Bumpy start
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Bumpy start
Morning all yes it's us again we do apologise in advance for always asking questions but to be honest owning a 34 year old van can be scary. My macanical knowledge is getting much better thanks to the van but still not as good as you guys. Our new development which may in fact be nothing and you guys will most likely say stop worrying about things is that when we start our van on occasions it Shakes from the back as it runs almost as if the engine is trying to escape the van. As soon as we drive off its perfectly fine and ticks over like a dream has full power and runs incredibly smooth. I had a worry that it could be something in the engine we have a 1.9 petrol dg 1984 before we bought the van it had been sat for two years we have had a new fuel tank new coolent pipes back to front new fuel pump new water pump and new thermostat. We are currently having trouble with our starter but I think it may be the trigger wire which i will fix and I don't think is related to this problem thanks guys I know we may be annoying but I have never owned a vehicle this old which is in fact older then me but we absolutely love theses vans and are always willing to learn anything we can just so happens you guys are our help
1984 1.9 dg petrol westfalia joker
- DoubleOSeven
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Re: Bumpy start
I’d say this is normal. The engine does shake somewhat especially when still on choke. Horizontal ‘boxer’ pistons. The engine yeah, not the whole van?
1990 Volkswagen Transporter 2.1 Manual
2005 Porsche 911 3.6 Manual
2012 Volkswagen Polo 1.4 Automatic
2005 Porsche 911 3.6 Manual
2012 Volkswagen Polo 1.4 Automatic
- captain Byrne
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Re: Bumpy start
You might want to get the engine mounts checked just in case.
1983 LHD Westfalia poptop 1.9 DG petrol.
- bigherb
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Re: Bumpy start
It could be the choke pull down unit is not working, and the engine is being over choked.
1982 Camper 1970 1500 Beetle Various Skoda's, Ariel Arrow
Re: Bumpy start
Nothing to add to the advice already posted other than can you witness the starting up of another and compare?
Don't worry about asking questions - it's how most of us learnt (and in my case still have much to learn!).
Just don't ask what oil to put in or where to fill the screen washers though
Don't worry about asking questions - it's how most of us learnt (and in my case still have much to learn!).
Just don't ask what oil to put in or where to fill the screen washers though
1986 1.9DG WBX LPG, 4 spd manual. Westy poptop. Renogy lithium leisure. 175W solar. CR50 fridge. Propex. RX8 seats.
- a1winchester
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Re: Bumpy start
Not saying this is your issue, but...
An engine running on 3 cylinders will be very lumpy. It can be caused by a small fault in the HT leads or spark plugs / spark plug connections.
If you haven't already done so, it's worth renewing your HT leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm and spark plugs. It's a good preventative measure. Easy and cheap too.
An engine running on 3 cylinders will be very lumpy. It can be caused by a small fault in the HT leads or spark plugs / spark plug connections.
If you haven't already done so, it's worth renewing your HT leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm and spark plugs. It's a good preventative measure. Easy and cheap too.
1990 Autosleeper Trident. Water cooled 1.9L DG + 4 speed manual box
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Re: Bumpy start
All good advice ^^^^ my thoughts.
1) Have you got fast idle? when you start a 'carburetor engined' T3 you fully press down once on the accelerator pedal before starting to set the bi-metalic spring operated choke. The pig tails on these springs sometimes break off.
2) It could be running on 3 cylinders from cold, the ignition leads do have a copper core but the spark plug caps themselves do have a habit of 'shorting' the ignition to ground, easily cured by removing the metal shields with tin snips or better still, swapping the caps for NGK screw on straight Bakelite type equivalents.
3) One of more of the metalastic engine mounts has parted company (metal and rubber have separated) however, as the engine sits on its mounts you will need to jack the engine up (support with wood) to see if the bond has broken.
4) it is probably worth pointing out that these use a 'crude' choke mechanism compared to a modern engine. The idle can range from racing its head off (1400/1500rpm) to rocking and almost stalling as the choke comes fully off a tad too soon.
Martin
1) Have you got fast idle? when you start a 'carburetor engined' T3 you fully press down once on the accelerator pedal before starting to set the bi-metalic spring operated choke. The pig tails on these springs sometimes break off.
2) It could be running on 3 cylinders from cold, the ignition leads do have a copper core but the spark plug caps themselves do have a habit of 'shorting' the ignition to ground, easily cured by removing the metal shields with tin snips or better still, swapping the caps for NGK screw on straight Bakelite type equivalents.
3) One of more of the metalastic engine mounts has parted company (metal and rubber have separated) however, as the engine sits on its mounts you will need to jack the engine up (support with wood) to see if the bond has broken.
4) it is probably worth pointing out that these use a 'crude' choke mechanism compared to a modern engine. The idle can range from racing its head off (1400/1500rpm) to rocking and almost stalling as the choke comes fully off a tad too soon.
Martin
1989 California 2.1MV