WBXmayo
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- T25Convert
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- Posts: 402
- Joined: 20 Jun 2009, 09:27
- 80-90 Mem No: 7819
- Location: Chester
Re: WBXmayo
Not seen a speedi-sleeve before - I like it a lot.
I'm looking forward to the start-up, can't be that far away now!
I'm looking forward to the start-up, can't be that far away now!
RIP - George - 1.9DG '85 AutoSleeper Trident - rusted away
George Second - 1.9DG '89 Caravelle
George Second - 1.9DG '89 Caravelle
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
- Posts: 12427
- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: WBXmayo
T25Convert wrote:Not seen a speedi-sleeve before - I like it a lot.
I'm looking forward to the start-up, can't be that far away now!
It will be finished soon but may not be put in the van for a little while, van has a running DG so no great rush, I will do it when its warmer and my shoulder injury is better.
- T25Convert
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- 80-90 Mem No: 7819
- Location: Chester
Re: WBXmayo
itchyfeet wrote:It will be finished soon but may not be put in the van for a little while, van has a running DG so no great rush.
Not fancy a bench run first just for fun?!
RIP - George - 1.9DG '85 AutoSleeper Trident - rusted away
George Second - 1.9DG '89 Caravelle
George Second - 1.9DG '89 Caravelle
- itchyfeet
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- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: WBXmayo
T25Convert wrote:itchyfeet wrote:It will be finished soon but may not be put in the van for a little while, van has a running DG so no great rush.
Not fancy a bench run first just for fun?!
nah, too much effort. cam break in is 20 mins so you need a cooling system that can handle that.
- itchyfeet
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- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: WBXmayo
Time to break open the gasket set, using VR this time always used Elring until now.
P1090455 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Pop in the shim retainer / oil thrower
P1090456 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
crank o ring and felt ring in
P1090457 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
grease the main crank oil seal and hammer it in
P1090458 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
using the old seal I tap it gently under flush, If you don't it can rub on the flywheel
P1090460 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1090461 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
flywheel on, I treated it to new bolts because I don't know the history of the old bolts, there is a stretch setting some people do.
Double check end float.
P1090462 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
110Nm
P1090463 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4723/25172928887_95cf95b5a0_b.jpg)
Pop in the shim retainer / oil thrower
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4750/39334290214_0c1333c769_b.jpg)
crank o ring and felt ring in
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4708/25172928237_f6b33efb88_b.jpg)
grease the main crank oil seal and hammer it in
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4661/40012221312_a2ea3f6b49_b.jpg)
using the old seal I tap it gently under flush, If you don't it can rub on the flywheel
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4654/40012220802_643213b6e2_b.jpg)
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4627/39334289554_cc6a30b9b9_b.jpg)
flywheel on, I treated it to new bolts because I don't know the history of the old bolts, there is a stretch setting some people do.
Double check end float.
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4602/39334289354_c1e6d664a7_b.jpg)
110Nm
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4620/39334289064_57a422f0e3_b.jpg)
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
- Posts: 12427
- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: WBXmayo
Barrels and pistons fitted
P1090466 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
quick check of the groove for any dirt, new o ring and piston out just far enough for the pin to go in but not showing rings.
P1090468 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
engine on side makes it possible, very hard in normal orientation because con rods fall
P1090470 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
always rags to stop a lost clip going inside, never lost one yet but the day I stop the rags is the day I will
P1090472 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
make sure it turns, if it does not turn it's not seated, push just one hole towards the other.
P1090474 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
No 2 is a bit more fiddly
P1090477 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
strap to stop barrels moving when you do the other side
P1090483 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
No 3 is Ok but No 4 is the hardest becuse the hole is closer to crank and the conrod can't be at top of stroke, a rag holds it in the right place, pull rag out after.
P1090487 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1090489 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1090490 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
strap on other barrels and then it can be turned over, need to make some better straps.
P1090492 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4702/39335536454_91aba1021d_b.jpg)
quick check of the groove for any dirt, new o ring and piston out just far enough for the pin to go in but not showing rings.
