Club 80-90 Forums

Hi,

Can now get the van to run if I squirt carb cleaner directly into the throttle body....
Otherwise if I start the van its runs 4 seconds and dies...

Is there a signal from ECU to injectors that would shut off after 4 seconds ???

Cheers, Richard

Have you ran a live From the battery directly to the fuel pump and made 100% sure it's running after it fires up ? Try this and see what happens as sounds like a fuel problem ,, can't see the ecu stopping the injectors for any reason , ,, immobaliser stops spark not the injectors firing ,, will try and do a bit more thinking lol

One of my members posted this up as well

Had same issue with my 2.5 NA conversion, try putting a direct live feed to the fuel pump as the factory immobiliser still activates and cuts the power to the pump after a few seconds,
We put a live feed to pump on a switch and was fine after that.

Another thing to check which we had issues with was swapping the pins on the cam and crank sensor at the ecu

Domino wrote:Have you ran a live From the battery directly to the fuel pump and made 100% sure it's running after it fires up ? Try this and see what happens as sounds like a fuel problem ,, can't see the ecu stopping the injectors for any reason , ,, immobaliser stops spark not the injectors firing ,, will try and do a bit more thinking lol

One of my members posted this up as well

Had same issue with my 2.5 NA conversion, try putting a direct live feed to the fuel pump as the factory immobiliser still activates and cuts the power to the pump after a few seconds,
We put a live feed to pump on a switch and was fine after that.

Another thing to check which we had issues with was swapping the pins on the cam and crank sensor at the ecu

Its definitely not the pump as it primes, runs and continues to run after the engine stops for a second or so...will check the ECU pins for the crank and cam tomorrow....

boardmonkey wrote:

Domino wrote:Have you ran a live From the battery directly to the fuel pump and made 100% sure it's running after it fires up ? Try this and see what happens as sounds like a fuel problem ,, can't see the ecu stopping the injectors for any reason , ,, immobaliser stops spark not the injectors firing ,, will try and do a bit more thinking lol

One of my members posted this up as well

Had same issue with my 2.5 NA conversion, try putting a direct live feed to the fuel pump as the factory immobiliser still activates and cuts the power to the pump after a few seconds,
We put a live feed to pump on a switch and was fine after that.

Another thing to check which we had issues with was swapping the pins on the cam and crank sensor at the ecu

Its definitely not the pump as it primes, runs and continues to run after the engine stops for a second or so...will check the ECU pins for the crank and cam tomorrow....

If it runs on carb cleaner then it's defo a fuel problem ,,, nothing I know of stops the injectors firing ,,, cam and crank sensors relate more to timing ,,, the chap the posted that was converting a turbo to NA for rallying so slightly different to your situation and I can't see why yours would need swapping as it all came from the same car

My advice is rig the pump up to a direct live feed like a few people have said as it's worth a try as its only one wire to the pump ,, or if you have a jump starter use that to work the pump ,,, this will rule out the pump as a problem rarther than assuming the ecu is sending the right signals

If you pay my fuel cost in my deisel BMW ill bring the pit crew and drive down to you next week to have a look and see if we can shed any more light on this problem ,,,I'll bring some spares down with me as well so we can swap a few bits around,,,, send me a pm with your number and I'll work out when I can get down to you

Hi,

Fuel pressure...! Eureka.

Clamped the return fuel hose and it runs...moving in the right direction at last !

boardmonkey wrote:Hi,

Fuel pressure...! Eureka.

Clamped the return fuel hose and it runs...moving in the right direction at last !

From my vague memory, I'm sure I saw somewhere that Subaru conversions need a different sized outlet for the tank - I think you need the fuel injection specific tank that have a different diameter outlet?
I don't want to send you on a wild goose chase - this is as much for my own curiosity as it is to help you - but maybe that could be why?

You will know straight away whether that isn't the issue though, so I didn't mind throwing it out there.

Hi Smiffo,

Yes - I heard that as well, and did check around - some are running the standard stock tank with a 2.5 lump...going to replace the injector o rings as they came out when I took the manifold off as the fuel rail was rusty and some of the fuel hose was looking a little perished....I didnt replace the o rings at the time.

The fuel tank itself is 100.00 once I've replaced it and painted it...and it was a right PIG to do...bloody awful job...so will do that as a last resort.
Only other is the FPR and FPDs.....

Cheers, Richard

Smiffo wrote:

boardmonkey wrote:Hi,

Fuel pressure...! Eureka.

Clamped the return fuel hose and it runs...moving in the right direction at last !

From my vague memory, I'm sure I saw somewhere that Subaru conversions need a different sized outlet for the tank - I think you need the fuel injection specific tank that have a different diameter outlet?
I don't want to send you on a wild goose chase - this is as much for my own curiosity as it is to help you - but maybe that could be why?

You will know straight away whether that isn't the issue though, so I didn't mind throwing it out there.

Have ordered the tank, they have a 12MM outlet vs 8MM on the current tank...dreading this job. fingers crossed

boardmonkey wrote:

Smiffo wrote:

boardmonkey wrote:Hi,

Fuel pressure...! Eureka.

Clamped the return fuel hose and it runs...moving in the right direction at last !

From my vague memory, I'm sure I saw somewhere that Subaru conversions need a different sized outlet for the tank - I think you need the fuel injection specific tank that have a different diameter outlet?
I don't want to send you on a wild goose chase - this is as much for my own curiosity as it is to help you - but maybe that could be why?

You will know straight away whether that isn't the issue though, so I didn't mind throwing it out there.

Have ordered the tank, they have a 12MM outlet vs 8MM on the current tank...dreading this job. fingers crossed

Wasn't a very hard job really , took me about two hours to do my tank swap all in but helped to have a extra pair of hand to help it down and back in

Yeah it wasn't that bad to be honest, think I remembered all the issues I had before - so got it done fairly quickly..

Did you resolve the cutting out issue then Board Monkey?
Was it the tank outlet size in the end?

Smiffo wrote:Did you resolve the cutting out issue then Board Monkey?
Was it the tank outlet size in the end?

Not exactly, but its better than before....if I now touch the throttle and increase the revs it runs or if I clamp the return fuel hose, if I do nothing it dies....
I have a replacement FPR to fit later to see if that makes a difference or not...otherwise back to scratching my head...

If the replacement FPR doesn't work I'm driving down to you to have a look as its been bugging me quite a bit now so you must be frustrated as hell over it , not sure if I'll be able to tell you anything but a fresh pair of eyes might help

Domino wrote:If the replacement FPR doesn't work I'm driving down to you to have a look as its been bugging me quite a bit now so you must be frustrated as hell over it , not sure if I'll be able to tell you anything but a fresh pair of eyes might help

I have a 5 year old so patience is key

Yeah - it has pissed me off no end, however its all a learning curve with a new engine especially one with all the engine management...so got to look at it like that.
I don't expect you to mission down here...we are along way from Bristol....will keep you informed. Keep your fingers crossed.

Cheers

I had this problem a while ago. The cheapy fuel pump I bought from GSF just wasn't up to the job (mainly because I dropped it onto the ground before I fitted it). It still made all the right noises and sounded like it was priming etc, but the engine would not fire unless i chucked some petrol directly into the intake (thanks to Nick Tune for that advice ).

I bought a bosch pump and it started up immediately after that. Later, I read that the magnets in the fuel pumps can be easily dislodged if dropped/mishandled and then that's it knackered.

I'm not suggesting this is what's happening here, but if someone can lend you another pump to test, it might shed some light.

Iain