I am doing mine at present but it is a long job as can only work at it for a short time sporadically due to the arferitis.
An engine hoist and engine stand are a godsend. Beats having to manhandle an engine on the deck. (As your body gets older anything to save on bending is a lifesaver)
What I have purchased so far ex Brickwerks:
1 Flywheel bolt set - inline 4cyl ..................................01197 [x6].......£10.26
1 Guide Sleeve for release bearing - T3 all .....................8130300100.......£3.74
1 Cam/Crank/I shaft oil seal .....................................325.155...........£3.24
1 Crank oil seal - VW Diesel [Flywheel end] .....................342.093...........£7.87 Finally got to mine - it's a 'one piece' -£40ish!!!! ......Hopefully I can use the housing off the old engine.
1 Coolant flange - T3 D/TD Large - ALLOY T3D................121 133 E.........£5.36
1 Full Clutch - T3 Diesel [all] .....................................3000 162 001....£92.63
1 Oil Cooler Sealing ring ...........................................18776..............£2.31
1 T3 Diesel [ALL] Oil Dipstick Funnel .............................036 115 636......£1.37
1 Crank pulley bolt - most 4 cyl Diesels...........................09590..............£2.14
+
Spigot bearing
Oil + filter
Anti-freeze
Intending to keep normal belt setup so new v-belt.Even though my engine is from a 1998 Caddy I am playing safe with the crankshaft nose and keeping to a v-belt as I don't have a clutched alternator. Bolt must be replaced if removed.
new cambelt+tensioner...........................................................................£31
Gallon of farmyard degreaser!
Couple of boxes of latex gloves (swarfega if you are macho!).
Check engine and gearbox mounts whilst engine out. (I've already done mine so price unknown)
Inlet and exhaust not decided yet, possibly cobble together a stainless exhaust system, inlet - thinking about, have some thoughts but will need to play.
Cold start, creating and testing a timed solenoid as people have experienced difficult starting when warm. (my pump has one of those weird actuators that doesn't appear to work and the travel is only 5mm away from the cab so normal cable is back to front).
Intending to use the 1Y windage tray with the elongated holes plated over to try to prevent surging of oil up into bores on hard braking. (Peteabbott experienced something that may have been this). Bell housing will need sump bolt holes elongating by 2 or 3mm.
Colinthefox also:
colinthefox wrote:
It's quite important to get the correct oil level to avoid oil surge if too low, and frothing if too high. I had some difficulty with the oil frothing after a motorway run, resulting in the Buzzer of Doom on the slip roads under heavy braking. I've now changed from an ordinary sump gasket to the baffle plate type, and so far it seems to have cured the problem. I had to extend the two gearbox holes where the sump bolts on by a couple of mm due to the thicker gasket, but easy enough, and I think it's an improvement.
Fabricated metal oil breather flange due to original plastic disintegrating - won't have to worry about that happening again.
Silver soldered piece of copper tube into 1Y dipstick tube - stainless steel strips from wiper blades as temporary/permanent? dipstick.
Am just playing with the 1Y inlet manifold, taking 5/6mm off the upper edge and grinding/filing back to the lower edge gives 1/2 an inch extra clearance between the bodywork in the engine bay and the manifold. The bolt holes wil need to be reamered at an angle and the washer seat slightly dressed to keep the bolt head square. It brings the exhaust recirculating flange on the manifold fairly close to the cam cover but should be OK. (Fingers crossed) Would have had it milled but my local guy has retired.
The first cut is the deepest.... nothing to lose!
Just about there:
Clearance between manifold and breather hat.
The gain in clearance appears to be closer to 1 inch rather than the 1/2 inch that I envisaged! It lifts the manifold up and away from where it would foul the bodywork/chassis member. I hope that I have got it right for the swap over.
Don't forget to check that the manifold bolts don't bottom out as you have decreased the thickness of the manifold. I have taken a couple of mm off mine to leave sufficient clearance at the bottom of the hole.
Update on this - haven't gained as much clearance as I had hoped for - I have had to 'adjust' the bodywork also to allow sufficient clearance!
Not too happy with using the original steel gasket - so made a new one courtesy of the pound shop gasket material - silicone baking sheet, quick and easy to cut out unlike normal gasket material.
Now, whether or not to keep the exhaust gas recirculation system?
Will add bits as and when I think of/do/buy/make stuff.