laminate flooring

Post it here, if it doesn't fit any of the above.

Moderators: User administrators, Moderators

Post Reply
scottbott
Registered user
Posts: 2479
Joined: 07 Jan 2009, 20:36
80-90 Mem No: 6085
Location: Old Somerby,Grantham

laminate flooring

Post by scottbott »

can I pick anyones brains here please?,my hallway is approx 2m by 5.5 m and there is 4 doors, staircase and a radiator in it, the problem I am having is that as I come in the front door to my right is another door and the staircase, opposite the front door at the other end is the kitchen door and to the right of that is another door, the radiator is on the left hand wall, the staircase is open underneath it.Where would be the best place to start from as every side has a recess for a doorway or radiator pipes from the floor,I have done flooring before but a long time ago and it was easier shaped room and I don't want to "cock" up too much flooring as it is too expensive to waste, thanks
Nil carborundum illegitimi

NicBeeee
Registered user
Posts: 633
Joined: 12 Aug 2010, 06:57
80-90 Mem No: 8608
Location: Fairly close to Hinckley

Re: laminate flooring

Post by NicBeeee »

I personally would work from your longest wall, that way you can control the width of the planks, if your last lengths laid are only say 10mm it would be a pain and it wouldn't look good, also if you started on your right then whose to say your last planks laid on your left would be parallel to the longest and most visable wall.

Sent from my F3111 using Tapatalk
“A sure cure for seasickness is to sit under a tree.” ― Spike Milligan

1988 1.9 DG

User avatar
Oldiebut goodie
Registered user
Posts: 7259
Joined: 18 Apr 2008, 01:19
80-90 Mem No: 11135
Location: Eastern Angle

Re: laminate flooring

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

I have always started from the centre of a room that way if one wall is out of true to its opposite the angled pieces at the sides are halved and don't look as bad. Starting from a side gives one glaring angled final cut.
1.6D 2019 VW T-Cross
200hp VW T6
1̶Y̶ ̶1̶9̶8̶7̶ ̶H̶i̶-̶t̶o̶p̶ ̶C̶a̶r̶a̶v̶e̶l̶l̶e̶
5̶0̶8̶d̶ ̶M̶e̶r̶c̶

what2do
Registered user
Posts: 2824
Joined: 05 Oct 2012, 08:55
80-90 Mem No: 11974
Location: Salisbury

Re: laminate flooring

Post by what2do »

Put a chalk line down the length of the longest run, use this mark to measure either side and that'll will help you to calculate the dimensions of the 'cuts' that will be required down the sides, if you can achieve a uniform appearance along the length, great, if not do your best without having narrow strips across the thresholds as they'll not only look naff but will have a tendency to ride up. This all makes perfect sense to me but.....
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?

'89 panel van, 1.9 DG.

RogerT
Registered user
Posts: 1798
Joined: 10 May 2013, 11:59
80-90 Mem No: 13706
Location: Central Scotland

Re: laminate flooring

Post by RogerT »

I nailed a very long length of 2x2 down the length of an oddshaped room, and worked from there to fill up one side of the room, then when that side was complete and secured (with wedges against the wall where I’d removed the skirting board) I removed the batten and started from what was laid and completed the room. Didn’t have any good key wall to work from, and actually no straight wall as it was a house of some vintage, to the batten was really necessary. Chalk mark serves the purpose of a reference line but you can’t bash the joints up against a chalk mark. I’d do it that way again even in an easy room as the slight uneven-ness in all walls can knock your laminate off whack.
Have you ever seen an unhappy fool?

88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

scottbott
Registered user
Posts: 2479
Joined: 07 Jan 2009, 20:36
80-90 Mem No: 6085
Location: Old Somerby,Grantham

Re: laminate flooring

Post by scottbott »

thanks for the replies,I think I will pull the skirting off the wall and it looks my first board will have two holes cut out for the pipes!
Nil carborundum illegitimi

what2do
Registered user
Posts: 2824
Joined: 05 Oct 2012, 08:55
80-90 Mem No: 11974
Location: Salisbury

Re: laminate flooring

Post by what2do »

RogerT wrote:I nailed a very long length of 2x2 down the length of an oddshaped room, and worked from there to fill up one side of the room, then when that side was complete and secured (with wedges against the wall where I’d removed the skirting board) I removed the batten and started from what was laid and completed the room. Didn’t have any good key wall to work from, and actually no straight wall as it was a house of some vintage, to the batten was really necessary. Chalk mark serves the purpose of a reference line but you can’t bash the joints up against a chalk mark. I’d do it that way again even in an easy room as the slight uneven-ness in all walls can knock your laminate off whack.


It's laminate flooring, what's this 'bashing' that you speak of???
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?

'89 panel van, 1.9 DG.

RogerT
Registered user
Posts: 1798
Joined: 10 May 2013, 11:59
80-90 Mem No: 13706
Location: Central Scotland

Re: laminate flooring

Post by RogerT »

Some of the cheaper stuff doesn’t click together that well, but I have to say it lasted well - I was in that house for 7 years.
Have you ever seen an unhappy fool?

88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

what2do
Registered user
Posts: 2824
Joined: 05 Oct 2012, 08:55
80-90 Mem No: 11974
Location: Salisbury

Re: laminate flooring

Post by what2do »

RogerT wrote:Some of the cheaper stuff doesn’t click together that well, but I have to say it lasted well - I was in that house for 7 years.


Some of the cheaper stuff also have joins that are big enough to lose a match stick in, to be fair they've improved dramatically over the last 20 years.
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?

'89 panel van, 1.9 DG.

Post Reply