JX crankshaft locking

[Oldiebut goodie]

I've never used a proper tensioning tool, I've got a pair of long nose pliers ground down to fit!

Wrong tool -  - belt tension tool.

[mrhutch]

I've never used a proper tensioning tool, I've got a pair of long nose pliers ground down to fit!

Wrong tool -  - belt tension tool.

Apologies, I thought the tool was for tensioning the tensioner, not measuring the tension of the belt!
 

[clift_d]

Apologies, I thought the tool was for tensioning the tensioner, not measuring the tension of the belt!

That's a whole other tool ... - Hazet 2587 / Matra V159

[SurfbusReborn]

I'm all good, thanks everyone,

I now have tensioning lever, tension meter, a replacement tensioner and plenty of instructions.
Think I'll change it every year just so I can get my money's worth out of my new tools!

Let's see what the weekend brings... hopefully not too much rain. 

Cheers

Steve.

[hubcap61]

Pretty much all places now sell refurbed pumps based on you sending in your old one in to replace their stock.

You can send it to a guy called diesel Bob who has a Web page and is well thought of and he can refurb it and send your original back.

Sounds like you doing exactly what I had to do! I had a leaking fuel pump and hard starting so took pump off and gave to a diesel specialist near me (£500). You then have to reset the timing which can be a bit fiddly.



That's the manual that had the photo and for setting the timing of pump Google vince Walden (I think) and have a read

Thanks Bryce,

I'll consider diesel Bob if the new injectors don't do the trick. My van starts and drives fine, it's just very smoky after startup. It does clear eventually. My Son followed me in his van to Busfest this year, and he said there was no smoke at all, but the MOT station said otherwise.
I'd initially thought it might be valve stem seals, but the MOT man suggested injectors.
I timed the pump on my Son's CS recently, so sort of know my way around. Hopefully the JX won't be much different, though I've already got stuck at the crank pulley 
Your manual looks a lot clearer than my Bentley so I will definitely try and get hold of a copy. Many thanks. Steve.

Just spotted this on Ebay. (not mine)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115598393816 ... R-a5ve-OYQ
 

[SurfbusReborn]

Ok Gang,

Today I got my van back together and running. While I decided to replace all the belts, oil and filters, the main purpose of this exercise was to solve the smoking issue, for which I replaced all 4 injectors with some of Brickwerks' finest.
The short story is it is now smoking worse than ever.
The smoke is mostly a problem on overrun. Big globs of black smoke occur when lifting off of the accelerator.
I did have to re-time the pump as it was reading 0.8mm and the spec. says it should be 0.83 - 0.97, so I timed it to bang on 0.9mm. Which I guess advanced it up a little, which may account for being smokier now?!? Although I've never noticed an overrun problem before...
A few of things of note:
The LDA was very sluggish. It didn't move at all when cold and moved only sluggishly and a small amount when warm.
The smoking got less when the engine got warm.
The engine has randomly developed a water leak at the front (gearbox end) cylinder head plastic manifold. It didn't have this leak when I parked it up a few weeks ago.
I was carrying out this investigation without the air filter fitted. I can't see this affecting anything but thought I'd mention it just in case.

All help and advice gratefully received.
Cheers. Steve.

[mioba]

I assume you have read Simon Baxters Definitive smoking thread.

The LDA gets really moving under load, not somewhat looking like a mechanic pushing the throttle cable. Hot or cold wont matter. I rebuilt-mine a few months back. The rubber diaphragm was split.

Remove the air inet, Push actuator with finger on pipe it should hold. Remove finger it should pop out - a test for leaks.

dont give up, dont get frustrated. its the beauty of ownership.


Did you lock your fuel pump properly. If smoking worse it must be a fuelling issue.

ps better with air filters on. Turbos suck alot.

[SurfbusReborn]

I assume you have read Simon Baxters Definitive smoking thread.

The LDA gets really moving under load, not somewhat looking like a mechanic pushing the throttle cable. Hot or cold wont matter. I rebuilt-mine a few months back. The rubber diaphragm was split.

Remove the air inet, Push actuator with finger on pipe it should hold. Remove finger it should pop out - a test for leaks.

dont give up, dont get frustrated. its the beauty of ownership.


Did you lock your fuel pump properly. If smoking worse it must be a fuelling issue.

ps better with air filters on. Turbos suck alot.

