Club 80-90 Forums

bigbadbob76 wrote: Yes please and thanks Paul, yes a spare cover would be good for pressure testing.

post it tomorrow with luck you get it Wednesday
Are you tempted by the oring mod for the pump body? can chuck in a few o rings if you are?

Dirko HT works on the nuts used it before, its oil resistant

o rings get compression set if compressed too much there is a reccomended %age compression.

I was told by a reputable engineer just today, that you should put the cover gasket on dry and the oil in the groove will wet it and expand it. sounds plausible to me.

yep pretty much what I was told and wrote above.

itchyfeet wrote: I was told it was to keep the paper gasket 'wet'

Thanks Paul.
I'm in danger of becoming oil pressure obsessive so yes please on the o rings if you have plenty. (I think you said in another thread that you bought 100)

Got the cover and o rings today thanks Paul. I'll do some pressure tests once my 65x1.5 o rings arrive. Your bs038 rings fit if i give the cover a wiggle to bed them into the groove but i'll keep them for the pump body if i go down that rabbit hole.

I fitted a x piece to my oil pressure adapter tonight-



And added a black pressure switch i had going spare. I might even wire it in at some point. Possibly with a buzzer silencer switch in the green wire.

Comparing my manual gauge with my electric one shows the lecky one reads low at the upper end of the scale. Not bad at 2k but reads 3 bar at a true 4 bar. I've checked the manual one against a calibrated one at work and it's within a few psi of being bang on.

I also checked my ignition timing as i'd had a couple of pops when over-running. It was well retarded so i gave it a tweak back to 5*
Dunno if it had moved or if it was bedding in.

While i was at it i stuck three 200ohm resistors in parallel across my coolant temp terminals and it shows good so a new sender should sort that. ( if it ever gets here)






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Bob, did you buy your stainless coolant pipe? If not, might be worth keeping an eye on this:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 3326410147" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks for the heads up 300CE.
I did get the stainless pipe but there's plenty of bits there that are worth bidding on.
If he'd been selling it a few weeks ago I'd have had his engine too.

I got my temperature gauge sender today so fitted that (and got a coolant shower) so at least I know how hot it's getting now.
I tested the old one in just-boiled water and it was reading 25K ohms so it's definately had it, I'd expect 100 ohms or less.

Also got the 65x1.5mm viton 'o' rings for the oil pump cover today, I'll sacrifice one for pressure testing but it looks like a good fit allready-



The amount of squish looks better than the 1.78mm ones, the ring isn't getting as distorted as the 1.78mm one was, I'll pressure test it at work with Paul's cover tomorrow.

Looking at getting the cover off my pump with the engine in.... it's going to be a bit of work to get the cover off, pulleys and stainless pipe will have to come off as well as the engine mounts, carriers etc. I think it can wait till after our Yorkshire trip, it's only a drip but it's bugging me.

bigbadbob76 wrote:I think it can wait till after our Yorkshire trip, it's only a drip but it's bugging me.

yep need to get the balance right, it's camping season, not much work going on here.

Thinking about my electric oil pressure gauge, i'm sure it was ok when i wired it in the engine bay to test it.
I suspect my yellow wire is a bit high resistance, it's old and has probably absorbed moisture.
Assuming high pressure = low resitance from the sender, then any resistance in the wire will show up at higher pressures.
Not so easy to run a new wire from engine bay to dash though.

You can verify by setting the revs with a brick on the accelerator, then look at/ take a pic of both at different revs.

running a new multicore cable underneath is quite easy then you have plenty of spare conductors.

(oil pressure better now with 15w50 and o ring)
P1100002 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

My low tech solution to fixed throttle is a block of wood or wedged torque wrench

Here's the spec for a VDO oil sender, 10-184 ohm.https://vdo-webshop.nl/en/pressure-send ... r-m18.html

You could perhaps measure resistance at the sender and the gauge to see to what extent they are different, and also at different oil pressures using your mechanical gauge to validate the reading.?

itchyfeet wrote:running a new multicore cable underneath is quite easy then you have plenty of spare conductors.

Good plan, I was thinking single core, but multicore would be easier and handy.

937carrera wrote:Here's the spec for a VDO oil sender,

Cheers, that shows sender resistance increases with pressure so my yellow wire resistance should have less effect at higher pressures, hmmm.... just cheap gauge syndrome maybe, although it's the same one as you have Paul.
I'll do some resistance checks on mine.

I've done the pressure test on my spare oil pump with 65x1.5mm O ring and Paul's cover.
Passes the 6 bar test no problem.
I assume the oil that creeps around the cover nuts comes from the sump as the studs are not in blind holes and it creeps up the thread? or am I talking through mine?

I'll throw some 15W50 in at the next oil change and see how that goes.
In the meantime I'll put some tape over my pressure gauge so I don't keep staring at it and just get on with it.

bigbadbob76 wrote:

itchyfeet wrote:running a new multicore cable underneath is quite easy then you have plenty of spare conductors.

Good plan, I was thinking single core, but multicore would be easier and handy.

my method, cable tie it to loom then across tank and keep going , drop spare wheel and you can drill a hole through the gromet, cable tie out tye way of fan, it then comes through under heater panel

i used conduit on the tin top but didn't bother on the pop top.

P1020855 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1020861 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

bigbadbob76 wrote: I assume the oil that creeps around the cover nuts comes from the sump as the studs are not in blind holes and it creeps up the thread? or am I talking through mine?

Yep, piccy for posterity, handy having one in bits

937carrera wrote: handy having one in bits

when you have 5 in bits and a rebuilt spare you start to think you might have a problem

One is a problem, two's a problem halved, five is definately an obsession.
Did you use 7 core trailer cable Paul?

Cheers for the pic Carrera. I seem to remember loktite being mentioned in one of the Itchylinks for sealing the stud threads. I might try that when the time comes.

bigbadbob76 wrote: Did you use 7 core trailer cable Paul?

.

no, I bought some 8 core 0.5mm2 but if trailer cable is 0.5mm that will be fine