ghost123uk wrote:Ford oil pressure switches were like that [tapered into straight thread] (X-Flow engines etc). You used to just screw them in pretty tight, with a bit of red Hermatite on the thread.
ghost123uk wrote:Ford oil pressure switches were like that [tapered into straight thread] (X-Flow engines etc). You used to just screw them in pretty tight, with a bit of red Hermatite on the thread.
Ignore me then
yeh I heard you John but were they metric taper form?
maybe they were NPT threads which are a taper form, this is about an M10x1 taper form and the tap to match?
1988 DG WBX LPG Tin Top
1989 DJ digijet WBX Holdsworth Villa 3 Pop Top itchylinks
Ah no, I just meant the taper thread into parallel hole principle, not the actual thread / device in question
It just reminded me of ages faffing around on a Ford X-Flow once, when fitting a "T" piece to add a OP gauge. Lots of fun with threads a sealing there was
Just compared with a 1/8 NPT sender/sensor to rule that out and the thread is very similar but pitch slightly different, had to zoom in form a distance to be rid of the parallax.
The following rules must be adhered to when using a combination of G and R-threads: Male G-threads (cylindrical) can only be screwed into female G-threads. Male R-threads (conical) can be screwed into female G or R-threads.
PS
Tapered female threads are a pain in the %$^& to tap
The following rules must be adhered to when using a combination of G and R-threads: Male G-threads (cylindrical) can only be screwed into female G-threads. Male R-threads (conical) can be screwed into female G or R-threads.
PS
Tapered female threads are a pain in the %$^& to tap
thanks
yes I know female tapers are hard to.tap
I ruined a few plates when I was using the 1/8 NPT tap
I discovered you need to go really slow barely a shaving before backing off and going again
lots of cutting paste and regular tap cleaning
1988 DG WBX LPG Tin Top
1989 DJ digijet WBX Holdsworth Villa 3 Pop Top itchylinks
Fitted it tonight and ran it up to fan cutting in and out, there was a bit of a delay from oil temp to gauge rising as before due to thermal lag of the engine case but the reading was far more accurate much quicker.
Within 5 degrees isn't bad and no leaks, a longer test drive would give a better understanding, it maybe that the guge would rise further in time towards real sump oil temperature.
Not sure the M10x1 conical thread would seal as well if you used it again, there was clearly some thread deformation happening as a bit of swarf popped out, maybe I should not have screwed it in so far but I'm not planning to remove it from the plate.