Club 80-90 Forums

those so called 'intelligent' split chargers are anything but, they cant tell which battery is at the higher voltage, so you have two options, set the switch on voltage higher , or install a manual switch, thus making it less intelligent than a bog standard 70amp auto relay with a trigger wire ......

I use the MT1 with my photonic universe controller
I look at it quite a lot when camping and reliant on battery power.

chewbacca wrote:Also, don't waste your money on fancy displays and the like.
You'll be interested in how much current it produces for about a week, then you'll wish you had spent the money on beer.

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I stand corrected.

Mocki wrote:those so called 'intelligent' split chargers are anything but, they cant tell which battery is at the higher voltage, so you have two options, set the switch on voltage higher , or install a manual switch, thus making it less intelligent than a bog standard 70amp auto relay with a trigger wire ......

Mine doesn't pretend to be smart. Put an amp maximum into the starter battery, rest goes to the secondary bank.

Ok - so at the risk of being laughed out of here, and after reading all this thread...... the sparky friend of ours connected up our new solar panel, and has rewired all interior camping electrics following us building a new interior. I do profess to know less than nothing about electrics! we have a simple system (I think). Leisure battery being charged now by solar but I think there is also a split charger so it charges as driving. last night the solar controller panel was showing 12.5 (with panel not plugged in as he's left it like that). Plugged in overnight and it's up to 12.9. Now I guess he has set it up correctly so that the controller knows not to overcharge, but what reading MAY it go up to? while still being safe and working as it should? for now I've unplugged as it's going to be a scorcher and don't want to get home to a charred wreck! Am I worrying over nothing - am waiting on a message back from sparky as hoped to see him to run through it. In the absence of that, thought I'd ask you lovely lot - sorry if this has been covered before. I did check but all double dutch to me.
Thanks in anticipation.

Seconded. Rev counters are much the same

CovKid wrote:Seconded. Rev counters are much the same

Having one os very usefull if you've removed the limiter.

helen wrote:

rsz_1camper.jpg

Ok - so at the risk of being laughed out of here, and after reading all this thread...... the sparky friend of ours connected up our new solar panel, and has rewired all interior camping electrics following us building a new interior. I do profess to know less than nothing about electrics! we have a simple system (I think). Leisure battery being charged now by solar but I think there is also a split charger so it charges as driving. last night the solar controller panel was showing 12.5 (with panel not plugged in as he's left it like that). Plugged in overnight and it's up to 12.9. Now I guess he has set it up correctly so that the controller knows not to overcharge, but what reading MAY it go up to? while still being safe and working as it should? for now I've unplugged as it's going to be a scorcher and don't want to get home to a charred wreck! Am I worrying over nothing - am waiting on a message back from sparky as hoped to see him to run through it. In the absence of that, thought I'd ask you lovely lot - sorry if this has been covered before. I did check but all double dutch to me.
Thanks in anticipation.

the controller will shut off the charge once the battery is full, itll read upto about 14.8v whilst charging, thats all good, but wont be putting any amps in once the battery is charged...

a fully charged battery will be 12.6v - 12.9v standing ( no drain, in the dark )

you dont need to disconnect it , fit and forget !

Cheers Mocki!! Mind at rest now

helen wrote:Cheers Mocki!! Mind at rest now

We are at 14.4 this morning.....watching and waiting..........

I've just had the same controller as Helen fitted. I know the settings can be adjusted in terms of what the 'trickle' charge etc. can be set to once battery reaches a set capacity...problem I'm not sure what figures I should have the controller set to? Currently it will just be running whatever they are set to out of the box. Thanks in advance for any help and knowledge )

During the summer I tend to do 75% leisure and 25% starter battery. During the Winter I do 50/50. Not sure if it makes that much difference since they're both always up to charge regardless of settings but my leisure battery is a whopper. Again, this is why I think switching to a more expensive MPPT controller is a waste of time if the charging meets my needs. I'd never get my money back

In answer to Stoney25, this is the controller I'm using. Fairly sure it was about £19 when I bought it (ebay listing below). I chose 20A version rather than 10A one. Works very well anyway. I've never seen battery charge indicator go below green in two years. Most of the time (as today) both were flashing so well up to max, and it was like that through the Winter. I last drove it in November 2017. If I put the key in, it would start no probs.

Actually, the MAIN reason I bought it was for Winter starting as I was doing short jaunts to work and back and battery was barely charged. In the Summer I don't even think about it anymore. Leisure normally at full charge by 8am - presumably because the slight curve of my tintop means I get sunlight quite early. I have 2 x 100 watt flexible panels, the controller below and a whopping 180ah truck battery. Fair bit of trial and error to get to that point but overkill on everything was the right way to go. If I had any advice it would be to double what you think you'll need. If you opt for less, you end up spending twice in the long run. Min 150watt panel, no less than 110ah and preferably bigger than that, and a 20a dual controller.

Not carting along power-hungry TV screens is also important. Manufacturers rarely give much precedent to efficiency so worthwhile putting a power meter on anything you buy so you know what is likely to sap your battery. I soon worked out that sitting closer to a tablet was a better bet than a giant screen.

Lots of ways you can do solar. Theres no right or wrong way and some like fixed panels etc but I just wanted something that always works and unseen unless I'm stood on something to look at roof. I also got rid of those horrendous plugs you get with panels and fitted a small waterproof junction box on the roof so I only had one cable coming in. Neat and tidy. I NEVER look at the controller or battery voltage now. Its proved its effectiveness. I only looked today to take pic below. Controller £19, panels £200, big battery (less than 10 months old) - £50. I figured what I might lose in having fixed flexi panels is gained in the combined wattage. Redundancy approach.



On ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20A-12V-Dual ... Sw1YRZoOM6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I use the same controller Ralph.
I added a changeover relay driven from the D+ of my alternator which switches the controller feed to alternator when driving and solar when stopped.
Not recommended if you have a high output alternator as you might blow the controller.
150W solar and 2 x 110AH leisure batteries keeps things running 24/7.

Dubworth wrote:I've just had the same controller as Helen fitted. I know the settings can be adjusted in terms of what the 'trickle' charge etc. can be set to once battery reaches a set capacity...problem I'm not sure what figures I should have the controller set to? Currently it will just be running whatever they are set to out of the box. Thanks in advance for any help and knowledge )

The capacity doesn't really matter, it will charge to 14 odd volts.
What it sits at after charging matters more.
12.6 is considered 100%
If it doesn't sit at 12.6v with nothing connected then it is not charging to full capacity and can be considered for replacement

It is interesting to look at some of the solutions to charging batteries that takes place on yachts/canal boats. They have massive leisure batteries and starter batteries which have to be charged quickly.
Our yacht has a Sterling Latch VSR. It can be set to be bidirectional - in other words it will charge either way, from Solar to starter or from Starter to Leisure battery, whichever has got more than the maximum set voltage. So when left in the boat yard the Solar panels keep the Starter battery topped up as well as the Leisure batteries, to which the Solar panels are connected. When you start the engine the high voltage from the Alternator switches it the other way and it charges the leisure batteries. Simples! If either of the batteries drops below the minimum set voltage the relay disconnects the batteries from each other, keeping the charge in the higher battery.
It has been on the yacht for 7years, 24/7 and works well, if a bit complicated to understand.
It is a LATCH VSR and this means it does not use current and get hot to keep it connected. It uses a bare minimum to sense the voltages.
No connection with the firm. Their web site is http://www.sterling-power.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. Have a look.