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4704/28266977229_af59ce52f8_b.jpg)
engine on side makes it possible, very hard in normal orientation because con rods fall
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4716/39335536024_a9f6ff5350_b.jpg)
always rags to stop a lost clip going inside, never lost one yet but the day I stop the rags is the day I will
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/40013606852_1df07a8eda_b.jpg)
make sure it turns, if it does not turn it's not seated, push just one hole towards the other.
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4717/39335535594_dd05401bc2_b.jpg)
No 2 is a bit more fiddly
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4623/40013606432_b3439aa4b3_b.jpg)
strap to stop barrels moving when you do the other side
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4741/40013606212_a0b54313d8_b.jpg)
No 3 is Ok but No 4 is the hardest becuse the hole is closer to crank and the conrod can't be at top of stroke, a rag holds it in the right place, pull rag out after.
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4720/40013606032_1c7022bd0f_b.jpg)
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4677/39335534764_b32b4d636e_b.jpg)
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4648/39335534534_361106c763_b.jpg)
strap on other barrels and then it can be turned over, need to make some better straps.
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4613/40013605222_3a676c9cc6_b.jpg)
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
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- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: WBXmayo
Not much done today, I was doing a little work on the tin top.
Had a look at the oil pump
JP plate looks good quality, dare I say better than the VW ones which were painted and had a sticker on the business side.
P1090493 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
no end float on the gears, actually the gears are very slightly proud meaning it won't turn when you hold the the plate to it with no gasket.
I was planning to leave the gasket out again and use Curil T as I did on the pop top, (I thought it leaked but I was wrong it was the dizzy seal)
No gasket means I need to tickle the gears so they spin without problems, I will do that on the surface plate tomorrow.
P1090494 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
I checked fit with a mounting and it hits as I expected so some grinding of the plate rim needed also.
P1090495 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1090497 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Had a look at the oil pump
JP plate looks good quality, dare I say better than the VW ones which were painted and had a sticker on the business side.
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4674/25209827017_0dafa510e7_b.jpg)
no end float on the gears, actually the gears are very slightly proud meaning it won't turn when you hold the the plate to it with no gasket.
I was planning to leave the gasket out again and use Curil T as I did on the pop top, (I thought it leaked but I was wrong it was the dizzy seal)
No gasket means I need to tickle the gears so they spin without problems, I will do that on the surface plate tomorrow.
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4606/28301610029_8540e9f713_b.jpg)
I checked fit with a mounting and it hits as I expected so some grinding of the plate rim needed also.
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4605/25209826707_bacb7c9a92_b.jpg)
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4669/28301609129_f3c6867d7a_b.jpg)
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
- Posts: 12427
- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: WBXmayo
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
- Posts: 12427
- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: WBXmayo
The driven gear is fine and spins with cover on it's just the undriven gear that's a bit too long, 600 grit on both sides soon has it spinning freely.
20180205_094957 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
cover plate bolted on tight and it's spinning nicely with very little if not zero end float
20180205_095459 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4768/28316193479_e1a324b082_b.jpg)
cover plate bolted on tight and it's spinning nicely with very little if not zero end float
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4766/25225198537_2a52a7b454_b.jpg)
- itchyfeet
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- Location: South Hampshire
Re: WBXmayo
progress slowed by a radiator that I have been putting off fitting for 2 years, it's in now and the downstairs toilet is now usable.
studs for pump too short for the Aircooled pump, they are long enough at 40mm to just wind out a bit but I changed them for grubs that I can hold when I tighten them
P1090508 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1090510 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
studs for pump too short for the Aircooled pump, they are long enough at 40mm to just wind out a bit but I changed them for grubs that I can hold when I tighten them
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4613/28357499459_01c12e3737_b.jpg)
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4654/39426294734_8248217c2f_b.jpg)
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
- Posts: 12427
- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: WBXmayo
Pump in tonight
Curil T on, drew around a gasket on the cover to know where to stop but I'm not fitting a gasket to the pump/cover interface, I did fit one to the pump/engine case interface
P1090511 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
As I can't see a way to O ring I thought I'd try a smear of sealant again, I have tried the yellow head stud stuff before, it's non setting so no worries about it getting where it shuoldn't but probably not going to last so I tried a smear of Dirko HT this time,it is high temp and oil resistant, placed it in a crescent so it does not get pushed into the aperture but away from it. Anything that did break off into the oil supply is before the oil filter so I'm not worried.
