Eberspächer B2l - Trying to get it working again

[irishkeet]

If you're sure that your Glow/Spark plug is working properly then it sounds like a fuel issue. Are you testing this in a bench or is it sitting underneath your van?

There's a test that you can do that will tell you if the fuel pump is delivering the correct amount of fuel to the eber on page 24 of the troubleshooting manual. As the pump is a diaphragm pump there's a chance that it's torn and is no longer delivering fuel properly. This test will give you a good idea of that.

Dave

Hi David

I'm testing it on a box by the side of the van, did a search on B2L pumps and I can't find any for sale (if I need one), also cant undo the pump to check the filter its seized and I don't want to force it too much in case I bugger it

[Oldiebut goodie]

Filters are only £2 ea to replace if you muck it up!

[Oldiebut goodie]

http://sales.butlertechnik.com/eberspac ... 1312000006

[irishkeet]

Filters are only £2 ea to replace if you muck it up!

Thanks OG, I meant Im worried about buggering up the pump trying to get it open, soaked it but it still refuses to open

[Oldiebut goodie]

Long thin 14mm hexagon in a vice, long 17mm spanner on the aluminium nut on the intake end and it will soon come off - a bit of heat from a small blowlamp will help. Use a socket with bar so that you can apply force evenly rather than one sided can help.

[irish.david]

I stand corrected about the diaphragm pump. I assumed that's what it was as they're much simpler and harder to gum up with crud but they're not as precise when it comes to delivering a set amount of fuel. The needle type pump that they're actually using is pretty easy to gum up so it's possible that it's just got some dirt in it.

The best way to test if the pump and filter are working is to do the test described in the troubleshooting manual to check the fuel quantity that the system is using. This will tell you if both the pump and filter are working as they should and it can be done with the pump in place so you don't need to worry about buggering it up.

If the eber is running for 3/4 mins then stopping then it sounds like it is timing out on the temperature switch rather than an undervoltage problem. When you start the eber it'll run for about that time and if it doesn't see the temperature switch on top of the combustion chamber switch in that time then it shuts everything down as it knows there's a problem. I vaguely remember that the green light on the control panel flashes if this happens, but i could be wrong.

If the van is running then the alternator should be raising the voltage enough to stop the eber tripping on undervoltage. If you want to check then get a multimeter and measure the voltage on terminals 3 and 4 of the silver control unit. If it drops under 10v for more than a few secs then the eber should trip on undervoltage. If you try running it without the engine running and it stops in under 3 mins then that is probably an undervoltage issue and could be related to a leisure battery on it's way out, cables getting old, alternator not charging properly or many other things, but we can start worrying about those when you get the eber working

If the eber isn't firing then the problem is either going to be ignition, fuel or air. Sounds like you've got the ignition thing sorted so the next easiest thing to check is fuel and the best way to do that is to make sure the eber is passing through the correct amount of fuel. If you can rule that out then it might be a matter of cracking it open to make sure the combustion air fan is ok.

Dave

[irishkeet]

greetings

Not had a chance to post or had anything new to post as work has been flat out. Sooooo t'ow I will pop down to my neighbour who is a plumber and we will get this pump cracked open, OG thanks for the link my new filter arrived today. On the weekend I plan to Check and/or replace those spades on the electrics board as suggested by OG .
As I'm opening it again I found the correct 100c switch so I figured I may as well replace instead of using a home-made washer.

Then test the pump and other bits as per david's suggestion. I hope I don't need to clean the chamber, this feels like its been a hell of a mission Until then.........

[irishkeet]

Whooo Hooo WE HAVE H-E-A-T

Managed to get the pump open with some heat, cheers OG
Took the filter out, needed some pliers as it was stuck, once out it was great to see there was an issue with it, the hole was nearly closed up

After this we tested the pump which spat a LOT more fuel out, connected the eber with the van running an it fired up first time Ran it for about 20 mins with no problems. It really kicked out quite a bit of heat and is much quieter than the propex I had in my old van

Unfortunately the replacement switch has not arrived so all I can do this weekend is give the casing a coating of Vactan and a respray, I'm still planning to check the spades on the electrics board, when I do the switch. Then I will test again without the van running and run some voltage tests to see where its at. After all that I will be aiming to reinstall it.

