a lot of filler!
Just replace a trailing arm myself, I was surprised how bad it actually was once removing it and having a poke about.

[Bryce]

Blimey that's a lot of filler!
Just replace a trailing arm myself, I was surprised how bad it actually was once removing it and having a poke about.

Did you buy new or go second hand?

Guess it all hinges on having a look behind the panel above the jacking points. Will get the cutting discs out at the weekend and post some update photos.

If worse comes to worse is there specialist scrap companies that would pay more or would be case of me having to sell it by parts? Would love to have somewhere I could let it sit for a year and take it back to metal and start again

[Bryce]

Right I'm going to try and open it up to have a good look this weekend. Ive had a look through some old threads on the same subject but alot of the photos are now missing.

First question is what/how much to remove to get a good look. Would this be a good starting point?
Or should I be going bigger?

[SyncroMatt]

Before you go cutting into your quarter panel. Remove your rear wheel and look for the two blanking plugs that seal these holes.

Then you can look into the quarter panel and also the inner sill above the jacking point. Use a boroscope device if you can get your hands on one. Inspection mirrors and torches help too

You can also remove your interior rear quarter panel and look down into the outer section of the quarter panel.

[SyncroMatt]

If you cut into your quarter panel you will only see inside of that, not down in to your inner sill. The 1/4 panel interior can be viewed from inside the bus anyway once the interior panel is out of the way. With a boroscope or mirror and.light.

One of these photos shows the quarter panel where I had to repair the bottom edge, the inner angled support was fine.

The brown bus is an image I nicked from t'internet.

Personally I'd go the boroscope route first. You can also go through the holes in the inner sill.

Matt

[Bryce]

Thanks, Will do that this weekend. I did stick my finger in a hole somewhere near to there and it was full of flaked rust.

I guess I'm just looking for the extent rot in the pillar and sill? If that's good then then replacing the jacking point shouldnt be too bad? (famous last words)

Those pictures are really helpful cheers
Will try and get some pictures and post them up then go from there I supose

[SyncroMatt]

Here is another image I stole from online. With the rear quarter panel removed, showing the sloping support piece. Note the Peepy hole at the rear on the left and the jacking point at the bottom of the image.

Cut your panel out and this is the area you will see.

Have you been brave and attacked your inner sill with a stout screwdriver?

[SyncroMatt]

This is an image of the inner sill above the jacking point in the corner with the cross member. A favourite place for mud to sit and cause corrosion. This is actually a very solid bus but it had still rotted there.

Have a bit of a poke here, you might find it's a bit crusty. Can be repaired though

[Bryce]

Thanks again will update after I've been at it with a screw driver and camera.

It has had welding done around the sills before but from the other jobs I've found from the previous owner I'm not holding out much hope of them being done properly!

[multisi]

Do you have any photos of the rusting gutters, any serious rust up there would be a game changer.

[Bryce]

OK so had a little look before work and looks like the inspection/drain holes have been welded over in the past
As for the gutters the best I've got is this photo

I'm going to have to cut it open aren't I?

[multisi]

It will be a rusted mess in there for sure, you can go 2 ways to fix it, the expensive way would involve cutting a big portion off the ends of the cross member and replacing with the repair sections that Brickwerks advertise then build up the rest of the area and fit new jacking points.  The other method would be to add thick plates to the cross member to strengthen the area then repair the jacking points and maybe get some good second hand trailing arms.