Club 80-90 Forums

No, some time ago.

Velle passed its MOT today, so some good news at least. I've driven 4000 miles this year, that's OK by me.


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HT leads measure 6000 ohms, King lead 2000 ohms so ok. Cylinder one, inlet and exhaust open, rotor arm in this position at TDC. So I'm happy with TDC and HT leads on 1432. Put another battery on, but still nothing.
I did swap this distributor out on my last build for new as I was having similar issues, but resisting this time spending £100 on a new one.
So, measured the voltage into the 3 pin connector for hall sender with ignition key on, it gave:
pin 1/GND
pin 2/7.8V
pin 3/11.1V

Better check the amplifier next.

something wrong with those adjusters, way too far in.

compression test needed.

you can check you are getting a spark by taking plugs out and laying them on the engine with leads connected

this is what you usually expect to see, my guess is the tappets have bled down and you have wound them in way too far

P1050894 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Great stuff, thanks Paul. Makes perfect sense, valves are not closing like this so there is not the enclosed chamber as it were, for the explosion.

Set adjusters and now have compression ranging from 105-115 psi on all cylinders, popped the spark plugs back in and boom, it fired up!
Bit rough obviously, timing, idle to do, but another hurdle passed

bet you have a big grin on ya face

Fun, Anger, Frustration, Joy...repeat

I have to replace the accelarator cable now, boo. As I have no way of opening my drivers door (tiny garage) I am sensing a Yoga-type lying on back, head torch, trying to find a tiny pedal split pin moment approaching!
Things to do:

• Wiring
  Set Idle
  Timing
  Coolant
  Drive!
  Welding
  Paint

etc...

But all in all; today is a good day

Why the pipe from waterpump to thermostat housing?
The connections are for oil cooler on a 2.1, to add it on a 1.9 just adds an unnecessary short circuit and does not help flow through the radiator.

Probably not going to affect the cooling much but not helping.

Just saves me blanking them off.

Todays challenge - accelerator cable. I have what must be the old injection cable with just the plastic button in the engine bay (figure 1) and need a cable end for the carb. (figure 2) Looks like I’ll need to push cab out of garage to get indicator lens off. I may swear today, at some point.

you can drive a vehicle a short way with your starter motor

FRHS Indicator out

Annoyingly impossible to reach 8mm bolt thing

Cable snatched back so couldn’t pull new one through using old one, over fuel tank.
You know, usual stuff
All done.

IT's ALIVE !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3ApoGpkG44" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Excellent work

Disclaimer, for those of you with a nervous disposition look away now..



Engine had a oil and water leaks, so kind of knew this engine was coming out but tried nipping up the heads bolts (already at 50Nm) to avoid taking heads off and this happened. Don’t do this!

I did not use sealant on the inside lip of the water gasket, just the flat edge (as per Haynes) but maybe I should have.

So; had the engine back out in just over an hour and it’s back to the naughty shed for this pup.




The Story Continues.

My very generous neighbour is offering up his 2.1 crank and MV pistons, but I’ve never done a bottom end rebuild before. You guys may not have the patience, watching me do that too!

I built 2 engines last time! Might change my call sign to “2 eng-tin”

Martin.

Sealant on flat edge ok. So it’s almost definitely the lack of sealant in the lip is the issue.