Club 80-90 Forums

It has helped me to plan electrical upgrades on my van too.
Although unlike yourself, my plan is to fit a GM / Saab electro-mechanical cruise control.
Not subject to vacuum leaks like VW systems could be.

I retro fitted the same system to my 1994 Cavalier back in 2018.
It is a bit voodoo how it works... but it does.

Will be interesting reading if you care to share on here.
I was advised by another forum member to use G2 or G5.
After reading you excellent wiring article l may well have accidentally stuck the power wire for my CC connection on vacant G1?There's a black wire already on G2 (CC?). So needs investigating.
Thanks again

One other thing.
If using G2 or G5 for cruise control power, are you saying this terminal is already covered by a 10amp fuse and simply needs uprading to 15amp?
Ive used a separate inline 15amp fuse with this new power source to CC loom under steering column.
Regards
Stuart

Yep - Connection to G2 or G5 is fused by fuse 18.
Change fuse from 10 amp to 15 amp.

See here.

Thanks for the reassurance

Okay -

G1 - Options are.
(X / relief relay controlled circuits)
Blower motor - connected internally to blower motor fan positive (30).
Other options - Electric Mirrors or Windows.

------------------------‐-------------------------

G2 - Cruise control

G5 - (black wire) Brake Fluid warning (reservoir cap switch) and Hand Brake warning light.
Heated Seats.

Connections to G2 and G5 are interchangable, but keep a record of all the changes you make.
Otherwise you will get confused later down the line.

Does anyone know the correct terminal type and have any suggestions for removal tools? The cheap ones based on insulated tubular terminals don't seem to work.

With Brickwerks supplying TE parts I'm wondering if they're Mate N Lok but unsure which series.

I have used the tubular release tools that you describe.
The terminals have three tangs that all need deflecting by the tool.

They are a bugger to get out, but they do come out when you get the knack.
Just insert the tool fully, ensuring that the terminal is fully in it's recepticle.

Then I use a rotary motion to deflect each tang in a circular motion, and then pull out the terminal.

Yes they look like Mate N Lok terminals.
1.6mm and 3.5mm.
Although probably more like 1/16" and 1/8"

Just stumbled across this thread, good work!
Just a quick note to say hopefully we'll have a full compliment of all the CE1 connectors soon.
I've started adding some of the stuff to the webshop already but more to come in the next month or so.
Also now stocking these which have been unobtainable for a long while.
https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/electr ... connector/
Also managed to find the now obsolete relay and fuse holders to clip on to CE1, all aftermarket granted but decent quality and better than nothing!

Stesaw wrote: ↑29 Aug 2022, 16:36 Yeah thats right. Still trying to source the H connector for the ce fusebox

https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/electr ... n-rad-fan/

Just about done with listing the connectors for CE1.
All linked from the fuse box on the shop.
https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/fuse-b ... fuses-ce1/
Unaware of anyone else in the UK bothering to stock these.
Sorry for the add but some of these are hard to find and thought they would be useful to some one.
We also stock the clip on relay holders, fuses and all the relays and control units for it too.

Relay socket, useful for adding headlamp relays etc.
https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/relay- ... 1-clip-on/

Clip on fuse holder.
https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/fuse-h ... ternative/

Relays.
https://brickwerks.co.uk/?s=relay+-+&po ... gwt_wcas=1
 

Good stuff as always Simon and great prices as always

G for ground?

The G on this thread is not for ground. Please read the thread.