Club 80-90 Forums

Did this today on stage 2 as both wires are inside the cab and stage 2 is low current as it just feeds a relay
To do stage 1 needs a high current switch and wire and an external water proof connection.

Red/White ( power) to red/blue just above fusebox, ths is a parallel switch to the thermo switch in radiator.

I'm sure it's been covered before but pics to share as usual



Hole was already there so may as well use it



E D I T 2018, pbucket pics will probably die soon so here are some more......



Here is a guide for a late van RHD 2 speed fan.....

You are adding a switch here between red/white and red/blue this essentially does the same job as the 102 deg C switch ( stage 2) in F18 which is your rad temp switch.

As you can see it only triggers a relay but best to use a 30A switch to make sure it's a good one.
The circuit has a 30A fuse so if any of the wiring was to short there the wires at 1.5mm2 and 30A switch can handle it and blow the fuse before melting.
you also need 30A connectors which is why I recommend Wago 222, pretty much idiot proof.

chicken switch wiring diagram by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

drop down glovebox by bending tabs

P1100280 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

remove fusebox screw and lift fuse box off pegs

P1100281 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

chicken switch fusebox by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

locate red/white and red blue wires, cut them strip then and rejoin with wago 222 connectors, then add 1.5mm2 switch wires to a 30A switch located in a suitable position.

Chicken switch by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1100279 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I always thought that the stage 1 switching was dealt with by the relay on the fuse/relay board.

Belay that - it is the other way around, stage 2 is dealt with by the no. 5 relay/fuse board with the 30A fuse according to the diagram.

yep wiring diagram here...
http://syncrosport.com/info/wiring/T3_Radiator_Fan.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
3 way commoned connectors are Wago 222 or 221 32A simple easy, available in 2,3 and 5 way.

There appears to be differing use of relays - the relay position diagram and the one you linked to.
I have a 40A relay in position 5 (radiator fan) on the board and the 50A radiator fan one by the earth crowns. ( I have always assumed that someone had previously used a 40A rated one instead of 30A on the board) So there would be no need for high rated switches as both the circuits are already covered by relays.

Just googled the no.53 relay - it is supposed to be 40A.

Stage 1 deffo does not have a relay ( it would not need 2.5mm2 if it did ) relay by earth crowns is a diesel thing I think.

There is something odd here somewhere - I have looked at the wiring diagrams for the 1.7 & 1.6 diesels - they start with the diagram showing the 40A 2nd stage relay in position 5 but the actual circuit shows the 50A 2nd stage relay and it states that it is behind the dash! ( which it is )
Why is that 40A relay marked as being the radiator fan on every diagram? Weird. I would go and trace the 40A relay on mine if I could but my bones won't let me bend or anything at the moment.

Have my dash in bits





Found the Red/White ok. Can anyone confirm where the red/blue is? I’ve found one that is after the relay and disappears towards fan but not one behind the relay plate.
Anyone know what terminal or plug it’s on?

H6?

(From Robseys fab post about CE1 layout)

If you have a CE1 blade-fuse fuse box.
Then the blue / red wire comes from a separate plug.

It will be on the brown H connector.
(Taken from my other thread...)



H BROWN 2 STAGE RELAY FOR RAD FAN

H1 BROWN 2ND STAGE RELAY GROUND - RELAY 5 (J101) PIN 5 (85)

H2 INTERNAL red black - 2 STAGE RELAY (J101) RELAY PIN 2

H3 RED - CONNECTOR T3H / 1 - RAD FAN RELAY PIN 8 (87)

H4 INTERNAL green yellow - 2 STAGE RELAY (J101) RELAY PIN 7

H5 INTERNAL yellow red - 2 STAGE RELAY (J101) RELAY PIN 3

H6 RED / BLUE RADIATOR THERMO SWITCH PIN 1 RELAY PIN 6 (86)


And my chicken switch modification



So for clarification...

The blue / red on a standard loom goes from H6 to the No 1 pin fan thermo switch.

Nice one Robsey!!

I assume you need to use the rear hater switch to activate high speed fan then?
i.e. it will never activate on its own due to temp automatically?

Or... Am I reading it wrong? 

You don't need to use the rear heated window switch, but as my van does not have a heated rear window, it just kept the dash looking tidy.

As such, all you need is...
A 12 volt feed to the switch of your choice.

Then from the switch to connector H6.
It doesn't need to be a heavy wire - it is just to trigger the relay.

If you have a single speed fan, then you can connect the fat red from H3 to the switched side of the fan thermo switch...
(Join with the red/black wire)
Or the live feed side of the blower motor.

If you have a two speed fan motor, then you can connect the fat red on H3 to the motor live feed pin 2.
(As in my diagram).

I hope that makes sense

Robsey wrote: ↑11 Apr 2023, 22:54 You don't need to use the rear heated window switch, but as my van does not have a heated rear window, it just kept the dash looking tidy.

As such, all you need is...
A 12 volt feed to the switch of your choice.

Then from the switch to connector H6.
It doesn't need to be s heavy wire - it is just to trigger the relay.

If you have a single speed fan, then you can connect the fat red from H3 to the switched side of the fan thermo switch...
(Join with the red/black wire)
Or the live feed side of the blower motor.

If you have a two speed fan motor, then you can connect the fat red on H3 to the motor live feed pin 2.
(As in my diagram).

I hope that makes sense

Makes sense, yes!

Top man, Robsey.

Excellent -
Happy to help.

UPDATE: -

As said in an earlier post, I am not sure "how beneficial" this circuit would be, if you have a problem with a faulty thermostat or water-pump, as it is the engine you would need to cool, not the radiator.

Being some 14ft away, this would only help with cooling if you are stuck in traffic, and the engine side of things are okay.

One benefit is it may cool the bulkhead and floor of the cab of the van wiith a constant cooling breeze on the third Wednesday in May when the sun comes out to play.

I am in the unfortunate position someone has drilled four differing holes in the lower face of a mint LLE dash

Going to Switzerland in the summer all being well so that fills one hole

Have brand new water pump radiator stat and hoses to fit beforehand though.

ELVIS wrote: ↑12 Apr 2023, 12:54 I am in the unfortunate position someone has drilled four differing holes in the lower face of a mint LLE dash

Going to Switzerland in the summer all being well so that fills one hole

Have brand new water pump radiator stat and hoses to fit beforehand though.

You could put one of those horns in that plays tunes?

Perhaps one hole for a button that plays an ice cream truck tune, one for the dukes of hazard tune, and one for the A-team? 
That leaves one for the chicken switch! 

( This was a joke BTW )