Club 80-90 Forums

And I thought it would and should be good news,,, after 8 weeks of bodywork repairs and getting excited about doing the refurb...

Well, driving home today.. from Nantwich to South Wales.. circa Monmouth.. a good 2 hours into Journey listening to 5 live, I started hearing what sounded like a thin piece of metal wire floating around near the tyres, couldnt make it out if it was front or rear definatley passenger side. Turned radio down, only happend when moving.

Then on the a449 just before the M4 junction passenger side wheel juddered and then statted rubbing (might be binding), I slowed down and pulled into a lay-by. Felt like the front tyre was rubbing and holding back.

The result of waiting 2 hours was this

IMG_2755 by Crazy Horse, on Flickr

followed by a 40 mile journey on this home.

IMG_2759 by Crazy Horse, on Flickr

Van has recently 2 weeks ago just passed the MOT, no issues with brakes.

Now where to begin?? Any ideas?? I know I havent given much info here, but with no tools and being dark I thought Id ask for maybe some pointers on how to tackle and maybe diagnose this tom morning. Is there a simple test to do apart from Jack van and see it moves freely, then take it from there.

Loose wheel nuts

Jacked wheel up this morning, wheel is well loose on drum, it like its not sitting properly. Holding at 3 and 9 oclock position i can move it back and forth well easy. Bolts are tight as.. cant get them off. Will go to halfords and get a wheel brace and get tyre off

Well the wheel bearing has gone.

Looking at giving this a go myself.

Any tips??

Found this, very helpful.

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=122485" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Have orderd kit from Brickwerks, anything else i need to consider??

In post it mentions drift to tapper bearings, what is this?? will a small flathead do??

Getting the hub nut off (and back on again) is apparently a big job, due to the massive torque figures required. Some use unfeasibly long scaffolding poles.... And if it's not done up tight enough, you'll be replacing the bearing again pretty soon.

tforturton wrote:etting the hub nut off (and back on again) is apparently a big job, due to the massive torque figures required. Some use unfeasibly long scaffolding poles.... And if it's not done up tight enough, you'll be replacing the bearing again pretty soon.

Thanks for the tip,

orderd a breaker bar.

it just passed the MOT and was tightend as there was play in it, could it have been tightend too much hence the failure??

read that it shouldnt be too tight, tight enough to move the thrust washer with a screwdriver or finger??

It needs to be really tight. Can't recall the figure off-hand, but this has been covered many times on here. Look for 'rear hub nut' or something similar.

I'm talking about the hub nut, not the bearing nut. From the Wiki....

Rear hub nut on all T25's - 500 N-m (360 lb-ft) then next split-pin hole
Wheel nuts/bolts on T25's (Lug nuts in the US) - 180 N-m (133 lb-ft)
Front drive-shaft/hub nut (SYNCRO ONLY) - 350 N-m (258 lb-ft)
Wheel-bearing nut correctly for 2WD NON-SYNCRO - Read service manual/instructions to set, do not torque load this nut!

To remove rear hub nut - either shock it loose (General EMPI Rear hub nut spanner) or circa 500 lb-ft could well be required. Follow service instructions on using vehicle weight and wheel on ground to restrain hub movement when loosening.

I think he is talking about the front wheel bearings, lots of info and photos/diagrams and torque figures in the Haynes workshop manual. If you are going to work on your van you need one !

Its the nearside front not rears.

Got manual. Waiting for parts. Dont really want to give garage £100 when i can hopefully do it

Apologies, I thought it was the rear hub you were talking about.
Good luck. Let us know how you get on.

Waiting for Parts for this..

Have a day off thursday so hopefully all will be here.

One thing that worries me is putting the bearing in. I have no 'drift'. Can I do without??

When I did my front bearings I replaced the disks as well.
If your disks look at all pitted or worn it's worth doing them at the same time.
It all went so easily I thought I'd forgotten something. way easier than the rears.

Don't use a screwdriver as a drift, screwdriver is too sharp and does damage when it inevitably slips.
You'll also likely smash the handle of the screwdriver with the hammer.
you need something to use as a drift, something with a squared off end, I used a bit of 10mm steel bar I had lying around, round brass bar is best if you can get it but square or even hex bar will do as will steel if you're careful.

When drifting the new bearings in you can use the outer race of the old bearings to hammer against so you're not bashing the new ones.
Drift the outer races in separated from the inner race, don't hammer on the inner race or you'll damage the bearing.
As long as you're careful and make sure the bearing outer race is sitting square to the hole before you start tapping it in there's no reason you can't do it yourself.
Work your way round, tapping at opposite sides and don't try and do too much with each tap of the hammer, ease it in, don't mash it in.
Double check you've got them the right way round before you drift them in, you'll feel like a right numpty if you get them the wrong way round.

You're right about not over tightening the fronts, just tight enough so you can still move the washer but only just move it is correct.
It's the rears that need to be seriously tight.

Hope that helps.
BBB.

I found that my wooden peg mallet was the perfect size for a drift - held one face square against the bearing then hit the other face with a hammer.

Thanks chaps,

Bits arrived today, so if the weather holds out should be doing it tom, will probably take all day...