Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
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Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
I just replaced the plastic PCB on my dashboard broadly following Covkid's instuctions in the Wiki;
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/VW ... _connector
I thought the PCB layout that I used might be of use/interest to others.
Note that my dash is the simplest version out there - petrol, no rev counter, no clock (although I did include the clock wiring). I also added an additional light into the dash as a spare for the future.
Just to clarify this is a view from the component (top) side of the veroboard (even though you can see the vertical tracks that would be on the underside - imagine that the board is slightly transparent).
The LED were mounted on the back of the Veroboard (i.e. on the track side, facing downwards).
Each wire from the connector arrives at the board on the bottom row (shown by the wire names on the pic)
The wires to the fuel gauge/coolant temp etc then come off the board on wires from the small black circles on the second from bottom row)
The wires to the three illumination lights come off the board on the 6 x black circles on the bottom right of the board.
The red dots are where the tracks are cut.
Note that I used an LED for the High Beam so that has a different resistor value to the original circuit.
SP1 is my spare LED that is lit when the SP1 wire is grounded - just got to think of a use for this now.
For others trying this, the most useful information on here is probably the spacing of the mounting holes and the LEDS. (Note for reference that the component holes on the veroboard are 0.1" apart) You can design the board however you like but those elements need to be spaced as shown so that they will all mount correctly into the dash.
Also its worth mentioning that the components are mounted so that they do not interfere with the various bits that stick up from the LED mounting section of the dash.
This is how it looks in the end;
(Note that the illumination lights are not connected in this pic - but the connectors can be seen on the bottom right of the board)
It seems to work really well - just need to do something about the blinding brightness of the blue LED for the High Beam.
Also finally for completeness - here is my diagram that I created by tracing the wire on the original plastic PCB that might help if you are thinking of doing something similar.
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/VW ... _connector
I thought the PCB layout that I used might be of use/interest to others.
Note that my dash is the simplest version out there - petrol, no rev counter, no clock (although I did include the clock wiring). I also added an additional light into the dash as a spare for the future.
Just to clarify this is a view from the component (top) side of the veroboard (even though you can see the vertical tracks that would be on the underside - imagine that the board is slightly transparent).
The LED were mounted on the back of the Veroboard (i.e. on the track side, facing downwards).
Each wire from the connector arrives at the board on the bottom row (shown by the wire names on the pic)
The wires to the fuel gauge/coolant temp etc then come off the board on wires from the small black circles on the second from bottom row)
The wires to the three illumination lights come off the board on the 6 x black circles on the bottom right of the board.
The red dots are where the tracks are cut.
Note that I used an LED for the High Beam so that has a different resistor value to the original circuit.
SP1 is my spare LED that is lit when the SP1 wire is grounded - just got to think of a use for this now.
For others trying this, the most useful information on here is probably the spacing of the mounting holes and the LEDS. (Note for reference that the component holes on the veroboard are 0.1" apart) You can design the board however you like but those elements need to be spaced as shown so that they will all mount correctly into the dash.
Also its worth mentioning that the components are mounted so that they do not interfere with the various bits that stick up from the LED mounting section of the dash.
This is how it looks in the end;
(Note that the illumination lights are not connected in this pic - but the connectors can be seen on the bottom right of the board)
It seems to work really well - just need to do something about the blinding brightness of the blue LED for the High Beam.
Also finally for completeness - here is my diagram that I created by tracing the wire on the original plastic PCB that might help if you are thinking of doing something similar.
1987 Westfalia Van, Petrol 2.0 AGG
- icosahedron
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Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
Thanks for sharing.
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Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
Vorsprung Durch Technik my ar$e!
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Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
Bliddy heck, that's good presentation
What software did you use to do both the block diagram and the circuit diagram ?
What software did you use to do both the block diagram and the circuit diagram ?
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Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
ghost123uk wrote:Bliddy heck, that's good presentation
What software did you use to do both the block diagram and the circuit diagram ?
Thanks
Block diagram was just done in powerpoint.
The circuit diagram was done on something called 'DIY Layout Creator' that I found on the interweb - http://www.diylc.org
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Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
MidLifeCrisis wrote: Block diagram was just done in powerpoint.
Flip, that must have taken you ages I would have thought, really well done I say
MidLifeCrisis wrote: The circuit diagram was done on something called 'DIY Layout Creator' that I found on the interweb - http://www.diylc.org
I'll have a go at that
Got to be a wiki candidate this has, Harry, where are you (is it just HarryMann that does the main wiki entries ?)
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Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
Nice work, many thanks for sharing
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Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
Added to my WIKI on hardwiring. Worth adding LED sockets as I did - saves messing if one needs replacing/swapping later. The blue LED can be dipped in black paint. Works a treat. Either that or feed it into original cap that was on bulb (if you can still find it). As I noted once before, the reason VW used a white bulb and a dark blue plastic cap was because blue LEDs hadn't been invented. You can get the original bulb ofcourse but then why would you given the longer lifespan of LEDs.
Last edited by CovKid on 14 Feb 2014, 16:59, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
Yeah - I tried using some sockets that I had but couldn't get the LED legs to stick in them properly.CovKid wrote:Worth adding LED sockets as I did - saves messing if one needs replacing later.
So in the end I gave in and soldered them figuring that LEDs last for ages and it wouldn't be the worst job in the world to unsolder and stick in a new one in I had to ...
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Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
CovKid wrote:Worth adding LED sockets as I did.
I'm in the middle of doing this project but am struggling to source sockets for the LEDs. Are you able to point me in the right direction?
Jonathan
A Camper called Wanda
1983 A reg Bilbo Marlfield conversion, 1900 Diesel 1Y engine
A Camper called Wanda
1983 A reg Bilbo Marlfield conversion, 1900 Diesel 1Y engine
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Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
Well, if memory serves me right, they're not specifically for LEDs but are just 2-pin veroboard sockets. Maplins do them.
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Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
GoWesty now sell a kit too.
Admittedly it's costly but better than risking buying another duff one. Plug and play too.
http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details. ... parent_id=
Nice to see solutions to a problem that seems to be creeping up on us all as these vans get older.
Admittedly it's costly but better than risking buying another duff one. Plug and play too.
http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details. ... parent_id=
Nice to see solutions to a problem that seems to be creeping up on us all as these vans get older.
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Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
Ouch that's a premium priceposhbuggers wrote:GoWesty now sell a kit too.
Admittedly it's costly but better than risking buying another duff one. Plug and play too.
http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details. ... parent_id=
Nice to see solutions to a problem that seems to be creeping up on us all as these vans get older.
Jonathan
A Camper called Wanda
1983 A reg Bilbo Marlfield conversion, 1900 Diesel 1Y engine
A Camper called Wanda
1983 A reg Bilbo Marlfield conversion, 1900 Diesel 1Y engine
Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
Any idea if the diesel cluster and petrol are basically the same? Mine is 85 and has no rev counter, no clock, just speedo, fuel and temp really.
Maybe its time to learn some soldering skills
Maybe its time to learn some soldering skills
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Re: Replacing the dashboard plastic PCB
MattBW wrote:Any idea if the diesel cluster and petrol are basically the same? Mine is 85 and has no rev counter, no clock, just speedo, fuel and temp really.
Maybe its time to learn some soldering skills
Basically the same yes but some slight differences as diesel will also have glow plug led. I know on the early ones without clock the has the clock tracks and terminals - just no clock to connect them too.
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