Thanks,
I'll give your leak check a go tomorrow.
There is quite a nice video on YouTube of an LDA working (google 'JX LDA'), and it's pretty active so I guess I was expecting this from mine.
I have read Baxter's thread and will keep plugging my way through it.
I am very sure the pump timing is good. I checked it many times and have all the right kit. I'll check it again tomorrow now the engine has run up to temperature. The one thing I didn't do is bleed my fuel filter (its new). There were a fair few bubbles in the fuel line, so I'll have a look at that too.
Thanks for the support.

[SurfbusReborn]

Today's update:

I bled the fuel filter and ran the van until no bubbles in the fuel line.
I leak checked the LDA. The diaphragm's fine.
Checked the pump timing again. It's spot on. I even retarded it back to bottom limit: 0.83mm.
All to no avail.
The fuel pump is now off except for the pulley, which I couldn't get to shift until I get some pullers. I'll get in touch with Diesel Bob in the week to see if he/they'll have a look at it for me.
More cold and wet weekends to come...

[Bryce]

After I set the timing on my pump and checked 3 times I had a similar issue, turned out even though my dial gauge showed the right number every time the diesel specialist said it was quite far out.

Still havnt worked out why. I remember coming across a similar post before I done mine about a guy had issues and it turned out he had set all the timings 180° out as you get two cam revolutions for every crank revolution? Might be something to check? I'm pretty new to all this myself so might be talking out my a*** ha

[Bryce]

Forgot to mention I was also told these engines came out the factory smoking and to not worry too much. The mot guy said emission test was done by sight so a fiar bit of wiggle room.

Mine passed before I had the pump rebuilt and it belched smoke on start up

[SurfbusReborn]

Forgot to mention I was also told these engines came out the factory smoking and to not worry too much. The mot guy said emission test was done by sight so a fiar bit of wiggle room.

Mine passed before I had the pump rebuilt and it belched smoke on start up

Hi Bryce,
My MOT man said my van took the smoke meter off the scale 
I'm still plugging away... Diesel Bob has my pump now. Hopefully I have more news soon.
Thanks for taking the time to help.
Steve.

[hubcap61]

Just a thought, i wonder if someone has had a play with the diaphram and spring preload to get a bit more oomph? Common tweak on Land Rover 300 tdi fuel pump. Turn diaphram too much will result in excessive smoke. Have done this tweak on a friends last 2 Discos.

[davidoft1]

Forgot to mention I was also told these engines came out the factory smoking and to not worry too much. The mot guy said emission test was done by sight so a fiar bit of wiggle room.

Mine passed before I had the pump rebuilt and it belched smoke on start up

They will always fail the way most folks mot them, leave them idling during the mot for an hour then do a smoke test , drive it until it’s properly hot , stick on smoke tester , receive a pass

[SurfbusReborn]

Unfortunately, the closest MOT station to me is known to be strict. I would have liked to have warmed it up first but that's difficult without an MOT, and there's no guarantee they'll look at it immediately when I drop it off.
hubcap's post about the diaphragm spring is an interesting one. The van is surprisingly spritely compared to my son's CS, but from what I've seen so far and deduced from meeting the previous owner, I would bet more on some cowboy work rather than some demon tweaking.

And on that note, things have got curiouser and curiouser...
I've spent another weekend down the rabbit hole with my old money pit.
The pump is now with Diesel Bob.

In the meantime, I have removed the turbo, intake and exhaust manifolds, as I've decided I wanted to have a look at it, and I want to at least replace the cylinder head gasket and valve stem seals (those sudden cylinder head water leaks after the van went to the MOT station have got me nervous). This was pretty straightforward; took only a few broken knuckles and several sheared studs.
The compressor side of the turbo - as expected from the Baxter thread - was quite oily... a good tablespoon plus of engine oil poured out of the inlet hoses, and the inlet pipes are caked with sludgy oil deposits.
When I got the van, it was hugely over-filled with oil, which I rectified when replacing the belts and injectors, so I'm not too surprised the inlet pipework is covered in oil. I'm more concerned with why the engine was overfilled with oil, as there's no good reason to do this on purpose.

What I am very surprised about, and would like people's thoughts/experience on, is that the turbo oil feed pipe was bone dry... not any oil whatsoever in the pipe or even at the oil filter adapter end?!?! I appreciate the oil will drain out of this pipe, but I expected to see some residue. Thoughts please? I haven't pulled the oil filter adapter apart yet but that is now on my list!

My paranoia is making me think that the oil feed to the turbo has been blocked to solve excessive seal leak within the turbo, or to raise the main oil pressure. The engine has perhaps then been overfilled to get oil to the turbo via the oil-drain pipe, as well as helping the main oil pressure. I guess I'll find out in time... I'll add a new turbo to the list!