I have ordered a rubber mounting holder for the pump and a fuel T-piece. A quick question about installing the t-piece & pump. Between the fuel tank & the fuel pump I have an in-line filter, would I be correct in thinking I should install it after the filter (between filter & pump)?

cheers
irishkeet

[Oldiebut goodie]

The more filtering the better - that filter looks like water damage. Where is the pump drawing the fuel from at present though?

[irishkeet]

The more filtering the better - that filter looks like water damage. Where is the pump drawing the fuel from at present though?

After the filter by the tank it is At the moment just using a jam jar of fuel while testing, when I took the pump off the lines were shot so I'm guessing water could have got through them.

[irishkeet]

OK so eberspacher's pretty much finished . Fleabay seller sent the wrong switch so I didn't crack it open again. The casing has been well treated so it should be well protected from the elements, I even had time for some flames which will make me smile the next time I'm under the van on another job....



I tested it again today under the van before refitting. I'm definitely suffering from under-voltage when connected to the leisure battery, which I know is in good nick. It cut out after a few mins and the voltage was reading 9.something . Connected it to a car battery and it worked fine. Exhaust is all clear and in good order, the thermostat is working correctly, I'm just waiting for the pump holder now and I can connect it to the van's fuel line.

So from reading the threads my options regarding the under-voltage are.....
1 - Run new cable from leisure under the RnR bed - Can anyone tell me what thickness of cable I would need? If I remove the units for a refit I will do this.
2 - Small car battery under the RnR bed using irishdavid's guide
"The easiest thing to do is to add another 12v battery under the bench next to the BBB shelf. This has a number of avantages. You get more capacity in your leisure battery system, the new battery isn’t likely to have too much high current use between it and the original leisure battery so cable losses are minimised and you have a really short run of cable between it and the eber so the eber voltage won’t ever drop under 10.5v even with the glow plug in use.

All you need to do is run an earth strap from the chassis to the negative terminal and connect both the +12v supply from the BBB to the leisure battery and the 12v supply to the eber to the positive terminal and you’re set. I used a 63Amp.hr car battery and built a wooden shelf over it but if you’re concerned about space you could just as well use a small 12v leisure battery from a golf cart or something. It’s just basically be used as a buffer between the leisure battery and the eber. "
irishdavid do you have any pics of your battery install?

cheers
irishkeet

[Oldiebut goodie]

Check for corrosion on any joints - crack open any plugs and shine up the male and female spades. I prefer to cut off old ones and replace as they do seem to be prone to poor contact after 20 - 30 years. Those ones on the internal board - did you replace them? (As these seem to get quite hot and lose their grip). Ensure that you have a good clean earth point if you aren't returning directly to the battery. Your wiring thickness should be sufficient if it is the original size and it will be a connection or two.

[irishkeet]

HI OG

I didn't check the plugs on the board as the fleabay seller sent the wrong switch so I didn't open the casing again. If I was to run fresh cable from the leisure to the heater what thickness would I need? I may just use the car battery under the bed for now, not sure yet. ATB irishkeet

Check for corrosion on any joints - crack open any plugs and shine up the male and female spades. I prefer to cut off old ones and replace as they do seem to be prone to poor contact after 20 - 30 years. Those ones on the internal board - did you replace them? (As these seem to get quite hot and lose their grip). Ensure that you have a good clean earth point if you aren't returning directly to the battery. Your wiring thickness should be sufficient if it is the original size and it will be a connection or two.

[Oldiebut goodie]

4 mm² for up to 3m, 6mm² for 3-6m.

[irishkeet]

4 mm² for up to 3m, 6mm² for 3-6m.

Many Thanks