waxoyl the inside of roof and sides or summer heat will melt

[xpress]

hi. Should I go crazy with the clear waxoyl and do all the sides bottom and top inside of roof and sides before i put all the camping interior back in or will summer heat cause it to run and syink the van out and cause a health hazard? or should I just do the bottoms of the doors. the bottoms of the inside arches etc?

a friend of mine did an mg with linseed oil on the inside.

[harris121163]

Hi I give my van a waxoil every two years I would concentrate on the wheel arches and the chassis which are all exposed to the elements. The only place I would clear waxoil would be the inside of the door panels. If you do the inner roof it will give of fumes every time the sun heats it up and softens the wax and the roof never rusts hope this helps.

[HarryMann]

... the folded reveals along the sides of the roof holding the head lining I have seen rust badly on a Doka kept near the sea, although that is another matter. Holed the roof, maybe condensation running down?

[faggie]

i did mine years ago i waxoyled absolutely everywhere at first it did smell for a couple of months then the smell dissapeared even in sunlight i dont get any smell anymore and thankfully its still rust free

[xpress]

thanks faggie. I am thinking of using linseed oil.

[billy739]

personally I would not use waxoyl

I have found it dries and cracks giving a not too good seal.

try and get a good 1/4 inch at the bottom of the doors/ rear quarters ect

[xpress]

billy, a 1/4 inch? please can you explain? a quarter inch brush?

[billy739]

thickness of wax


don't just put a thin layer

also if you can try and warm the panels slightly with a hot air gun or similar. not too much tho ..
this will allow the wax to creep into the joins of the panels , not just hit the cold panel and harden.

you can get different grades of wax , some is designed to 'creep' others just a s a layerd protection

I have stripped quite a few vans , and vw seemed to favour the 'caravlle ' and similar ,models when it comes to wax!

in the lower panel just above the rear jacking point ( top of sill) its quite regular to get 2-3 inches of water collected , hence why the rust out here easily .( better waxed vans just have a puddle , cheaper spec rust out!)

I drill a small hole on my vans for the water to drain , along with a very good thick wax layer

[AdrianC]

personally I would not use waxoyl

There's certainly far better products out there.

I got a stack of Dinitrol from http://www.rust.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; a few years ago. Really must get around to using it... <whistles innocently>

[HarryMann]

in the lower panel just above the rear jacking point ( top of sill) its quite regular to get 2-3 inches of water collected , hence why the rust out here easily .( better waxed vans just have a puddle , cheaper spec rust out!)

I drill a small hole on my vans for the water to drain , along with a very good thick wax layer

Good tip Billy

Thats a bad area .. rebuilt a few. Drain holes way to go in quite a few areas.

Also fencing wire of different gauges, when dry period, rattle out through holes all dust, silt, detritus.. BEFORE any Waxoyling Dinitroling or ???ing.
Rattle out from any and every access hole.. vacuum out (attach heater hose to crevice tool with gaffer tape).. then treatment can get to the surface easier though Dinitrol claim it penetrates loose debris and 'finds' the metal