Club 80-90 Forums

RJES also makes or sells a vss for those with a Subaru install- I have one on ours. It's also a 3 wire sensor from memory, fits on the back of the Speedo in the same way. Straight fit, might be an easier source for someone else looking for one? You'd have to check with him about signal type etc. All of his stuff is excellent

You have the cruise control ecu in the right area.. There should be a seam just infront where the bracket mounts to the mounting plate

Im sure i sent the dimensions of the plate to you but its not really important unless your going foir full factory look. Think i have a spare pump but they are same as p38 range rovers and easy to get on ebay.. My pump holds my jx throttle ok. Might be worth double checking for leaks...

Cheers for that, Rascal. The same position indeed. Yet with RHD, the main loom going to steering area makes for little room inside there (and yes you did post bracket dimensions, with thanks).

Plus the CC loom is LHD so lve got to fold it down to fit in an already crowded place. Begore you say it. NO way lm cutting a genuine loom!

Ive got a spare vacuum bulb from a Jag or or P38. Will try replacing it. My fears it is the pump though. Just not gutsy enough.

Removing the throttle bar l can test vacuum and it holds perfectly at full compression.
With bar added to throttle, bulb starts to compress but cannot pull throttle open from idle; engine not running.

Might be different when driving as the throttle is in a better arc to get a pull from the bulb.

Will test again later today.

Regards
Stuart

Hi I make cruise control arm, and you can use it with original parts.
My email pawel.salbut@gmail.com.
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Good news! The vacuum pump and bulb work's perfectly. It was me wrongly testing.

To correctly test pump and bulb; constant 12 volts on the power wire. Hold and pump wires to negative. This pulls the throttle arm with ease. At desired point remove pump wire, leaving hold attached to negative. Works a treat.

Furthermore, l blanked off the vacuum pipe at the brake pedal and all working as it showed.

On to more electrics in drivers' area tomorrow.

tublasek wrote: ↑02 Sep 2022, 08:45 Hi I make cruise control arm, and you can use it with original parts.
My email pawel.salbut@gmail.com.
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Hi Pawel, and welcome to the forum...

Ive temporarily cobbled together the wiring until some proper VW three pin connectors come in from Bricky.
Pump temp wiring...plus a few others for now.



Other wiring to consider is the connection to brake light switches on the master cylinder. A single red/black wire in cruise control loom (lm guessing) splices into the red/black wire going to brake master cylinder.

This is an additional safety feature l presume? So would like to use it as lm not connecting a preventer to the autobox (unless some kind bod shows me how) as lm using a manual version of the CC loom.
Yet the cylinder has two switches. Both with red/black wires.

Does it matter which l choose?



Regards
Stuart

Okay - I have both manual and auto schematics in front of me.

Looking at the red/black on cruise module pin 3.

Manual says -red/black for all links...
To brake vacuum vent valve, then to clutch vent valve, then to brake light switch.

Auto says -
Red / black goes to auto trans relay pin 2 (30 contact)
Red/blue goes from relay pin 5 (87 contact)
To the brake vacuum vent valve,
Wire colour reverts to red/black and goes to brake light switch.

The other two auto trans relay pins are...
Relay pin 4 (86 contact) = black/ yellow to fusebox pin G3 (x relief relay output - fused)
Relay pin 6 (85 contact) = black/ red to fusebox pin C18.

All other cruise module pins look like the same colours and functions between manual and auto.

Robsey wrote: ↑08 Sep 2022, 19:27 Okay - I have both manual and auto schematics in front of me.

Looking at the red/black on cruise module pin 3.

Manual says -red/black for all links...
To brake vacuum vent valve, then to clutch vent valve, then to brake light switch.

Auto says -
Red / black goes to auto trans relay pin 2 (30 contact)
Red/blue goes from relay pin 5 (87 contact)
To the brake vacuum vent valve,
Wire colour reverts to red/black and goes to brake light switch.

The other two auto trans relay pins are...
Relay pin 4 (86 contact) = black/ yellow to fusebox pin G3 (x relief relay output - fused)
Relay pin 6 (85 contact) = black/ red to fusebox pin C18.

Hi Robsey, and thanks for the information.

With the above in mind, will re-read my wiring diagram and try to put it into simpleton terms.
Then consider whether a connection to auto relay is truly necessary. I cant see how it is really needed? Yet it would be prudent to set it all up as the factory intended.

Also lm trying to get my head round why additional wiring goes to brake switch. Once you press brake pedal then vacuum releases the cruise control anyhow. Perhaps a US belts and braces set up.

Regards
Stuart

I think you would be fine without it.

I presume it is to prevent cruise engaging when in neutral.

Same as the park / neutral switch prevents the van from starting.

In simple terms -

Manual version..
The brake light signal travels as follows:-

Brake switch -> clutch vent valve -> brake vent valve - cruise module pin 3

Auto version -
Brake Switch -> brake vent valve -> auto trans relay -> cruise module pin 3.

So the relay simply acts in place of the clutch vent valve.
It is odd that it's place in the daisy-chain is swapped with the brake vent valve.

Meanwhile, and between horrendous downpours of rain and decorating a bedroom, l fitted the vacuum switch, the holding plate and connected the plug and hose.

Later l fabricated a part to sit on top of the brake lever resting against the rubber foot of the vacuum switch. Not sure why VW didnt make the brake and clutch levers with cruise control plates as standard?

Dusted off my cheap welder, lve not used used in a few years, and put some crappy welds on bent metal cut from a garden gate hinge.



I will cut down the bolt. Then use it as a pinch bolt to hold bracket in place.


Must tidy up this lot!

Robsey wrote: ↑08 Sep 2022, 19:59 I think you would be fine without it.

I presume it is to prevent cruise engaging when in neutral.

Same as the park / neutral switch prevents the van from starting.

In simple terms -

Manual version..
The brake light signal travels as follows:-

Brake switch -> clutch vent valve -> brake vent valve - cruise module pin 3

Auto version -
Brake Switch -> brake vent valve -> auto trans relay -> cruise module pin 3.

So the relay simply acts in place of the clutch vent valve.
It is odd that it's place in the daisy-chain is swapped with the brake vent valve.

Okay and thanks very much for your help.

Robsey,

Referring back to your excellent map of G pins, and thinking about a Saab l owned in the 90's with CC, one of it's many safety features included pulling on handbrake to cancel cruise, too.

If l were to use the auto relay wire and instead splice it into wire G5 (handbrake and fluid warning light) l could pull the handbrake to release CC by sending a signal to cruise module pin 3. BUT would it reinstate once l release lever? I think not. It's surely the same effect as momentarily braking?

Your views please?
Regards
Stuart