P1090512 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1090514 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Heads next
Curil T on, drew around a gasket on the cover to know where to stop but I'm not fitting a gasket to the pump/cover interface, I did fit one to the pump/engine case interface
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4656/40122510732_d7d2964a07_b.jpg)
As I can't see a way to O ring I thought I'd try a smear of sealant again, I have tried the yellow head stud stuff before, it's non setting so no worries about it getting where it shuoldn't but probably not going to last so I tried a smear of Dirko HT this time,it is high temp and oil resistant, placed it in a crescent so it does not get pushed into the aperture but away from it. Anything that did break off into the oil supply is before the oil filter so I'm not worried.
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4675/25283076507_a378570ac0_b.jpg)
![Image](https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4696/40122510182_9333fa9d14_b.jpg)
Heads next
- 937carrera
- Registered user
- Posts: 3599
- Joined: 05 Apr 2015, 19:29
- 80-90 Mem No: 16333
- Location: N Yorks.
Re: WBXmayo
Coming on nicely
Good idea on the two crescents to seal.
Without wanting to deviate from your excellent engine build thread, I used Hylomar blue many years ago on a type 4 with good results, 911's used the very expensive Loctite 574 on the crankcases etc while the modern Porsche stuff with water gubbins like the WBX are pretty much assembled with either MLS gaskets or Loctite 5900 everywhere else. Thought you might be interested.![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
![OK! :ok](./images/smilies/ok.gif)
Good idea on the two crescents to seal.
Without wanting to deviate from your excellent engine build thread, I used Hylomar blue many years ago on a type 4 with good results, 911's used the very expensive Loctite 574 on the crankcases etc while the modern Porsche stuff with water gubbins like the WBX are pretty much assembled with either MLS gaskets or Loctite 5900 everywhere else. Thought you might be interested.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
- Posts: 12427
- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: WBXmayo
937carrera wrote:Coming on nicely![]()
Good idea on the two crescents to seal.
Without wanting to deviate from your excellent engine build thread, I used Hylomar blue many years ago on a type 4 with good results, 911's used the very expensive Loctite 574 on the crankcases etc while the modern Porsche stuff with water gubbins like the WBX are pretty much assembled with either MLS gaskets or Loctite 5900 everywhere else. Thought you might be interested.
Thanks for the info
Marco Mansi uses loctite 5900 on the case but he still uses some curil T at the base of the crankcase, I think 5900 is a setting sealant, curil t is non setting.
its all about oil leaks, if a porche driver spots one drip they want the engine rebuilt.
I have used Hymolar AF on the compression seals before, when I asked the great minds of the fb WBX page they thought it was not needed but not doing any harm so I may do it again as I still have plenty left.
- itchyfeet
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- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: WBXmayo
Feb 8th I last did anything on this ... where did 3 months go?
for interest I put the heads on and measured the gap with no compression seals, then measured the compression seals and the gasket
gap 2.7mm ( with no rings)
ring 1.2mm
total gap 3.9mm ( maybe a bit less when torqued)
gasket 3.8mm
so basically pretty much all the sealant gets squished out
P1100291 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1100293 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1100294 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
for interest I put the heads on and measured the gap with no compression seals, then measured the compression seals and the gasket
gap 2.7mm ( with no rings)
ring 1.2mm
total gap 3.9mm ( maybe a bit less when torqued)
gasket 3.8mm
so basically pretty much all the sealant gets squished out
![Image](https://farm1.staticflickr.com/961/27169479437_71ed2d0fbb_b.jpg)
![Image](https://farm1.staticflickr.com/946/27169478837_464a6b6862_b.jpg)
![Image](https://farm1.staticflickr.com/908/27169478647_17579d89f3_b.jpg)
Last edited by itchyfeet on 11 May 2018, 16:50, edited 1 time in total.