Rustoration

For documenting and technical details of T25 restorations and major repairs
This section is for major restorations only.where to buy a panel or where to buy window rubbers belong in the bodywork seats and glass section.
Also please note,we need pictures of the restorations,without them posts are pretty useless.[\b]
Picture heavy and detailed threads , not for general banter or advertising
Traders welcome to post but not to advertise blatently
Threads will be cleaned of chit chat.

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bigbadbob76
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Re: Rustoration

Post by bigbadbob76 »

RogerT wrote:Went to remove my hub nut so as to get the assembly off the swing arm. Bent my 1/2” breaker bar. Ordered a 3/4” sliding T-bar instead.

I did similar.
Bent my slider bar, broke the square off my breaker bar, welded the slider onto my breaker, bent my 6ft pipe, straightened it and welded in a strengthener, bent it again.
ended up welding the big socket to a scaffold bar. Finally got the hubs off. phew.
'86 1.9 DG, 4 spd, tintop, camper conversion.
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RogerT
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Re: Rustoration

Post by RogerT »

mshaw1980 wrote:Scaffold pole over your breaker bar :-)

Yup, that’s how I bent it! Hence fatter bar needed...
Have you ever seen an unhappy fool?

88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

RogerT
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Re: Rustoration

Post by RogerT »

multisi wrote:You could remove hub assembly by undoing the 4 big bolts that hold it on to the swing arm without undoing the hub nut , ive done it with a carefully positioned ring spanner and used a trolley jack to do the work. Drive shaft can be undone at the gearbox end and pulls through the swing arm.

Looked at that option first, but those bolt heads are too degraded to cope with anything but a hammered on socket. I think that’s what I had to do last time.
Have you ever seen an unhappy fool?

88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

RogerT
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Re: Rustoration

Post by RogerT »

bigbadbob76 wrote:
RogerT wrote:Went to remove my hub nut so as to get the assembly off the swing arm. Bent my 1/2” breaker bar. Ordered a 3/4” sliding T-bar instead.

I did similar.
Bent my slider bar, broke the square off my breaker bar, welded the slider onto my breaker, bent my 6ft pipe, straightened it and welded in a strengthener, bent it again.
ended up welding the big socket to a scaffold bar. Finally got the hubs off. phew.

Having done it before, I’m hoping for a bit less of an epic than that! But it’s good to know I have options...
Have you ever seen an unhappy fool?

88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

RogerT
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Re: Rustoration

Post by RogerT »

3/4” set arrived!
Image
Size matters...
Image

Later, much later...
Image
The drum was very reluctant to come off, and the the bolt securing the brake cylinder put up a spirited resistance, but I did what I set out to do!


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Have you ever seen an unhappy fool?

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RogerT
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Re: Rustoration

Post by RogerT »

Started on the swing arm pivot bolts. Cut the head off the outer one, and started belting away with a heavy hammer on th end of the bolt. Futile! Cut the bolt on the inside face of the mount with a hacksaw. Less access on the inner side of the outer bolt. Any handy tips? The inner bolt, haven’t investigated much but limited access Manx the water pipes are unhandily close by.

Wonder if some kind of power saw would be handy? Jigsaw or I’ve a Scorpion saw too... I’ll investigate the forum and wiki.
Have you ever seen an unhappy fool?

88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

RogerT
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Re: Rustoration

Post by RogerT »

Reciprocating saw with carbide blade seems to be easiest (not cheapest). Hacksaw blade is cheapest. Bush insert is case hardened so prob won’t cut with hacksaw, and there is a possible risk if cutting the bolt that I would cut away a bit of the swing arm mount when going up the end of th bush insert. I’ll go to my tool shop tomorrow, weather permitting.
Have you ever seen an unhappy fool?

88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

RogerT
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Re: Rustoration

Post by RogerT »

On a more gruesome note, here are some picks of my bodged swing arm mount.
Image

Top view, showing plate welded on top and down the inside face.
Image


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RogerT
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Re: Rustoration

Post by RogerT »

After 2 nights work I got my swing arm off last night. A bit difficult, but the inner bolt did at least turn round.
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88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

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bigbadbob76
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Re: Rustoration

Post by bigbadbob76 »

Good work Roger. Hope it all goes a bit smoother for you now.

RogerT
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Re: Rustoration

Post by RogerT »

I can start cutting more rust out, not sure if that counts as getting a bit smoother... :roll:
Have you ever seen an unhappy fool?

88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

RogerT
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Re: Rustoration

Post by RogerT »

Cleaned my local Screwfix out of thin cutting disks on Wednesday. (Imagine that, I have a local Screwfix! I’ll have to find a tool shop locally though, got one near work, but not near home yet.)
Have you ever seen an unhappy fool?

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mshaw1980
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Re: Rustoration

Post by mshaw1980 »

I was replacing my swing arm mount when removing my rear offside swing arm so didn't matter if I damaged the mount. Was not easy to get out and the outer bolt and insert was seized solid inside the arm. Had to cut the bush rubber to get it out. Did you manage to use the thin cutting discs without damaging the arm or mount? It's not easy and my angle grinder nearly caught me out a few times when it 'kicked'. Not an easy job. Well done Sir.
I hate rust now. It's great though when you cut it out and replace with nice new steel.
1987 VW T25: Subaru EJ20 using RJES parts (If it was meant to go fast it wouldn't be brick shaped!)

RogerT
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Re: Rustoration

Post by RogerT »

Got the arm off with a combination of thin cutting discs up the inside face of the swing arm mounts from underneath, and hacksaw from above. Outer bolt was seized solid of course, but I managed to turn the inner one and so do it all with the disc. Kept the inner swing arm mount in good nick, but it does need a good clean up before being used again. Chopped up the outer mount to give better access for cutting.

Removed the bushes. Think my arm is scrap...
Image

Cut out the panel above the rear arch.

Nothing too surprising...
Image
Image
Image

And pulled off the side cover...
Image

Next, I guess is a card template for the inner arch material that needs to be replaced before cutting off (breaking off?) the outer arch.

Need to get an 8mm spot weld drill, as the one I got is 6mm, and a bit wee for the spot welds.

Then remove the remains of those panels round the C post, cut out the rust at the base of the C post, and B post, remove inner and outer sill.

I don’t want to think ahead any further than that... :(



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mshaw1980
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Re: Rustoration

Post by mshaw1980 »

Rear jacking point never looks good when you open it up but be good when you weld the new one in. Nice and solid. Shame about your control arm, they're expensive.
1987 VW T25: Subaru EJ20 using RJES parts (If it was meant to go fast it wouldn't be brick shaped!)

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