VW Speedshop Burton ss exhaust

[CJH]

After a bit of fettling I've managed to adjust the cover plate so that the edge sits just below the lip of the cylinder head, so it no longer touches the J-pipe. The gap between the J-pipe and the head is still very tight (around 1mm), but everything around there is quite rigid so I don't think that gap is going to change. I'm happy now that I'm not going to wear a hole in the exhaust.

Now to check the other side.

[silverbullet]

I have had no problems with using the Speedshop pipes and MRB pushrod covers.

[CJH]

Thanks Ian - do you recall the J-pipe being so close to the head?

[silverbullet]

Yes they are tight. I wouldnt worry, stainless expands quite bit when hot so it will only move away from the head. Never had a buzz or rattle.

[scottbott]

mine are still fitted and I have that exhaust,will have a look tomorrow,pretty sure mine is not as tight as yours as I reckon I would have noticed it and been concerned as well,mine was fitted at campershack at the same time as a conversion to lpg there and Andrew would have mentioned it

[CJH]

Thanks Scottbott

I'm happier now that I've made the first side fit better. The second side is similar, but the gap is probably 1mm wider (twice as wide!) and didn't need any fettling at all.

I got carried away with my trial fitting last night. I do like what all that shiny curly pipework does to the look of the engine

[silverbullet]

Tiled workshop?!! Reminds me of visiting the old McLaren works down Boundary road in the TAG turbo days

(I was still in short trousers, green cap, badges etc)

[CJH]

Tiled workshop?!!

That's right. I keep this place like an operating theatre!

Yeah right.

Nope - utility room. All the dirty work was done in the garage, but now I can't move in there so all the clean assembly work is happening in the warm.

[CJH]

I was hoping that since I'm using a Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate, rather than the original 2.1 interwarmer, I might be able to squeeze the proper oil filter in, but it's still too tight:



There's only a few mm in it though. In fact, if I could get the filter square onto the spigot it would fit, with 6-8mm spare between the exhaust and the end of the filter:



It's tempting to cut a few mm off the end of the spigot, as it's more than long enough to hold the filter. I know I'd always have problems starting the filter after cutting the end of the thread off though.



The alternative is the Polo filter, which is much shorter, and as noted, has a different bypass pressure.

[ghost123uk]

Cut a bit off the thread and clean it up with a nut (or a proper die) = it will be fine

[CJH]

I think you're right - I'll give it a try. I can always replace the spigot if I mess it up.

[ghost123uk]

I usually find a nut (I have a right bid OCD collection ) that fits and put it on first, then, as you wind it off, it tidies up the thread (I am sure you knew that )

[CJH]

Yes, thanks for the reminder. I'm not sure I've got a nut that's big enough though. My collection is, let's say, 'pending classification'. Could take a while to sort through.

[silverbullet]

Thread is 3/4" UNF. I wouldn't worry about the filter bypass pressure thing, I am convinced that its only cause for concern in arctic conditions or if the oil is reduced to black treacle.
Is the Polo supposed to pass at higher or lower pressure than the 719/12? I honestly can't remember the figures for either...

[scottbott]

stuck my head under the van today and I can put my fingers between the exhaust and the end of the pushrod cover easily