Not a restoration.

[itchyfeet]

no the retainer is not in the calc, yes you need one assuming it's a late engine with a B suffix case

ideally you go for 0.07 because you often find there is more than you think, the clutch presses quite hard did you press hard enough?


if you change the thrust washer you will no longer need 3x 0.4 shims but you have to buy a pair and then you need to measure up again, normally you don't need this much the thrust washer is worn, having a new thrust washer and thinner shims give you more options if there is still too much play.

your existing 0.4 shim may not be 0.4 any more either.

it's your choice.

[itchyfeet]

Quick question BBB I assume this engine was in the van when you bought it any idea of how many miles it did with those studs?

[bigbadbob76]

Thanks yet again Paul.
Yes, mine's a B suffix.
Cheers for the hint about the thrust washers, I'll put them on the list.
I put the engine on the bench, pulley end down, with the weight on the pulley and pushed down on the case, then propped up the case on the bench with the pulley clear and pushed down on the flywheel for the second measurement. I measured with feeler guges between my jig and the flywheel and took the difference.

Yes, it was in the van when I bought it, I've put over 5000 miles on it, havn't a clue how many miles the PO put on it, don't think she did big milage as she was scared of driving on the mainland and tended to stay on Lewis.
Judging by the low amount of carbon in the heads I'd say it's not done a lot.

I've given the cases their 2nd clean, at least another clean and flush needed.
I tried picking at the helicoils and can't get the top coil to pop out or even move at all, also noted that some holes have 2 inserts,
one inside the other.
I'm starting to doubt that they ARE helicoils, they look like em but don't act like em.

[937carrera]

Can you upload a photo of the thread inserts ?

Seen this ? http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/cn ... ts-175883/

I've only had to remove a couple when they didn't go in satisfactorily - just wound the lower tang anti clockwise, of course that was before I had broken it off.

[itchyfeet]

I put the engine on the bench, pulley end down, with the weight on the pulley

probably buggered the pulley, they are weak once bent they kill pumps alts and belts

[bigbadbob76]

Here's the inserts, any comments welcome.
My usual method involves picking out the top coil, bending it inwards and using the needle nosed pliers to wind it out, unless, as you say you havn't knocked the tang off. drilling them out would be a no-no as they are stainless in aluminium.





And the oil pump, looks pretty badly scored but clearance between teeth and case is 0.05-0.1mm
Clearance between teeth where they meet is approx 0.1mm.









Bugger if I've bent the pulley but I have worse problems.

[itchyfeet]

as you say helicoils pull out easily, pick out the end with a small screwdriver and grab with thin nose pliers and wind out

[bigbadbob76]

I tried picking at the helicoils and can't get the top coil to pop out or even move at all, also noted that some holes have 2 inserts,
one inside the other.
I'm starting to doubt that they ARE helicoils, they look like em but don't act like em.

This probably got lost in the mush. so much going on at the moment I'd be amazed if anyone can make sense of my ramblings.

[937carrera]

They do look like helicoils, except that the second and subsequent threads looks smaller than the lead thread, at least from the resolution of the pictures.

Do you have an 11mm drill bit, preferably cobalt ?

I'd be tempted to try and slowly drill the thread repair to weaken it and make it easier to pick out. Use cutting fluid if you can. An M12 helicoil kit has a 10.4mm drill, while the minimum diameter of an M12 thread is about 11.9mm

[itchyfeet]

Hang on don't get the drill out yet, there is a counter bore in the case before the thread starts it looks like the last turn of the helicoil is sitting in the counterbore and not in the thread, surely you can move it just need to try again.

[937carrera]

We'll let you have another look at the thread repair removal again., looks like a small jewellers screwdrivers may allow you to get the top thread, but in one of the photos it almost looks as though there is only a semi circle of a top hat, rather than the first spiral of a coil ??

I've now had a look at your oil pump pictures and cross checked to the type 4 rebuild thread I linked above. A few thoughts:

• The edges of the gears look pretty mullered
• I assume you measured the lash / wear using feeler gauges, that's the "wrong way" apparently as the gears tilt and overstate the measurement
• Just comparing your oil pump against the one being rebuilt your .1mm is 40 thou, which is less than the 64 thou being measured with a dial gauge. But, the visible gap in yours looks larger

As the crank is fine obvious places for loss of oil pressure are worn bearings and oil pump. Tappets can be replaced with the engine in situ so you always have that option of doing those afterwards if you don't do them now. Brickwerks sell new oil pumps for the WBX and at £33 it would seem to be silly not to put a new one in - providing the Schadek pumps for the WBX are good quality, no mods are needed and the oil pressure relief arrangement still works correctly. Care to comment Itchy ?

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... 3-wbx.html

By the way, the type 4 engine rebuild thread has instructions on honing and getting the cross hatch pattern as close to factory as possible, just before the oil pump bit posted on 27th April. Tells me you're better off doing the bore hone yourself rather than taking to an engineer, though you'll need to inspect the one barrel with the scratch in more closely I think

[bigbadbob76]

And they're out. I was being too carefull. Haha. A sharp screwdriver hammered down the side of the first thread got it to stick out enough to grip with the needle noses.
A quick check with a tap proves they are M12x1.5.

[937carrera]

Nice early start for you today then

[bigbadbob76]

Aye, up and at it after walking the dog and feeding the wife.
Pump does look like it's had a handfull of sand through it. I've ordered the VWH studs and about to put a BW order in too now i know what i need.

Will order a honing tool too and check back on that samba thread. Cheers.

The wallet is taking a battering but at least I know it will be good when done.

Here's the score on the bore from the broken ring.

[937carrera]

How deep is the gouge, if you hone it out can you measure the bore afterwards to make sure it's still in spec. Difficult to tell from the picture resolution but it doesn't appear too bad. Maybe you can pick up a single good one somewhere ?

I suspect some debris was passed through the oil pump before it was rebuilt last time. Putting a duff oil pump back has been false economy (for you). Looking at the shell bearings or assembly method do you think the case was split before. I'm suspecting not. I believe stretch / TTY con rod bolts were standard VW fitment at the time.

Might be worth putting your shopping list up, just so if there are some advisable / non obvious items you can get them ordered first time around and avoid delays / double postage costs to your bit of the world.