Club 80-90 Forums

Yesterday I had to bridge the terminals on the fan power supply as it appears my thermoswitch has expired!

so we drove home with the fan running permanently...but it was cool

I'd like to fit a chicken switch, but have got a bit confuse by the threads on here

I have an A reg with twin speed fan. Originally a 1.9dg if that makes any difference

Have the biggest rad possible when it was replaced

So...is this something I can do myself with instruction?

I know there is a fuse. I know there is 12v in at the plug. I know the fan comes on when I bridge the contacts, but not when I use the thermoswitch.

New thermoswitch on order...but would like to be able to flick the fan on should I think it necessary. Think I would like to engage stage 2 so I can hear it running.

What do I need to buy?

regards

Emma

a 30amp switch and two bits o wire,
wire it where you bridged the thermoswitch, with the switch to make and break

Thanks Mocki!

that seems like something I can do

When you say bridge it....I just pushed the wire in the contacts... Guess I'm going to have to trace the wires back and cut them. I'm not a fan of scotch blocks...?

Em
x

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wago 222 connectors are great

Thanks Itchy - I'll see what I can sort


right. I have ordered some. The three connectors like the ones in your picture. Hope that's right. Not sure how I wire in the switch though! I'll have to think on it and work it out in my head

My chicken switch fitted where dash dimmer was. As i'd switched to low power LED dash lights, the dimmer was no longer needed so cut it away from headlight switch and that gave me a suitable place to mount chicken switch. Ofcourse, every time this subject rears its head theres always someone who claims a chicken switch is not needed. Yeah, right

CovKid wrote:My chicken switch fitted where dash dimmer was. As i'd switched to low power LED dash lights, the dimmer was no longer needed so cut it away from headlight switch and that gave me a suitable place to mount chicken switch. Ofcourse, every time this subject rears its head theres always someone who claims a chicken switch is not needed. Yeah, right

My thermoswitch died. Last month it was fine. The fan ran. On the A2 in stationary traffic and 24 degree heat the engine was going to overheat. Thankfully due to this club I knew how to a) check the fuse, and b) bridge the contacts to make it run. A rough and ready chicken switch.

I avoided a breakdown. A chicken switch would have prevented 10 mins roadside on a dual carriageway a road with no hard shoulder....

so....while it shouldn't be needed.....I needed it

ermie571 wrote:Thanks Itchy - I'll see what I can sort


right. I have ordered some. The three connectors like the ones in your picture. Hope that's right. Not sure how I wire in the switch though! I'll have to think on it and work it out in my head

cut the Red/White ( power) wire and and re join with the wago 222. Each lever terminal takes one wire so the two cut and stripped ends of fill two of the three positions.
all three of the wago 222 positions are connected together.

now you have a spare position on the conector to go to the switch with an extra piece of wire
most switches are spade connections

then repeat with red/blue wire to other side of switch

Thanks Itchy - I had come to that conclusion with pen and paper and scribble

But very nice to have my thoughts confirmed

In words of one silly bull too!

that will be done this weekend.

Along with a new thermoswitch....over to Brickwerks I go

E

It was a long time ago but I think when I did mine I ran a bit of 2 core cable through the original grommet for the standard loom and connected it at the thermo switch using piggy back connectors. For a switch I used a heated rear window switch and fitted it where I had a blank in the dash so all looks original and has a little led on the switch so I know it’s on too.

For those unfamiliar with the concept, and having had the chicken switch a few years now, I wouldn't be without it. You can manually beef up the cooling rate in heavy traffic if you're paranoid (hence the phrase 'chicken' which still amuses me) and it acts as an additional belt n braces approach should the thermo switch fail. Obviously if you run out of water the switch is irrelevant and for the most part you don't/shouldn't need it, but when you do.....

A worthwhile mod. Switch can be under dash if you like but its peace of mind to have one.

Im going to jump in on this also. I was stuck in traffic on a hill the other day. Needle was climbing up, got so paranoid that I put the heater on hot and switched the blower on. The fan did come on the first stage but just to be sure. I was sweating buckets but the needle went down so this will be good to do. Ordered a 30amp switch and 5m of 2.5 single core wire. Have the connectors. Will have to wait till the switch comes from China.

Sounds easy as I was over complicating things.

Cut the Red/White ( power) wire and and re join with the wago 222. New wire to Switch.
Cut the red/blue wire and do the same.

I have ordered a Switch with a light, so that has an earth connection so presumambly I need to run a earth wire from the new switch to a suitable place.

If I do all the above, I should be able to hit the button, then the high speed fan will come on with a red light to tell me that I have done so. Hit the switch off, fan stops and light goes off. What could possibly go wrong.

ermie571 please let me know how you get on

Has anyone fitted an in-line coolant pump and would this help?


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crazyhorse wrote: fan will come on with a red light to tell me that I have done so.

Are you deaf? you really don't need a light to know stage 2 is on.

itchyfeet wrote:

crazyhorse wrote: fan will come on with a red light to tell me that I have done so.

Are you deaf? you really don't need a light to know stage 2 is on.

Ha, music is always cranked to 11