Club 80-90 Forums

Yep - tomorrow is another day!
I’ll spend the evening reading so that all details are firmly fixed in my head then I’ll approach it all with a clear mind in the morning. It can only be ignition or fuel related so I’ll look at every aspect of these until I find the problem.
Thanks to Paul I have back ups for all the major components so I am confident that some or all of these will help highlight the problem.
I very much hope that tomorrow evenings update is much more positive.
Thanks again for all the input, much appreciated

A frustrating morning........
I removed the dizzy, reset the timing, replaced dizzy (Paul’s which is thought to work).
Tried the dizzy in conjunction with new cap and rotor arm. Tried it with Pauls ignition system - no change.
Swapped my carb for the one Paul lent me - no change.
Removed all plugs, they are wet and smell of petrol. Have thrown petrol down the carb but still won’t fire.
In fact, it has stopped coughing and popping through the exhaust.

Having coffee before I go insane.
Want to go back and, as suggested, check the spark to every plug - unfortunately, I don’t have an assistant to turn the key. Is there a simple way to simulate the ignition so I can be stood watching for the spark?
Cheers

did you do the test with the plugs laying on the engine or grounded safely to check you have sparks?

leave plugs out for a bit to let it dry out

unlikely carb withall that fuel it's got to be ignition IMO, cap rotor arm king lead all are suspects as it a flooded engine

checked for compression didn't you?

I have just removed the dizzy, reset TDC for cylinder 1.
Refitted dizzy - the mark on the side lines up with rotor arm and position for lead 1.

Plugs currently out - want to test the spark to each of them before refitting but have nobody to turn the key....

I have two sets of plugs to check and two sets of leads. Will use your ignition system as we know it works.
Just need an assistant, unless there is a way for me to simulate the key turn from the back

Using a fresh out of the box Beru cap and rotor arm - delivered from BWs two weeks ago.....

And it’s just started raining.....

You could hotwire the connection to the solenoid on the starter so you can operate from the engine bay, not ideal, but if you really haven't got a helper it's an option. Maybe use the spare ignition switch you have.

Alternatively, can you video the plug while operating the starter from the cab ?

You've eliminated the hall sender by using Pauls dizzy, right ?

Have you made sure that number 1 is on the compression stroke when the dizzy is pointing at number 1 ?

I doubt it is compression as it ran fine to your holiday location, but easy to check to eliminate that as a potential issue

Snowmark wrote:
Plugs currently out - want to test the spark to each of them before refitting but have nobody to turn the key....

you can pull the solenoid trigger wires of the starter then make up a lead with a spare and touch the other end on the stud in black box ( 12V) and it will crank.

assuming you are using my clip on coil arrangement then you no longer need a key

I shall rig up a lead.
Yep, using your ignition system.
Quick question - with the dizzy fitted and rotor arm on, should the rotor arm be easy to turn? I’m not intentionally trying to turn it but whilst rotating the dizzy body to set the timing often I caught the rotor arm and it’s spun away from the timing mark on the dizzy - should it be this easy to turn?

Snowmark wrote: Quick question - with the dizzy fitted and rotor arm on, should the rotor arm be easy to turn? I’m not intentionally trying to turn it but whilst rotating the dizzy body to set the timing often I caught the rotor arm and it’s spun away from the timing mark on the dizzy - should it be this easy to turn?

Not if the distributer drive is properly engaged in the case and the rotor arm is fully located on the dizzy shaft.

Sounds like you need to be removing the dizzy drive for inspection of the gear, but there be dragons.

It's about 35 years since I last did that with engine in a vehicle and the special piece of wood I made up to perform the job is long gone. Paul will have more recent experience on how to do that safely

Well, the dizzy is seated as low as it will go and the rotor arm is sat properly - I can rotate the rotor arm with a single finger, or rotor arm off and the dizzy shaft turns easily.....

I think I know what’s coming - does this mean that my drive gear is shot?

I think so - and you did hint at it fairly early on in the thread too.

Don't panic yet, see what Paul thinks

To check, if I remove the dizzy I should be able to turn the dizzy drive using a screwdriver in the notches where the dizzy sits, correct?

* shouldn’t

Correct, the dizzy gear should be engaged in the drive gear on the crank, not movable without crank rotation.

Alterntively, it could be the woodruff key on the crank than has broken. I have a WBX in pieces and can do photos if you want