Propex gas fittings.

[bigbadbob76]

So I've finally got a propex x1 for a decent price.
How do you guys do your gas supply to your propexes?
I'm thinking 1/4" copper to a bulkhead hose tail, then 8mm hose to the regulator on a second 4.5kg bottle in a seperate compartment to the heater,
so if we run out of heating gas we can still cook.
or.......
1/4" copper to a 1/4+8mm+8mm T piece into my existing gas supply and just change the bottle if I run out.
comments welcome
I always turn the gas off at the bottle so don't have any valves in the system.
Am I right in thinking the propex end of the copper pipe needs a compression nut and olive?

Of course I'll get it checked by a corgi before use.

[Ceecee85]

I think Propex say to plumb it in with copper pipe from bottle to heater with a cut off valve in there.
The fitting out of the heater, the brass elbow, goes into the heater with gas ptfe tape on it and the compression joint fixes the copper pipe with an olive.
I plumbed mine in connecting the copper tail to gas pipe- the orange stuff, and connected to a T fitting. Clamped it up with jubilee clips. Left it over night with the gas supply on and then gave it a whiff in the morning. No smell of gas, no leaks. Fitted a CO detector. Right or wrong, it works for me.
Looking for a spare gas bottle now so we won't run out but we've got one of those portable grills to use if we're caught out.

[dave friday]

We got a spare gas cylinder from the rubbish/recycling depo ( with some gas in it!)

[bigbadbob76]

Thanks Ceecee.
I don't think mine has the elbow, will find out when it arrives.
Is the elbow 1/4" bsp female to 1/4" compression?
I'd like to get bits ordered so i can test before fitting.

[CovKid]

I bought a small LPG tank (secondhand - £26) and propex runs off that via copper pipe and a caravan gas tap halfway along. Only one valve needs changing to go from LPG to catering tank. Was fed up paying bottle gas prices. B&Q do he copper pipe by the way. Went from £60 a year in gas (use mine while driving in the Winter) to just £15 a year. The tank also supplies ring burner and a spare connector near sliding door in case I wasnt to cook outside

I just fill up at fortecourts now. Beats driving around picking up over-priced bottles

[bigbadbob76]

Sounds like a good way to go covkid.
Did you put yours under the bench seat?
I'll keep an eye out for an LPG tank.
Unfortunately it's 90 miles to my nearest B&Q so I'll need to order copper pipe and fittings online.
One of the downsides to living here.

[bigbadbob76]

Still trying to get my head round the fitting to the Propex X1.
There's no elbow on the X1 (later Heatsource models have a 1/4 bsp male to 8mm copper elbow)
x1 instructions say it uses a "1/4" gas connection" and that it comes with an olive, so it's a 1/4" compression fitting right?
photo's of other folks installs show a 1/4" bsp to 8mm hose Fulham adapter.

I want to use 8mm copper pipe as that's what my other gas pipe work is, so I need an adapter to suit. simples.
but-
can you just screw a 1/4"bsp female onto a 1/4" compression male????
Or is it really a "1/4" bsp gas connection"?
I'm confused.com.
I've e-mailed propex.

[captain Byrne]

This what you're after? 8mm Compression x 1/4 Inch BSP Female

[bigbadbob76]

I thought that was the right thing Capt'n but now I'm not so sure.
The heater arrived today...
the union on the heater takes a 1/4" copper pipe+olive but not a standard 1/4" compression nut.
Just to add confusion.... a 5/16 compression nut fits the thread but the hole is obviously too big for the 1/4"olive
Is this some wierd special to type propex compression fitting?

standard 1/4" compression fittings are 7/16" diameter, 24 tpi.
standard 5/16" compression fittings are 1/2" diameter, 24 or 19 tpi.
1/4 bsp is 1/2" diameter, 19tpi.
so a 1/4 bsp female would screw onto the heater union but wouldn't seal properly as there's supposed to be an olive in there.

if I can get the proper 1/4" compression fitting i can solder a short length of 1/4" copper into 8mm copper to do the conversion.
aaaggghhhhh.....

[captain Byrne]

a 1/4 bsp female would screw onto the heater union but wouldn't seal properly as there's supposed to be an olive in there.

OK, I know exactly where you're coming from cos I encountered the very same problem. However, as I fitted my propex underneath I had no qualms about wrapping the hell out of it with PTFE & tightening it up. The joint is absolutely fine & I trust it completely - I just don't want to recommend anyone does it with a heater installed inside the van.

[bigbadbob76]

Nice to know I'm not the only one with this problem, thanks Capt'n.
I'll be fitting mine under the bed so want it sealed right, I'm sure yours is but mine might not be. haha.
I'm more familiar with hydraulic fittings than gas fittings but the idea is the same, at least you can see a hydraulic leak.
I've come up with a plan to use a 5/16" compression nut, 8mm olive on 8mm copper and solder in a very short stub of 1/4" copper to fit into the inner part of the heater union.
The 1/4" stub will just centralise and support the 8mm pipe and doesn't effect the sealing, that will be done by the olive.
Will post a pic when I get a data connection for tapatalk.

[bigbadbob76]

[captain Byrne]

I'll be fitting mine under the bed so want it sealed right.

Yep, you don't want that going off in the middle of the night. If I recall I put an olive on mine & ptfe'd it really well. I gave it a good jiggle & tried to pull it off, (no sniggering at that one). All good so far.
I do like you handywork with your workaround - nice one. Just test it with soap bubbles after. No real need for a gas fitter to test it but it's up to you. They'd only go round the joints with bubbles anyway.

[bigbadbob76]

snigger snigger.
Ok, that worked well, I used a new length of 8mm copper, not the scabby bit in the photo.
When I crimped the olive down onto the 8mm pipe with an inch of stainless 1/4" pipe pushed inside, the copper crimped down onto the stainless without needing solder and leaving a short stub sticking out into the heater union. it seals well. I'm a happy camper.
I'll hit it with leak detector spray (bubbles in a can from work) once it's all done.

so... next question...
Propex recommend drilling a 45mm hole for the 38mm exhaust pipe, thet's fine through the steel floor but seems a bit snug through the wood floor.
Propex don't metion clearance from wood.
how big a hole do folks reccomend drilling in the wood?

[Oldiebut goodie]

Use a flanged mount like Eberspächers and Webastos then it is all clear.

Like these that I make for the Webastos.