Headbolt leak. Beginning of the End?

[weimarbus]

You should have no issues using the DF case and or crank and rods, as Itchy says only the cam and heads are different ( my buggy engine has a DF case).

due to the cost of the gasket sets and the fact that your 2.1 bottom end is ok , quickest job to keep you on the road would be top end rebuild on the 2.1. Depending on stud issues etc rebuilding the 1.9 is going to cost alot more eg crank grind, bearings, conrod bolts etc

[937carrera]

there are early and late DG's and DF's, difference being case and main bearings
Never stripped a DF but I believe everything is same as DG except heads and cam.

Agree with all that, as someone who discovered that I have a DF case with DG heads in my Autosleeper. (I bought it thinking it was a vanilla DF)

It'll do no harm spending a bit of time learning the job on stripping the DG, make sure you actually measure the endfloat properly before stripping. How are you for tools, do you have access to a set of vernier calipers as a minimum, 50-100mm micrometers and bore gauge so you can do proper condition assessments. (unless the components are so obviously knackered they need replacing). You will then have a list and cost for doing the DG rebuild, but on that list will be just a few of the components you need to fix the 2.1 properly.

I wouldn't be keen on continuing to use the van for "a few months" in its current condition, so I suggest you crack on with the DG split and then see if you can do the retorque. It's not the best time of year for this type of job without a warm garage, but I think you need to start picking those cold spanners up.

Do a new thread and be prepared to put some photos up, you'll get plenty of assistance

You should have no issues using the DF case and or crank and rods, as Itchy says only the cam and heads are different ( my buggy engine has a DF case).

due to the cost of the gasket sets and the fact that your 2.1 bottom end is ok , quickest job to keep you on the road would be top end rebuild on the 2.1. Depending on stud issues etc rebuilding the 1.9 is going to cost alot more eg crank grind, bearings, conrod bolts etc

I agree with all that too

[ajsimmo]

I've just reviewed the OP, and noticed the original fault described was a coolant leak from a head nut, rather than the compression gas leak into the coolant. This is more often the result of a snapped stud, and it may just be held in place by compacted rusty crud in the stud hole in the head! If that is the case, it's essential to identify the fault now before the pressure overcomes the retaining force, and the nut and stud portion fall out, losing most of your coolant at the roadside!
I'm not saying it is that, just that it could be and you need to know urgently.

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[itchyfeet]

rebuilding the 1.9 is going to cost alot more eg crank grind, bearings, conrod bolts etc

Not if you have serviceable parts from another engine, may just be the cost of a tube of Curil T.

[weimarbus]

Op's post mentioned horrible knocking on Cylinder1 and 2mm end float

[itchyfeet]

Op's post mentioned horrible knocking on Cylinder1 and 2mm end float

yes and asked about using DF parts so I assume he has one also, if you can make one good engine from two the cost is just gasket set and curit T

[maxstu]

Thanks a lot guys. A lot of important advice here.
To recap:

Secondhand replacement 2.1 carb LPG in camper pressuring coolant and showing antifreeze loss/staining around cylinder 4 headnut.

Original early DG 1.9 removed from camper after swallowing melted carb. Nasty knock when at TDC for number one cylinder and horrendous end play. Very small bits in engine oil. Minute deposits on back shoulders of valves. Not investigated further yet.

I may have access to DF casings but uncertain if early or late.

Limited personal funds/no driveway/ no offroad available/ rented leaky garage half mile away without parking/ no power/ plenty of tools/ two stroke rebuilds yes/ top end motorcycle build 1200cc x1/ local VW 'specialist' not interested because of notorious headstuds/credit card available with 22k limit.

[maxstu]

As the 1.9 is inside rented garage and lve spare time on my hands lm going to pull it apart first to see whats salvageable. If crank etc beyond service, then next step is to release head nuts clean threads and nuts, add curil and retorque 2.1. Not thinking beyond for now.
Gotta start somewhere though....

[itchyfeet]

release head nuts clean threads and nuts, add curil and retorque 2.1.

Not Curil. It's a yellow sealant that's recommended.

https://www.vwheritage.com/akd45600002- ... s-vw-spare" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Curil T is for case halves.

I probably have a sealed unused tube of the yellow I can send, it would be a couple of years old but I don't think it has a shelf life, let me look tonight.

[937carrera]

Sounds like a plan

Remember that the con rod bolts could well be stretch, so once they are released to inspect the crank bearings /journals you will need to buy another set.

When you turn to the 2.1, in case I haven't been clear enough, IMHO you do those one stud at a time, in the correct order. If Andrew gives different advice to me listen to him, he does WBX's work every day

[itchyfeet]

As the 1.9 is inside rented garage and lve spare time on my hands lm going to pull it apart first to see whats salvageable. If crank etc beyond service,

lets see what the damage is first, second hand parts are not so hard to find, I probably have a spare DG crank and some serviceable rods....etc..

Also have crank gear puller you can borrow

Photograph it extensively as you strip it and I recommend heating head nuts before releasing them with a blowtorch taking care to shield the valve springs from heat, even if studs are corroded if they don't snap you can put it back as a temporary engine.

[itchyfeet]

you do those one stud at a time, in the correct order.:

As you know I think this is a bad choice because I doub't it will work or last but sometimes needs must.

Remember if one snaps that is the end so if it's still derivable short journeys you may choose to wait until you know the state of the 1.9

If you do I would do one stud nut at a time but only torque to 40Nm then do the lot to 50Nm all in sequence.

I would heat each stud nut before removing it taking care to sheild the valve springs from heat, once removed thoroughly clean stud and nut with a tap.


seen this haven't you?

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=162895" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[maxstu]

Thanks. Have extensively read through your links, Paul. And many others, with thanks to respective authors too.
Starting thursday after painting hallway.

[ajsimmo]

Didn't I just say most of that?
Anyway, yes, one nut at a time, clean faces and threads, new yellow sealant on, do up to 30, repeat for other 7. Then torque to 40 in recommended pattern, then repeat for 50. Then go round again at 50 just to be sure. Sorry if I wasn't clear (there may have been an element of me subconsciously thinking I might be stating the bleeding obvious, and therefore failing to describe it adequately).

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[itchyfeet]

Yes you said stages, but I didn't read it