Club 80-90 Forums

Could any of you clever people tell me if the number 1 fuse (30a) which I believe is radiator fan and number 2 fuse (10a) which I believe is the brake lights should be permanently live. I have a flat battery issue (battery less than a year old) and have been doing some digging, alternator belt renewed and correctly tensioned, volt reader plugged into cigarette lighter and have 11.2v with ignition on (usually higher but battery not fully charged) going up to 13.5 with engine running. Is that enough or does it show poor alternator performance? With a bulb tester on the fuses the only ones to illuminate the bulb with the ignition off are the two I mentioned earlier, is this normal? I have periodically removed and cleaned the major earth connections so am pretty sure issue is not there. Any thoughts gratefully received.

You should really be getting over 14v at the alternator.Try replacing the regulator.I suggest you get one from Brickwerks rather than ebay.

Usual suspect for voltage losses are duff battery or stereo radio preset memory (or other small drain). Deffo replace reguiator as a start. You can get 14v and 14.5v versions - Heritage sell them too. As an aside, most T25s now suffer from fraying/corroded main cables (it is 30 years now) and that can have quite an impact on charging and starting. All in the WIKI if you want to upgrade them. You'll get brighter lights too.

Thanks guys, will look into it.

and radiator circuit is always live otherwise the fan wouldn't continue to run after you switch off after a hot journey. Its meant to work like that. Most cars are. My 450 Smart certainly does.