All sorts of strangeness going on after dropped live wire to stereo

[joker83]

I was trying to replace the stereo on my T25 1983 Club Joker and dropped the live wire which shorted something.

Now when I have the ignition and headlights on, the dash lights turn off, the clock stops and the temperature needle shoots up to maximum.

With the ignition off and the headlights on the dash lights, clock and temperature needle work as expected.

I've test all the fuses in the fuses box and the two behind the drivers seat and they are good.

I've chased the live wire that was powering the stereo and it is taken from a live in the dashboard

Any ideas what I've done?

 

[Mocki]

Killed the voltage regulator in the dash pod , or melted, or pulled a earth connection off

[mioba]

Have you an inline fuse to the radio. Mine is wired separately from the fuse box.
As your live comes from the dash, you have killed something there as mentioned.
I can imagine you kicking yourself.

[joker83]

I can imagine you kicking yourself.

Kicking myself? Yes!! Especially after I spent time checking the polarity was correct on each speaker using a battery which is a really satisfying job.

There isn't an inline fuse. The stereo flashes on and off when I hook it up to the live. Any ideas why?

Killed the voltage regulator in the dash pod , or melted, or pulled a earth connection off

I'm going to check the voltage regulator and earths. Thanks Mocki
 

[davidoft1]

Do you still have the issue without the stereo connected?

[joker83]

I do have the issue without the stereo connected

[mioba]

Oh I remember the battery test on my stereo years ago to determine the polarity and a good feeling you have when the wires are the right way on the stereo-speakers

I do always disconnect my battery mind when working on any electrical items. Its a bit of a golden rule not only for your safety but that of electrics.

"kicks himself again".....

Chin up it can all be fixed.

[mioba]

Stereo should be on it own circuit with a fuse at the fuse box/inline and a fuse on the back of the stereo usually.

Get a piggy back fuse holder, they are great and let you add a new circuit.

All that load on the dash (they are only small copper prints) is not good.

"kicks himself again".....

[Robsey]

From what I can see, the radio battery live (red wire) is connected to the van at the hazard light switch.

The switch and radio are fed from fuse 9 (16 amps.)
Fuse 9 =
(some vans use fuse 8 as fuses 8 and 9 are linked).
Red / White to Hazard Switch pin 30
Red to clock.

Hazard Switch pin 30=
Red / White to fuse 9
Red to Radio.

The clock also takes it's power from fuse 9 but away from the hazard switch.

I suspect a ground issue due to voltage tracking away from other devices... clock, interior lights etc.

The brown ground wire for the radio does not link to anything else. Just straight to ground.

The only other connection is the illumination.
Fed from Fuse 13. (8 amps) - separate fuse on the top or side of the main fuse panel.
This is linked to the cig lighter illumination wire.

Fuse 13 is fed from the illumination rheostat on the light switch.

I hope that helps.

Torpedo Style Fuse Box Pin-Out thread here...

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