Eberspächer B2l - Trying to get it working again

[irishkeet]

Hi OG

I thought the B2L was petrol and the D2L was diesel, my glow plug is a B2L plug. I've not removed anything but the blue ignition generator is there, you can just see it in this piccy


So Im still wondering why the switch (or any sign of it) is not there

Keith
I can't see a spark generator on yours - have you removed it? If not yours is most probably a D2L and not a B2L!
Also explains why you can't find the switch as it is B2L specific.
Unless they did away with the spark ignition at some point - but I have never seen any mention of that.

[Oldiebut goodie]

Missed it! Not so good with only one eye working properly.
Presumably all it would mean is that the glow operation of the plug isn't cut out when the heat exchanger is already warm. Only drawback being the use of more battery power on startup without it.

[Oldiebut goodie]

Ey up! buried in circuits is this which explains it:

[irishkeet]

Ahhh thanks OG, I started to look at the wiring pages but ran out of time (and they give me a headache)

Ey up! buried in circuits is this which explains it:

[irishkeet]

OK so today the switches arrived and with a few headaches I got stuff done....

First switch was the Safety Thermal Cut-out. I would advise changing the screws as one of mine snapped when I was screwing it back in I couldn't get it out so I just drilled in a bit an used a small self tapper, not ideal but what can ya do. I also made some new paper gaskets as the others just fell apart.



Next was the temp switch: The one that arrived is not as deep as the original so I made up a bit of plastic to increase the gap, also used some thermal compound as recommended by Martin (California Dreamin)



Third was the non-existent Heating Coil Switch which now it transpires some B2ls dont have

Glowplug tested and glowing, just need to test the spark as per irishdavid's instructions.


With the few problems I ran out of day and we have friends staying the weekend so who knows when I will get to put it all back together and test.

I do have a question, once I know it works I want to paint the casing, do I need heat resistant paint?

cheers for all the help & advice so far - much appreciated

[Oldiebut goodie]

Paint - I have resprayed Webasto cases with standard rattle cans without noticing any ill effects but they have the heat concentrated at the open end whereas these have a much longer heating chamber. I would say that it would be OK though as modern spray paints are quite heat resistant and the casing should not be getting that hot due to the constant airflow. Older Webastos of the same era do not get so hot that you cannot keep your hand on the case and modern ones are heat resistant plastic.

[irishkeet]

Thanks again OG, I hope I get to the painting it stage

Paint - I have resprayed Webasto cases with standard rattle cans without noticing any ill effects but they have the heat concentrated at the open end whereas these have a much longer heating chamber. I would say that it would be OK though as modern spray paints are quite heat resistant and the casing should not be getting that hot due to the constant airflow. Older Webastos of the same era do not get so hot that you cannot keep your hand on the case and modern ones are heat resistant plastic.

[California Dreamin]

Hiya mate....just a couple of observations.....you were right to bend those terminals flat on the 250C switch as they would have been resting, thus shorting, on the case, however, the top terminal still looks a little close to the inner cast casing and its difficult to see but how close the spade connectors are to the switch retaining ring...all I am saying is make sure there is clearance and those terminals don't touch. I used fibre washers on mine, just remember whatever you used needs to be able to withstand some pretty high temperatures....and that leads on to the second point...if you have to pack the 100C switch, I wouldn't advise plastic unless its a particular type.

Have you checked the combustion chamber for carbon build up? I think this was one of the factors that was causing my none start....although you need to be very careful not to damage the cage/gauze.

Martin

[irishkeet]

OK I had a few hours yesterday to play, still not running as yet!
I took Martins advice and moved the switch, also remembered I have a load of fibre washer for motherboards so I swapped the home-brew paper ones. Made a new spacer from part of my soldering mat as I figure it will stand up to the high temps.

I didn't check the combustion chamber for carbon build up, Martin can you run me through this? Did it involve taking the blower & motor off etc, do you have pics from when you did it?

I followed irishdavid's advice on testing the glowplug, at first no spark but when I re-gapped it I got a good spark.

So I ran it a few times, fuel in a jam jar connected to pump which seemed to spit fuel OK. I'm not convinced that when its connected it to the eber it delivering fuel as I took the short fuel line from the pump to the eber off and no fuel was spitting. I tried a shorter fuel line with no joy but looking at this video I should be able to use a long line when testing!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vi-tWNaAPL8
On a plus note the eber ran for about 3/4mins before stopping which is the longest yet, I had the van running so I know I have enough juice in the battery. Also I could feel that the cables to the glowplug were warm so I know the GP was doing its job.

[irish.david]

If you're sure that your Glow/Spark plug is working properly then it sounds like a fuel issue. Are you testing this in a bench or is it sitting underneath your van?

There's a test that you can do that will tell you if the fuel pump is delivering the correct amount of fuel to the eber on page 24 of the troubleshooting manual. As the pump is a diaphragm pump there's a chance that it's torn and is no longer delivering fuel properly. This test will give you a good idea of that.

Dave

[Oldiebut goodie]

Not a diaphragm pump!



Namely

A metering pump, especially for feeding fuel to a vehicle heater, comprising a delivery plunger (50), which can be moved to and fro for delivering liquid medium, a guide sleeve (42), which partially accommodates the delivery plunger (50) and guides same for the reciprocating movement, wherein the guide sleeve (42) with an inner surface (46) thereof defines a pump ejection chamber (48) and it defines with an outer surface (60) thereof a channel arrangement (74) leading to the pump ejection chamber (48), wherein the guide sleeve (42) is carried in a carrier element (24) and is in contact with the carrier element (24) by its outer surface (60) essentially over the entire circumference in a first length area (58) and is located with its outer surface at a spaced location from the carrier element (24) in a second length area (64), wherein the channel arrangement (74) is provided between the carrier element (24) and the guide sleeve (42) in its second length area (64), is characterized in that in its second length area (64), the guide sleeve (42) has at least one support area (78, 80, 82, 84), with which it is supported in relation to the carrier element (24).

[Oldiebut goodie]

Did you prime the fuel line first?

[irishkeet]

Did you prime the fuel line first?

I sucked fuel down the hose?

[Oldiebut goodie]

Check and/or replace those spades on the electrics board - they carry a lot of current and heat up leading to softening of the copper which leads to intermittent contact. At least crush them a little with pliers to ensure good contact.
Check the voltage at the heater as you start it up you may be suffering undervoltage.

[irishkeet]

cheers OG will do, there shouldn't be an undervoltage issue as I had the van running when testing to just be sure
hopefully get a bit if time before the weekend

Check and/or replace those spades on the electrics board - they carry a lot of current and heat up leading to softening of the copper which leads to intermittent contact. At least crush them a little with pliers to ensure good contact.
Check the voltage at the heater as you start it up you may be suffering undervoltage.